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JJs are actually made in the Slovak Republic and I find them to be pretty reliable. I have their rectifier tube in 2 amps and never had a problem. I think Chinese tubes get a bad rap that isn't quite deserved. An amp tech told me that JJs and Chinese tubes are really the only ones made to spec and some of the only tubes you can use for the cathode follower position. Don't know if that is true or not. You could also try a Ruby rectifier tune, it's just a re-labeled Chinese tube but tested for quality. I did have a sovetek and a Mullard (all under the New Sensor) go bad on me.

Did you try replacing the phase inverted tube? You mentioned it earlier.

Replacing power tubes in most amps requires that you bias them. I don't know if that amp is cathode biased or not, or how it's set up. So keep that in mind when you are going to do a power tube replacement.

Personally I like JJs for everything power tube.  And for 6L6 I also have used 6L6wxt+ and have liked them. I think... and mind you this is hard to tell... but the JJs I think have more umph.

Awesome builds! Did Wampler do any mods to the ODR-S?

That is just cool.

Glad you figured it out. Should have suggested reflowing everything.

So, on the Headtrip I've decided to include the SpinCAD file used to make the patches for the project. I'm really hoping people will take advantage of that to start exploring SpinCAD to program their own stuff. It's really pretty easy once you get the hang of it. That doc should be up tomorrow. I still plan on doing an introductory tutorial to SpinCAD before the end of the year. Things is pretty crazy ATM, though.

That is awesome! I'm really glad you are doing that. I've been wanting to get into SpinCAD and fv-1 programming, but haven't had the time to learn.

Next thing to check is make sure your power supply is center negative. You can do that by putting the negative of your volt meter leads into the barrel and placing the other on the outside. Make sure it reads +9. Also how are you connecting it to your wires for testing?

Check to see if either the IC is in backwards or you have the ground and +9 volt wire in reverse.

It's hard to say without pictures. It would be good to have a picture of the top and bottom side of the board that would help someone here figure out what is going on. Check your cuts and make sure you are not missing on, can happen pretty easily on vero. And reflow your connections. Look for any solder bridges that might have accidentally happened. I'd first look at your power section and check if everything is hooked up correctly to you two ICs. Those voltages are way off and it makes me think you are missing a cut, or something is grounding the power.

Ordered my UberTuber! What's you tube testing process?

It's looking like you could do a miniseries. All these sound great to me. Tales from the Bean Cave.

Into obscurity

Awesome glad you got it working.  What do the zener diodes do to the sound?

Switching sometimes baffles my brain.  My gut says maybe try something like this: