I've had the same cheap blue plastic solder sucker since I started building a couple of years ago. Over the past couple of builds, I've noticed that if I make a mistake (and I have made a number lately), the trace comes off when I use the sucker. I don't remember this being as much of a problem when I got this tool. Is this something that needs replaced from time to time? Should I invest in a better quality one? Is it my technique?
The good news is that I've become very adept at using trace wire to connect components when I do burn out a pad or two :).
I would never say your technique is wrong but I will share my methods:
first thing I will say is that if we're talking resistors, caps, etc that are easily replaced ... I clip them the hell out before I desolder so I'm only having to work with the leads.
if I'm dealing with single side pcbs, I prefer to use solder wick only. everything else, I use the spring loaded solder sucker. I use the bulb one for blowing air into a through-hole and only if I have some trouble getting the solder to move out of the hole (almost always overly thick amplifier pcbs). I haven't got one of those nice rework guns yet but I've been eyeballing the cheaper chinese hakko clones on ebay.
so let's talk solder ... if the solder is vintage or RoHS, I add liquid flux and new lead solder. this gets things moving and transfers heat better. if you start having trouble keeping things moving, reapply small amounts of new solder and flux.
pacing ... its better to get a little at a time and to let things cool off in-between. throw things in the freezer if you're impatient.
once you've got the majority of it with the solder sucker, its easier to clean the pads with the wick. do not get forceful with leads, they should move freely on their own and not require any pressure or manipulation from you. if you're leaving your parts intact, use gravity as your friend if you can. I tend to work from a vise or helping hands so that's not an issue for me, but if you're using blu-tac or laying the pcb on the table you won't get the free work from gravity.
also, the iron's tip is going to get dirty quickly doing rework so I can't stress enough that you have to keep it clean and freshly tinned.(this also gives things a chance to cool)
Interesting. I think I was doing well with the solder sucker, but I didn't use a wick to take off the last little bit and open the hole up the entire way. Instead, I was using the sucker and I think pulled the pads off the board. It sounds like some wick may be a good investment then!
My technique is to grab the component with needle nose pliers. Heat up the other side with soldering iron. It should come out very easily.
Then use a solder wick to clean out the rest. I always tin my iron to help the wick do it's thing.
For the stubborn ones I have a sharp thin pokey thing I bought at a local electronics store. . Heat up one side push that thing on the other side to open up the hole. And one more pass with the wick.
After you pull out the lead from the hole, a toothpick is your best friend.
No need to suck the solder out since you will be applying more there to the new components. Just heat up the pad, push the toothpick through to create an opening, and since the toothpick is wood it will pull right out. Then just slide the new component in and use the existing solder that's pushed out to resolder
After I remove the component and wicked til it just won't, I heat up the eye and just blow real hard, usually opens it right up.
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Ok, I've been doing this wrong then. Wick and toothpicks will be bought soon. Thanks! This place is the best community.
I do pretty much everything with wick only. I love those fancy guns but much cheaper not to make a mistake. 😁😜. Would that I could.
Smokingman's response is pretty much dead nuts and quite elegantly stated.
One thing you might want to watch for is that your tip isn't too hot. That is probably the biggest factor in my experience. Once you get much beyond 750f it gets a lot easier to lift a pad or trace. It doesn't do great things for the solder in the joint either. A lot depends on the quality of the pcb too.
I like the toothpick idea, haven't tried that.
Quote from: peAk on May 24, 2017, 12:21:27 PM
After you pull out the lead from the hole, a toothpick is your best friend.
No need to suck the solder out since you will be applying more there to the new components. Just heat up the pad, push the toothpick through to create an opening, and since the toothpick is wood it will pull right out. Then just slide the new component in and use the existing solder that's pushed out to resolder
You can also do this with a stainless steel dental pick -- Smallbear carry these in their Tools section.
IIRC, circuit boards are only rated for so much heat for so long before they start to lift traces.
I always try to avoid making mistakes ;D. I always use the DMM to check all resistors and caps, and double check with BOM/schematic. This makes a soldering a slow process, but it is the part of building I enjoy most, so it's a win-win.
If I need to change a part, I follow a similar strategy as @bsoncini : remove part first, and clean out with solder wick (I usually use the solder wick first, quickly, to remove some excess solder). Allow the board to cool down in between heating. I vaguely remember lifting a pad once, but generally, this works well for me.
I'm a wimp. I use a vacuum-powered desoldering gun. ;D
I use a vacuum desoldering gun too, but often it's just faster to grab the cheap spring loaded pump.
I'll have to try the stainless pick idea, sometimes even with a vacuum, wick, pump, fresh solder there are pads which just won't cooperate.
Quote from: WormBoy on May 25, 2017, 12:44:01 AM
I always try to avoid making mistakes ;D. I always use the DMM to check all resistors and caps, and double check with BOM/schematic. This makes a soldering a slow process, but it is the part of building I enjoy most, so it's a win-win.
If I need to change a part, I follow a similar strategy as @bsoncini : remove part first, and clean out with solder wick (I usually use the solder wick first, quickly, to remove some excess solder). Allow the board to cool down in between heating. I vaguely remember lifting a pad once, but generally, this works well for me.
I am pretty meticulous at checking parts/bom, but sometimes mistakes happen. They also normally happen in bunches, and I appear to be in one of those bunches.
Quote from: culturejam on May 25, 2017, 04:51:11 AM
I'm a wimp. I use a vacuum-powered desoldering gun. ;D
I've been looking at those, because I am also a wimp. Do you have an expensive one? I know there's a Hakko that costs around $300, but that's a little out of my reasonable price range at the moment.
After a run of having bad luck desoldering... If it's a resistor, I'll cut the part off on top, and then solder the new resistor using the old solder joints. It looks ugly, but saves time.
Quote from: alanp on May 24, 2017, 10:37:23 PM
You can also do this with a stainless steel dental pick -- Smallbear carry these in their Tools section.
I find a stainless steel dental pick endlessly useful for electronics but also use it doing metal work and woodworking. A must have piece of steel in the shop.
dave
Quote from: Timko on May 25, 2017, 07:54:12 AM
Do you have an expensive one? I know there's a Hakko that costs around $300, but that's a little out of my reasonable price range at the moment.
I have an older Hakko one. They are not cheap, but man do they save time (and PCBs and components!).
The newest Hakko is $259 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM69C4?ie=UTF8&tag=tightcamera-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B00KWM69C4) but I think at that price it doesn't include a stand.
I see now that there is a clone of the older version I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RKDKND?psc=1
And there is a big-ass station for pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABJ4AEC?ie=UTF8&tag=tightcamera-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B00ABJ4AEC
Damn, and other one: https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Station-Digital-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00KQ6PR6K/ref=pd_sbs_469_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KQ6PR6K&pd_rd_r=WZYM84D30VG42ZJFVTY3&pd_rd_w=CAPYT&pd_rd_wg=JJrxB&psc=1&refRID=WZYM84D30VG42ZJFVTY3
Apparently there are a lot of cheaper options now. No idea if they are any good, but hey!
Quote from: culturejam on May 25, 2017, 04:37:41 PM
Quote from: Timko on May 25, 2017, 07:54:12 AM
Do you have an expensive one? I know there's a Hakko that costs around $300, but that's a little out of my reasonable price range at the moment.
I have an older Hakko one. They are not cheap, but man do they save time (and PCBs and components!).
The newest Hakko is $259 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM69C4?ie=UTF8&tag=tightcamera-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B00KWM69C4) but I think at that price it doesn't include a stand.
I see now that there is a clone of the older version I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RKDKND?psc=1
And there is a big-ass station for pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABJ4AEC?ie=UTF8&tag=tightcamera-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B00ABJ4AEC
Damn, and other one: https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Station-Digital-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00KQ6PR6K/ref=pd_sbs_469_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KQ6PR6K&pd_rd_r=WZYM84D30VG42ZJFVTY3&pd_rd_w=CAPYT&pd_rd_wg=JJrxB&psc=1&refRID=WZYM84D30VG42ZJFVTY3
Apparently there are a lot of cheaper options now. No idea if they are any good, but hey!
I have that S-993A solder sucker iron in the second link.
It works pretty good, just don't store it hot with the nose down like they show in the picture.
I clamp mine nose up in a small bench vise when I'm using it.
In use, I try to have the board or whatever vertical and try to *never* point the nose down, always horizontal or tipped back a bit.
I got mine a bit cheaper on ebay, tons of them there, pick where you want it shipped from.
Most of them from China but a few in NorAm.
The nature of it, makes it a fairly high maintenance tool.
The heater burned out in mine after 16 months of moderate to heavy use. (lots of modding and repair jobs)
Parts are available including the heater.
Fixed mine.... still going.... It has been the best/easiest de-soldering device I have ever used. (never owned a Hakko)
It's my "go-to" tool for de-soldering, but I still use other methods as well, sometimes....
HTH
Edit; I was really bummed when the heater quit.
Very glad to get a repair part, but I would have bought another if the heater had not been available.
Did I mention that I *like* this tool. :)
Quote from: galaxiex on May 25, 2017, 05:57:43 PM
I have that S-993A solder sucker iron in the second link.
It works pretty good, just don't store it hot with the nose down like they show in the picture.
I clamp mine nose up in a small bench vise when I'm using it.
In use, I try to have the board or whatever vertical and try to *never* point the nose down, always horizontal or tipped back a bit.
What's with not having it point down? Never had an issue with the old Hakko it's a clone of. I keep it in the holster while hot but not immediately being used. But honestly, I only have it on for maybe 10-15 minutes at a go. It's so fast to use that I get my work done and turn it off.
Quote from: galaxiexI got mine a bit cheaper on ebay, tons of them there, pick where you want it shipped from.
Most of them from China but a few in NorAm.
These days, I find the stuff on ebay and then see if there is an Amazon seller (preferably Prime). I'll pay an extra $20 bucks for no-hassle returns and free return shipping (for the DOA stuff). I call it "the Amazon tax". Totally worth it to me.
I have a pretty neat one at work...
(http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx219/nzCdog/IMG_20170526_141655_zps8fh3j8da.jpg) (http://s757.photobucket.com/user/nzCdog/media/IMG_20170526_141655_zps8fh3j8da.jpg.html)
It really does save pcbs from damage, in some situations there's no better alternative.
But most of the time I just use a hold desolder pump, its just faster. :)
And back to your original question (after I'm done showing off ::) )
The pumps just wear out. I've used quite a few, they all wear out, expensive and cheap alike. These motorised desolderer station tools like the Hakko require constant cleaning and pricey consumables. It's par for the course.
My favourite hand desolder pump to use was an Edsyn, but it broke prematurely so I only get cheapo ones now.
Quote from: culturejam on May 25, 2017, 07:08:38 PM
Quote from: galaxiex on May 25, 2017, 05:57:43 PM
I have that S-993A solder sucker iron in the second link.
It works pretty good, just don't store it hot with the nose down like they show in the picture.
I clamp mine nose up in a small bench vise when I'm using it.
In use, I try to have the board or whatever vertical and try to *never* point the nose down, always horizontal or tipped back a bit.
What's with not having it point down? Never had an issue with the old Hakko it's a clone of. I keep it in the holster while hot but not immediately being used. But honestly, I only have it on for maybe 10-15 minutes at a go. It's so fast to use that I get my work done and turn it off.
Quote from: galaxiexI got mine a bit cheaper on ebay, tons of them there, pick where you want it shipped from.
Most of them from China but a few in NorAm.
These days, I find the stuff on ebay and then see if there is an Amazon seller (preferably Prime). I'll pay an extra $20 bucks for no-hassle returns and free return shipping (for the DOA stuff). I call it "the Amazon tax". Totally worth it to me.
I found having it point down, it tends to clog more often, needing more frequent cleaning.
Sometimes (often) I am modding an existing amp or other device and am swapping out parts to try ideas etc.
The solder sucker gets left on for quite long periods of time.
If left nose down it really does get clogged easily.
Ya, I prefer Amazon too, but at the time I bought this, there were none on Amazon (Canada) except for the Hakko at approx $300 CAD
so I turned to ebay to find something cheaper since I didn't know how much use I would get out of it.
Now I see how useful it is, if it ever breaks again, I *might* go for the more expensive brand name.
These are tiny little beasts i can't imagine ever wearing out, you get another good size length of silicone tubing (i wonder where i put it0, to replace the tip As needed.
Bought mine here as it was Canada friendly.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1597
(https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1597-00.jpg)
dave
Is that thing metal?
Machined aluminum, an object of beauty, makes you feel all warm a fuzzy. Reasonably priced to boot.
dave
I used to have one of these years ago and it was great but not suited to heavy use. Mine burnt out and the barrel snapped. Never did replace it but just seen them on Amazon for 11 quid. It did last a few years so 11 quid is not a big deal.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KEMOT-DESOLDERING-Vacuum-Manual-Electric-Soldering/dp/B00DW7B96W/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1495821253&sr=8-17&keywords=Desoldering+pump
I think I will order one now.
Quote from: davent on May 26, 2017, 09:34:05 AM
Machined aluminum, an object of beauty, makes you feel all warm a fuzzy. Reasonably priced to boot.
dave
I also have the Engineer solder sucker and agree that it works well, being small and powerful. The silicon tube tip works great to get a seal on the component/pad and has a good spring/suction force for a small unit.
The thing I don't get about it is it the solder it pulls gets stuck in the silicon tubing and doesn't make it into the chamber (perhaps the silicon tubing cools it down too quickly?). Therefore, the tubing needs to be cleared out manually after each use, often requiring a dental pick or other implement.
I'm fortunate to have recently picked up a used Hakko FR-300 from Pryde which is great for tasks to desolder multiple components in one go, or other tough removal tasks.
Is there a brand of solder wick people recommend? I'm going to pick up a new solder sucker and some of that, then look at saving up for a nice solder/de-solder station.
Quote from: Timko on May 26, 2017, 11:40:12 AM
Is there a brand of solder wick people recommend? I'm going to pick up a new solder sucker and some of that, then look at saving up for a nice solder/de-solder station.
I just use the NTE stuff my local electricians supply carries (The .075" size) and it works well for me. I add a drop of liquid flux to it before use, but past that, its great. (part number SW01-5)
Quote from: Timko on May 26, 2017, 11:40:12 AM
Is there a brand of solder wick people recommend? I'm going to pick up a new solder sucker and some of that, then look at saving up for a nice solder/de-solder station.
I use Techspray Pro Wick. Works fantastic. I don't flux only some fresh solder on the joint you're working on.
Josh
I've gone through a few little pumps. For times I need to desolder more than just a component or two, I go to my Rat Shack desoldering iron with the squeeze bulb. Its a bit of a contraption to use, and won't fit in really tight spots, and takes a little while to heat up. It works fairly well. I always cut parts out first in most cases.