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Phil knows how much I love the pretty lights! Thank you both for your help! I hope to have this one boxed up this week. I'll post a picture when it's done.

Phil to the rescue! Thanks heaps for the schematic, man. I will definitely be giving this a try. Have you built this thing? So nasty! I love it.

I built the Bandwrecker, it's bonkers and I love it! I would ideally like to somehow have the opto lfo section foot switchable so that in one position it functions as intended with the opto controlling the lfo via the rate pot, and have the other position on the switch go to an ldr that is visible through the top of the pedal... So that it can be controlled with my foot, like a probe wah. I can't seem to wrap my head around how this could be accomplished. Does anyone know if it's possible, and if so, how to implement it? Muchas gracias to anyone who chimes in.

Do you guys use a de-fumer or just hella fans (like me)? I thought about buying a de-fumer, but reviews seem to be mixed about how effective they are.

I've been using a Toolcraft defumer like you see in the last picture (it's not a lamp). I previously had a unit standing on the table top and I think this new one with the swinging arm is going to be a nice upgrade. IMO, it definitely helps. I haven't got asthma or anything, but I always noticed sore throat and coughing after soldering without any kind of active ventilation in the past. There's acidic stuff from the resin core in the fumes that can really affect your breathing. I used to use a bathroom fan with a hose attached transporting fumes out of the window years ago. Both options seem to work and keep things manageable. No sore throats or coughing since.

As far as lead goes: the consensus is that it's so heavy that it immediately falls down. There's no real risk of inhaling any vaporized lead particles. (strictly/technically speaking we should be talking about it's vapor pressure: there's no real chance of gaseous lead atoms escaping from the liquid when soldering). There have been quite extensive studies, measuring lead content in the blood of professional solderers. Virtually none was found I believe. Don't eat and drink at your work space and wash your hands afterwards and you should be fine. Wisdom handed down from RG Keen years ago (credit where credit is due).

Cool, thanks for that helpful info!

Looks awesome! I have the same Ikea shelving units in my little work area. They're great. I also really like the tray, is it a baking pan? Look at all those enclosures you've got there, just waiting for guts...

My wife has kindly let me take over our dining room area for the workbench. I wish I had a detached garage to work in. We're dealing with lead and fumes, pretty toxic stuff. We're looking to move soon, and I plan to buy one of those small sheds at Home Depot to throw in the yard for my new and improved work space This way I won't be poisoning my family anymore.

Do you guys use a de-fumer or just hella fans (like me)? I thought about buying a de-fumer, but reviews seem to be mixed about how effective they are.

Thanks for another suggestion. I gave that a go, still got the lock-up unfortunately. I had already tried swapping out rate pots before I posted for help. I kind of figured that might be the culprit, but it doesn't seem to be. I tried Alpha and Vimex pots (both B50k) that I tested on the multimeter beforehand. (I should mention that I test every part with my multimeter before I solder them into the board.) I just went over the build doc again, insuring that I have inserted all of the correct parts in their respective places on the board. They are all correct. I'm going to go over the trace side of the board with a magnifying glass when I have more time, just to be sure there isn't something awry there. Thanks for your help. 

Thanks for your suggestion. The depth pot doesn't seem to have any effect on the lock-up. I tried it with depth all the way CW, all the way CCW, and everywhere in between. I messed with all the pots, same thing happens with the rate pot no matter what.

I'm using a Tayda LDR/red 5mm LED homemade vactrol. I tried a 5mm white LED, using the same LDR, with identical results. The vactrols were pulled from fully-functioning builds, so I know they work. You think it would be better to try to track down a VTL5C3?

I've just finished the Double Flush. Everything is working just fine, except I noticed that as I turn the Rate pot down CCW, it makes the LEDs stay lit all the way and all sound cuts out just before totally CCW. If I remove the 9v power wire and put it back, I'm in business again... Until I turn that Rate knob back down. I've tried a few different TL062s and a couple of different B50k Rate pots and a couple of different vactrols, same results. Any ideas what could be causing this behavior? This is a really nice tremolo, hopefully I can get it to stop doung the lock up thing.

Antique Electronic Supply has some interesting ones.

Awesome, Mike! I love the tinned faceplate. How funny, I just PM'd you about the Twin Peaks I just finished on vero. This was one of those rare occasions where I thought the vero was much easier to build than the PCBs. I used this layout:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/10/twin-peaks-tap-tempo-tremolo.html

Thanks for those switches and the TAPLFO chips! Isn't this trem great?

Do you have a vibrato bridge on your guitar?

Rumor has it that MBV used the pitch knob on their tape machines to get those detuned warbles. I've done it on my tape machines and it's such a cool effect!

Thanks for that info. Maybe I'll pull it out of the "recycle" bin and try out your suggestions. 

Sweet! I love the faceplate.

I use the Action Marker they sell at Small Bear. IMO, it works way better than a Sharpie cuz you only need to hit it once.

FWIW I've built two of the thin boards, they both work perfectly.