Messages

Thank you! I will get them and report back!

Hey guys I had a quick question, I bought all the materials for this project except for the rotary encoders. I know there is a link to buy some in the bill of materials, but they were a little more expensive so I thought I could try and look around for something equivalent. Rotary encoders are a component that I am not too familiar with so I am not sure what the crucial parameters are for the taprecise that I need to be looking for. I think I found something that may be similar on Arrow.com, I compared the datasheets and they seem to be similar! It has 15 pulses, 30 detents and runs on 5v so to my eye it looks alright. I has hoping you guys could give me an opinion on whether the below rotary encoder would be a suitable replacement for the ALPS_EC12E_SW ones listed in the BOM before I pulled the trigger. I saw that they had free shipping for a little while so it could end up being a lot cheaper! thanks again everyone!

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/pec11l-4220f-s0015/bourns

It looks great! How did you make the faceplate if you don't mind?

Hey Boba7! I think i may be interested in one of your optical comp pcbs if possible! I am in the US as well. I love seeing your builds, they are always so clean and have the minimalistic vibe that I like!

Thank you for the schematic Madbean! I do not have any LT1054 chips handy, but I will definitely breadboard it when I get the chance and report back on my findings.

I was trying to think of other ways to achieve the -18v from 9v and thought since the -18v is supposed to be regulated to -15v in the end, would it be possible to make a bipolar power supply that outputs -15v and 15v (like the ones that are in eurorack modules I believe) and just use the -15v part and bypass the regulator? It seems like a sound idea but I am just brainstorming right now.

Madbean - Sorry I should have expanded on my thought a little more. Since I know that it is possible to power the Total Recall with a 18v power supply, I was wanting to use a regular 9v power supply into a voltage inverter to get it to be -9v (as if I was trying to power a PNP fuzzface and have it daisy chain with the other pedals) , and then put the -9v into a charge pump to get -18v. Does that make more sense? So 9v -> -9v -> -18v

So my thought is that this would allow me to use the 9v in the beginning for the Moodring, and then the -18v at the end of the charge pump madness would power the Total Recall.

Blearyeyes – I was looking at the roadrage board and saw that It could act as a charge pump, but I didn't know if it could work with a positive ground effect. Thank you for pointing it out!

Hello everyone! I had a quick question. I was wanting to do a dual pedal that had a Total Recall and some type of reverb in it, maybe a Moodring. Since they have different power requirements (The Total Recall needs 24v positive ground and the Moodring 9v negative ground) I was curious on the feasibility of it. I did read in the build docs that it could be possible to use a 18v supply for the Totall Recall if I lowered the value of the resistor in series with the power (R57 I believe) from 240R to 22R So I was thinking of possibly using a charge pump somehow and then flipping the wires to get the -18v i would need for the Totall Recall. I just dont know if this could introduce issues or is something that is remotely possible.  It would just be very awesome if I could have one power jack that would daisy chain with my other pedals nicely. Any thoughts would be very much welcomed!

Hey guys,

I had a quick question on what might be causing my current issue with my pedal build.

I built two of these layouts from the perfboard layouts website to put in a dual overdrive build that I was working on.

It is the 555 Timer Momentary Soft Touch Relay Bypass circuit. When I tested them individually, they worked great, I was able to get the LED to turn on and change the state of the relay with the momentary switch. The issue I have now though is when I connect the ground and power of the 2 individual circuits and power them from the same power supply. If I want to try and run both effects at the same time in series, I cannot get both LEDs to stay on. For example, if the switch is engaged for Effect #1 and has the indicator LED on, when I go to turn on Effect # 2, it will turn off the LED for Effect #1 and then illuminate the LED for Effect #2. Right now it is functioning more like channel select switchs which is cool, but not what I am trying to achieve with this build. It is almost like the two circuits are somehow interfering with each other.

I am not sure if there is a way to better isolate the 2 circuits to prevent the cross talk or what other steps can be taken to resolve the issue

I hope that makes sense and I am hoping to tap into your brains to see If I can fix it!

Thanks!

Thanks guys! Writing code for micro-controllers is something that I am not yet familiar with, but do plan on learning at some point! I am totally willing to give it a shot, but if I am being honest I would definitely need my hand to be held for most of the steps.

Blearyeyes-I tried to google "EXH volume dip passive" but wasn't sure what I was trying to find, is it a dip chip or maybe some kind of pedal?

While looking around I found this project http://audio.gotroot.ca/minivol/#parts Do you guys think this could be a solution?

Hello guys! I have a project that a bassist friend asked me to do, and I am not quite sure how to go about it! He was wanting a volume pedal but instead of having a foot treadle or a knob, he wanted it to just have 2 switches, one that is "volume down" and one that is "volume up" It would be just like a tv remote's volume buttons, but in a more rugged foot switch. I have done some googling and see that digital pots seem to be the way to go, but I was wondering what would be the simplest solution. He said that he would only need it to go from silent to unity, and i guess some leds to indicate what "level" he is at. I imagine that he would only need maybe 8-10 volume steps if that makes sense and he doesn't need any boost or anything. I am hoping this great community can help me out! Thanks!

Just to let everyone know, I was making a ping reverb and wanted to see if I could take apart the BTDR3 to make it a little bit smaller, and it was definitely gooped. I was able to get the outer plastic casing off, but then all that was left was this hard epoxy brick, which would probably be very time consuming to take apart without bricking the brick.

BTW - I am building an analog delay (DMM/MBP Total Recall) very soon and I am confident, that it will be controllable with taprecise as well: During the initial calibration, taprecise sets the digital pot that controls the delay time of the delay (in this case a 100k Pot) to a specific value. It than sends out a "Ping" and measures the resulting delay time. The result is a table with two collums: "Digital value of the digital pot" and "resulting delay time". It doesn't really matter, if the delay is the result of an analog or digital circuit...

Have you had any progress on this by any chance? I recently received a total recall pcb in the recent pifs and would love to implement taprecise in it to have the ultimate analog delay!