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The artwork looks fantastic.

Did you roll your own ldr/leds?

Yep I rolled them, then put heat shrink over it and pinched the ends


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Built Delyk's horizontal version of Drolo's twin peaks circuit. Really cool pedal, sounds great!

This is probably my 50+ pedal built, but have previously never done any artwork or labeling on my pedals. I learned how to use inkscape and leveraged some artwork from others that have built this pedal. I tried printing on clear adhesive paper, but when I applied it to a sanded aluminum enclosure there was a bunch of air underneath. I could never get it to lay as a waterslide might and it looked horrible so I abandoned that idea. I ended up sending my art work to PPP and had them brush, paint, and UV print the graphic. Sort of costly, but turned out great.

The tap tempo led is not as bright as I would like, but it's usable. Might try and tweak it at some point.

I put DJN Pedals on the enclosure because it's my initials and thought it would be fun. I am not trying to take credit for this circuit at all. This is just for my personal use, will not build more or ever sell any, just thought it would fun to put something on there to personalize it.




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I have the same problem with mine so thanks for figuring that out.

I have the same problem too. Was going to live with it until I found this post.


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Awesome, thank you both for the quick responses.

In the future how would I determine the current draw of a circuit? Is that typically in a build doc? Or something I can measure with a multimeter when I test it?


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I'm thinking about doing my first multi using the 1590G boards.

How many circuits can be powered off one onespot?

Any reason for concern, or just load up with as many as I want?

Hey mfunky, I just bought yellow diffused LEDs from mammoth electronics. I noticed they ask you to choose a led color, that confused me so I just did the quick add function so I didn't have to choose.  Although I think the LED color ended up being orange.


http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SLED5MMYL-p/1000-101-yl.htm



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Very cool pedal. Great layout by Brejna, worked on the first try. I wanted to add graphics or labels, but have never done it before, some day I'll give that a shot.



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Are you sure you are biasing correctly? I used a fequency analyzer iPhone app to determine the clock fequency when audio probing pin2 of IC5. Set the clock to around 6.5khz, then audio probe the first BBD on pin 3.  What I didn't realize first time around was that bias trimmer 1 will be almost completely clockwise to pass delay.


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I had a similar problem when I built mine, and eventually realized I left a jumper out (C40). There are a few direction on the true bypass page I missed first time around.


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Hey, this is a great build, nice work!

I was curious about the cap selection.  I always use Epcos box film caps or Panasonic film caps.

I've seen builds where, similar to yours, the film caps are all the small yellow ones.  The only ones I know of that look like that are polarized tantalum caps.

What type of caps are those and why would some one choose those over a typical box film cap?

Thanks if you're able to provide a response, I'm just trying to continue to learn, thx!


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First build of 2016. MN3005 / MN3001 running at 15v via the Madbean road rage board.  I got very lucky the road rage fit as I didn't really plan for it when drilling. Great sounding pedal, thankful Madbean had this project and adaptation of the old DM-2 circuit. Still working on the rate indicator being a bit more dynamic visually. The 15v basically flooded the LED with brightness and have not been able to tweak the resistors to get it to function visually like it did at 9v.  But other than that, sounds really great!


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You don't need to post voltages. Try increasing the value of the two resistors used with the external indicator. These are R48/49. I think I suggested 8k2 at one point (the values need to be identical).

There may be some variation on how it behaves depending on what type of LED is used, I'm guessing.

Hello Brian,

quick question - if I increase R48 & R49 to something higher than 8k2 (like 10k or 15k), should I also increase R50 & R51 to the same values? or does it not really matter?

Thank you, Brian. Looking at the schematic now that makes a lot of sense.

I built the Aquaboy DX (MN3005 with MN3101) and recently added add Road Rage PCB to give it a regulated 15v.  I made the suggested 15v changes from the build doc; R50 and R51 at 8k2, R13 and R14 at 36k. 

Once calibrated for 15v the pedal sounds really great, however D4 (rate indicator of the LFO) is way less acurate and seems to be almost always on, with just slight changes in brightness.  Note: at 9v's D4 was very accurate and would clearly flash on and off with the rate of the LFO.

Has anyone encountered this or know how to potentially fix.  I don't think I need to post all my voltages for this, but if necessary I will.

Thank you!

Dan

Thanks Jimlee, think I'll wait then


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