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I certainly noticed the difference between a Hotpotz II and a Mccon-o-pot (https://mcconowah.com/mcconopot-potentiometer). The sweep is better than the standard Dunlop pot, and they are relatively cheap. I picked one up when I built a Weener Wah last year and it's been pretty excellent.

I would avoid the cheaper alternatives, as quality is really important with Wah pots. They take a lot of abuse!

And, it is nigh on impossible to get decent Mexican food (by our standards). On the plus side I rather enjoy southern/soul food, and that is well represented, but god help you if you want a decent enchilada or tamale.

True.  But, we've got authentic Ethiopian food out the wazoo.   

YESSSS, I was in DC a few weeks ago and the Ethiopian food was unreal!

Thank you! You've helped me revive a long-dead thread with a TON of layouts. I have it bookmarked, and just recently noticed that all of the images were hosted on Photobucket.

The chrome extension works flawlessly after clearing your image cache!

It looks like you soldered your transistors directly to the board. They can be rather sensitive to heat, and may be the cause of your issues. They are best installed with sockets, as they are a type of component with a higher failure rate. Best luck!

I've built both the Triple Wreck and the Dr. Boogie, and the Dr. Boogie has much more gain on tap. I prefer JFET distortion, as it gets a lot closer to tube preamp distortion than op amp circuits do (in my experience). I built the Triple Wreck on vero and had no issues; it sounds great, but it doesn't get that 'saturated overdriven tube tone' that Mesa is renowned for.

Every build I've done that didn't pass sound when bypassed had issues directly related to the wiring of the jacks, stomp switch, or ground.

It's funny you mention the squeeling with the Pale Horse. I owned an early model Pale Horse a few years ago, and recall it squeeling when everything was turned up. I think this is a normal experience with this circuit.

Great work!

Looks like it was 2 things: the DC jack was shorting against the case, and a ground wire not connected to the sleeve of the output jack.

Alright, so a little background information on the build I'm currently having issues with. I just finished a Madbean Wolfshirt (Foxx Tone Machine).  It was working excellently at both 9v and 18v (all components rated at 25v or higher), until I boxed it up. I traced the issue down to C13, a 1uf cap right before the volume pot. I have signal at the collector of Q4, and at the entrance to C13, but not on the other side of the cap. I replaced the capacitor with another 1uf film, and the problem persists. When I jumper the leads of the cap, I get signal, and both caps have measured just fine.

I'm not quite sure where the problem lies at this point.

I'm finding that numerous builds of mine work excellently the first few times I use them. I box them up, and they suddenly don't work. Through fault finding, I've noticed each time it's not just a wiring/ground issue, but it's a component failing somewhere in the circuit. Is it common for components to work for a while before shorting out or dying? I'm starting to suspect some 1uf poly film caps as the suspect, as crazy as that sounds.

Thank you! It came out great and absolutely rips on 18V!

I'm building a Chunk Chunk and I would love to run it at 18 Volts with the road rage charge pump. I'm seeing a 1n4004 diode in the power filtering section of the schematic, so I'm wondering if I should place a 1N4746A (18V Zener) there instead.

Thanks!

There really is no such thing as "the Klon buffer". The buffer in that circuit came straight off the op amp datasheet in the "example applications" section.

Might as well call at the National Semiconductor or Texas Instruments buffer. 

Is there a good location to view example applications of op-amps? It seems like a surprising number of big-name manufacturers used an example design in this fashion.

You would want to check your own work before anything. Every time I've had an issue come about it was a result of an error I made. Most of my mistakes have been:

Solder bridges (they can be tucked away, or really unnoticeable in some cases), poor connections or solder joints, a forgotten ground connection, transistor orientation/placement, wiring mistakes, or a component grounding out against an enclosure.

Hope this helps!

+1 on the green russian big muff; excellent circuit and easy to build.