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Messages - Dave_B

#1
That makes sense.  This was around 1998, and I was learning on the PIC16 series.  I remember now that the other big attraction with the AVRs was the large number of registers.  I suppose these things only really matter if you're using assembler exclusively, which was a corner I painted myself into more than a few times. 
#2
Quote from: oip on May 21, 2018, 08:10:57 PM
i've got an arduino but haven't touched it for ages, successfully made it scroll text across a 2 line screen at one point.  had some ideas to make a MIDI sequencer but never got into it. 

definitely interested in PIC programming but damn it feels like deep water to jump into without a programming or hardware design background.

on a semi-related note there are a few very interesting diy DSP platforms like axoloti and bela.

FWIW, I spent a few years with PICs and grew tired of the way their memory is set up in pages (which may no longer be the case). I switched to AVRs and found those much easier to code for.  This was all pre-Arduino and done in assembler, again FWIW.  :)

If I was to start from scratch today, I'd probably start with an ARM Cortex processor (what the Teensy boards use), or as you said a DSP platform.   
#3
Quote from: woolie on May 21, 2018, 10:09:04 AM
Quote from: Dave_B on May 21, 2018, 10:00:06 AM
Quote from: woolie on May 14, 2018, 05:53:57 AM
Problem is, you'll need ADC/DAC.
The Teensy has both of those.  The newer models can run up to 240mhz, so it's possible to at least experiment with them as-is.


The teensy 3.6 is crazy impressive. An ARM Cortex m4? Crazy!
That being said the ADC's are 13 bit and the DAC are 12 bit resolution. Fun to play with but not really suitable for audio processing. IMHO of course.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Yep.  I totally agree.  Having said that, I still have a 12-bit Roland SDE 1000 delay that sounds pretty good.  :)
#4
Quote from: woolie on May 14, 2018, 05:53:57 AM
Problem is, you'll need ADC/DAC.
The Teensy has both of those.  The newer models can run up to 240mhz, so it's possible to at least experiment with them as-is.
#5
Hi all. I completed a Harbinger One last night.  I noticed something after I soldered the light shield in place that may save someone some hassle in the future. The inside of my shield is white, and the added reflectivity messed with the "swirl" of the effect.  I made this award winning video to demonstrate. 


#6
Quote from: davent on May 13, 2018, 08:45:14 PM
It was many years ago but i bought Teflon/Kapton 24 or 26awg from here. Very small cross section, very stiff and teflon coax is a godsend.
...
Wow, thanks.  I just ordered as well.
#7
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.  I realized after purchasing the pots from Smallbear that I should have grabbed the plastic covers he sells.  I'll improvise.   :)
#8
Quote from: madbean on June 28, 2016, 09:08:17 AM
Quote from: Dave_B on June 24, 2016, 02:30:35 PM
Any prediction when the Harbinger One will be restocked in the regular thickness?  I'm ready to build one, but it's a large enough board that I'd rather wait for the heavier version.
Not until the current stock is pretty much gone. It doesn't make any sense for me to offer two versions of the same board (and I'd rather spend money now on other resotcks or new projects). However these boards are selling really well so I don't it'll be more than a couple of months.
That's fine by me.  Thanks, Brian.
#9
It never occurred to me to mount them on the back of the board, and the reversed tone controls (bass being on the right rather than the left) threw me off.  Your response and a google image search saved me some frustration.  Thanks!
#10
Smallbear has two types of right-angle pots.  Will the version with short pins clear the components on a board like the Chunk Chunk?  The long pin version (1011A) looks really long.


#11
Any prediction when the Harbinger One will be restocked in the regular thickness?  I'm ready to build one, but it's a large enough board that I'd rather wait for the heavier version.