I'm looking to buy a soldering station, and wondering what folks are using these days. I've done a search on the forum which has provided some pointers but I'd like to get an up to date consensus, and also, if possible, options that can be bought in the UK. At the moment, I'm considering the HAKKO FX-888D, but if there was a cheaper option that would be good.
I adore my Hakko 888. Quick heat up, surprisingly quick cool down, good sturdy construction, easy to buy tips for, comfortable in hand, etc etc etc.
But, I fully admit its also probably a bit overkill for what I use it for. Better than my old pencil iron, but I probably could have gotten away with a Weller WLC100 and saved 40$~ (I got my hakko on sale though, so... yeah)
But unfortunately I don't know what is easily available in the UK. The Hakko is a fantastic tool that will treat you well, but you could probably make do with less. (Hell, watch Big Clive on youtube. Dude is a damned wizard with a soldering iron and he uses some shitty 20$ Chinese Ebay toss off.)
I also have a Hakko 888. My opinion, however, is that it is worth every penny. I would never go back to a cheap, non-temperature-controlled iron.
Well, I don't own a Hakko 888, but that's still what I'd recommend for anything less than $100. It's a good, reliable station and the parts should be available for a long time.
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 03:39:03 AM
I also have a Hakko 888. My opinion, however, is that it is worth every penny. I would never go back to a cheap, non-temperature-controlled iron.
This. Changed my life, man.
Thanks for the feedback.
As I feel the need for a life-changing event, I just ordered a HAKKO FX-888D. 8)
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
It's 60/40 - the real McCoy, not the vegetarian, low-fat stuff. 8)
I have a 40 watt version of this one:
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/60_Watt_Soldering_Station.html
It works well but the 60 watt is half the price I paid for the 40 a few years ago. Hopefully it's still the same quality but with that price difference you never know. If it's still good quality it's a steal for the price.
63/37 is vegetarian, low-fat eutectic solder. 8)
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:21:53 AM
63/37 is vegetarian, low-fat eutectic solder. 8)
Then what is Pb-free solder?
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
+1 on the Hakko. I love it.
Since there are lots of Hakko users here, I have to ask: Does anyone else just leave it on the default setting (750), never bothering to try other temps or even figure out the optimum temp? Maybe it's just me.
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
63/37 allows me to enjoy more beer or coffee while soldering. :P
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 08:03:09 AM
Since there are lots of Hakko users here, I have to ask: Does anyone else just leave it on the default setting (750), never bothering to try other temps or even figure out the optimum temp? Maybe it's just me.
That should be fine if you keep the dwell time low. I use 720F for my adj. Weller station and the fixed tips I use for my Metcal have a max temp of 775F. I use these for things like microphones and balanced armature receivers which are generally more heat sensitive than most electronic components.
I got my Hakko frm here http://www.dancap.co.uk
It was the cheapest i could find it. The dancap website is a bit crap and you have to pay by bank transfer but my iron arrived next day, no trouble at all. And they have a good selection of tips
By the way, I ordered an additional fine point tip direct from Hakko (well, from their US subsidiary), and I got a very friendly marketing call from them asking if they could help me with anything else. They were very polite even after they found out I was just a hobbyist with limited funds. ;)
As long as you have an iron with enough watts (I have a 40W pencil iron, no temp control, plug n go), good technique (this is huge), and good solder (I like 60/40, it's more forgiving of me twitching slightly or components moving ever so slightly), you can get away with nearly anything.
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I use Kester no-clean 63/37. Bought a 1lb roll like 2 years ago and still working through it. I also keep a bottle of rosin flux handy for tricky joints, but the no-clean suits me fine for 90%+ purposes.
(Actually just looked it up, its been exactly 2 years as of yesterday. Freaky timing)
I've got some solder that I inherited from somewhere, 60 tin, 2 copper, 38 lead. Not sure what the 2% copper does? Gives it that certain je ne c'est pas?
Anyway, another Hakko 888D user here, and I'm really happy with it. I've set it up to have 3 preset temperatures - 350 for normal, 370 for hotter requirements, and 250 for cool down and clean up.
My Hakko FX-888D arrived today and I'm loving it. Set it to 350C and it feels wonderful. A nice solid clunk as it sits in its holder, way better than the worryingnly bouncy spring holder of my previous Antex 18w. And my solder joints are much better. 8)
Quote from: Philtre on February 13, 2018, 04:14:55 AM
My Hakko FX-888D arrived today and I'm loving it. Set it to 350C and it feels wonderful. A nice solid clunk as it sits in its holder, way better than the worryingnly bouncy spring holder of my previous Antex 18w. And my solder joints are much better. 8)
Another bit of advice, don't bother with the sponge, the brass fluff is a much better tip cleaner. Wet things just cool the iron.
Alternatively, if you do bother with the sponge, as I do, always clean any new sponges with soapy water and a thorough rinse before first use.
Aw, not a fan of the random "I think my sinuses are dying" smell of industrial sponge preservative? ;D
Thanks for advice, guys. Still loving it.
Today I soldered up a Hearthrob tremolo on vero with the Hakko, and it was really smooth. Less dwell time on each solder joint, and good clean contact. Used less solder, too. Pedal worked first time. :-)
I love it that I can switch it off without worrying about how long it'll take to get back up to temperature. Oh, and the brass stuff cleans the tip like a champ.
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I often do a first pass with isopropanol, but that leaves the board sticky, so I will often do a final pass with flux remover (there are many variants out there). The flux remover is nasty stuff, so make sure to use it in a ventilated area. I usually spray a little on and scrub it with a dedicated toothbrush (never been used for actually brushing teeth).
Also, clean the board before you put on sockets, pots, trimpots, or basically any part the flux could wash into as it can ruin those parts.
I do repeated cycles of 99% isopropyl and distilled water. Scrub the alcohol on a bit with a short bristled paint brush or toothbrush, rinse with DI, another rinse with iso, another with DI, etc. 3 or 4 rounds leaves me non-sticky, typically. But yeah don't wash once things with moving parts are on board.
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:37:49 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I often do a first pass with isopropanol, but that leaves the board sticky, so I will often do a final pass with flux remover (there are many variants out there). The flux remover is nasty stuff, so make sure to use it in a ventilated area. I usually spray a little on and scrub it with a dedicated toothbrush (never been used for actually brushing teeth).
Also, clean the board before you put on sockets, pots, trimpots, or basically any part the flux could wash into as it can ruin those parts.
I notice the isopropyl leaving sticky residue and that is why I asked. What is the difference between Isopropyl and Isopropanol? I have old roson core from the 90s pretty messy stuff. When I can I'll modernize my solder.
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:44:16 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:37:49 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I often do a first pass with isopropanol, but that leaves the board sticky, so I will often do a final pass with flux remover (there are many variants out there). The flux remover is nasty stuff, so make sure to use it in a ventilated area. I usually spray a little on and scrub it with a dedicated toothbrush (never been used for actually brushing teeth).
Also, clean the board before you put on sockets, pots, trimpots, or basically any part the flux could wash into as it can ruin those parts.
I notice the isopropyl leaving sticky residue and that is why I asked. What is the difference between Isopropyl and Isopropanol? I have old roson core from the 90s pretty messy stuff. When I can I'll modernize my solder.
Isopropanol is Isopropul alcohol. Just make sure you use the high purity stuff.
Flux remover works a lot better and requires fewer passes. It's much easier to get the residue off. That said, it's nastier to work with and more expensive. A can should last a while if you use it sparingly.
You can even get it with an integrated brush if you like:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mLp-pZ%2BwL._SY886_.jpg)
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 04:07:40 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:44:16 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:37:49 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I often do a first pass with isopropanol, but that leaves the board sticky, so I will often do a final pass with flux remover (there are many variants out there). The flux remover is nasty stuff, so make sure to use it in a ventilated area. I usually spray a little on and scrub it with a dedicated toothbrush (never been used for actually brushing teeth).
Also, clean the board before you put on sockets, pots, trimpots, or basically any part the flux could wash into as it can ruin those parts.
I notice the isopropyl leaving sticky residue and that is why I asked. What is the difference between Isopropyl and Isopropanol? I have old roson core from the 90s pretty messy stuff. When I can I'll modernize my solder.
Isopropanol is Isopropul alcohol. Just make sure you use the high purity stuff.
Flux remover works a lot better and requires fewer passes. It's much easier to get the residue off. That said, it's nastier to work with and more expensive. A can should last a while if you use it sparingly.
You can even get it with an integrated brush if you like:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mLp-pZ%2BwL._SY886_.jpg)
We've reached such a level of quote nesting that the posts are starting to look like the scrolling text at the beginning of Star Wars. ;D
Quote from: EBK on February 13, 2018, 04:21:49 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 04:07:40 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:44:16 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:37:49 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 13, 2018, 01:01:47 PM
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 10, 2018, 09:58:05 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder? 8)
The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO. Less chance of a bad joint.
Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?
The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state. It goes from liquid to solid with no transition. 60/40 does. If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint. 60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?
I like the Kester 63/37 with the RMA flux, but I'm not averse to cleaning boards. I used to hate no clean solder, but the recent ones have improved workability so that can be a decent route to go as well.
What do you use to clean boards?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I often do a first pass with isopropanol, but that leaves the board sticky, so I will often do a final pass with flux remover (there are many variants out there). The flux remover is nasty stuff, so make sure to use it in a ventilated area. I usually spray a little on and scrub it with a dedicated toothbrush (never been used for actually brushing teeth).
Also, clean the board before you put on sockets, pots, trimpots, or basically any part the flux could wash into as it can ruin those parts.
I notice the isopropyl leaving sticky residue and that is why I asked. What is the difference between Isopropyl and Isopropanol? I have old roson core from the 90s pretty messy stuff. When I can I'll modernize my solder.
Isopropanol is Isopropul alcohol. Just make sure you use the high purity stuff.
Flux remover works a lot better and requires fewer passes. It's much easier to get the residue off. That said, it's nastier to work with and more expensive. A can should last a while if you use it sparingly.
You can even get it with an integrated brush if you like:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mLp-pZ%2BwL._SY886_.jpg)
We've reached such a level of quote nesting that the posts are starting to look like the scrolling text at the beginning of Star Wars. ;D
QFT
Quote from: EBK
We've reached such a level of quote nesting that the posts are starting to look like the scrolling text at the beginning of Star Wars. ;D
Seriously.
It's making me hallucinate when I look at it too long.........
Quote from: blearyeyes on February 13, 2018, 01:05:00 PM
What do you use to clean boards?
In my case, utter laziness. (IE, I don't bother :) )
Quote from: alanp on February 14, 2018, 11:39:05 PM
In my case, utter laziness. (IE, I don't bother :) )
Yeah I often don't. The exceptions are: when I do SMD stuff (I suck at this and use gallons of flux to make up for it.), and when I screw up and need to de-solder something (again, the wick has a ton of flux and it annoys me).
My usual no-clean solder residue doesn't bug me so unless its something I'm planning to photograph, I don't bother.
Any benefit in cleaning boards.? I've been soldering for at least 15 years and have never cleaned a solder joint. I even had formal soldering training in an electrician apprenticeship and they never talked about it. I'll admit it looks ugly on white pcbs but I'm not Instagramming my soldering. Just curious if there is any benefits or just strictly for looks?
Quote from: bsoncini on February 15, 2018, 02:52:55 PM
Any benefit in cleaning boards.? I've been soldering for at least 15 years and have never cleaned a solder joint. I even had formal soldering training in an electrician apprenticeship and they never talked about it. I'll admit it looks ugly on white pcbs but I'm not Instagramming my soldering. Just curious if there is any benefits or just strictly for looks?
I've heard that some fluxes are mildly hygroscopic and can become somewhat conductive over time (or sticky enough to get dusty and somewhat conductive), but I've not seen it be an issue in person. I do it with my SMD stuff because its a pain to see the joints when they're covered in shiny brown goo, but thats the only real "issue" i've run into.
But, let the veterans chime in, I'm still a bit of a neophyte in many respects.
Quote from: bsoncini on February 15, 2018, 02:52:55 PM
Any benefit in cleaning boards.? I've been soldering for at least 15 years and have never cleaned a solder joint. I even had formal soldering training in an electrician apprenticeship and they never talked about it. I'll admit it looks ugly on white pcbs but I'm not Instagramming my soldering. Just curious if there is any benefits or just strictly for looks?
It depends on the flux used in the solder. For example, water based flux MUST be removed or it will eat away at the board. For no-clean flux it's not necessary at all (obviously). For RMA type fluxes, it usually isn't necessary either; as you guessed, it's more about looks. Occasionally, there are circuits where it can matter, but for low frequency audio circuits, generally not.
I don't wash all boards I do; I do it more with SMT than anything else as I lay down more flux when soldering and it looks terrible. Lately, I've been cleaning the tops of the boards more as well, again because it looks better.
So, if you are using standard rosin core RMA or no-clean solder, you can skip cleaning if you want.