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I purchased an aftermarket pot, out of consideration for the company I won't specifically mention which I purchased. It's a CTS enclosed plastic no maintenance pot like the new Dunlop Hot Pot. My problem is that it feels as if the gears are grinding or don't fit with the rack (regular crybaby rack) very well. If I loosen the clutch it helps, but the treadle tends to drop to the toe down position on it's own. It behaves this way when it was installed in my V847 as well.

So my question is, do all of these black plastic CTS wah pots have this feel to their "action"? I don't want to buy a Hot Pot if it's going to behave in the same manner. Anyone with experience or ideas why this is happening? Things I could try to amend the issue?

https://musicstorelive.com/dunlop-ecb424b-hot-potz-ii-100k-pot-for-wah-pedals.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUuSnfvgj-8_7WJqJNd0fGwHdOtwQUscePWQW_zPs6R80skF_GA1tZhoCHW4QAvD_BwE

This may point you in the right direction,

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html

I'm looking to see if anyone has a recommendation for a color laser jet printer that can handle both pnp blue for PCB's, and print water slide decals in color. Looking to keep it under $300, and needs to have adjustable fuser temperature. Thanks in advance for feedback.

If you pm me with an email address that I can send the file to, I believe I have the PDF for you. The file is too large to attach here.

I live 700 ft above sea level in the woods, great night sky viewing. However, the best viewing I've witnessed was skiing in New Mexico (Rocky Mountains). Every inch of the sky has hundreds of stars. It similar to jumping to warp speed in the Millennium Falcon.

Normally, given that I reside in the States, I wouldn't order parts from Das Musikding, only because of potentially long international shipping times. However, they do carry some items that are rather difficult to get a hold of over here, like the Omeg pots. Anyway, the order shipped out on December 20th (12/20/2016), and still hasn't arrived yet. I live in East Texas.  Has anyone else, from the lower 48 States, ordered from them, and about how long did it take for you to receive your order?

If you are in an area with little light pollution, and you have the ability to rest the binoculars so they remain steady while used for viewing the night sky, you can see space junk everywhere flying around, all over the sky.

However, nothing can compare to viewing Saturn for the first time through a proper telescope with a motorized mount, that tracks the objects with precision. It's an epiphany.

My friend pawned a guitar just like that once, and lost it. Nice guitar.

I should've ordered multiple painted enclosures last time I shopped there, ouch.

I love Reverb.com it's great imho. I'm sure there have been exceptions, but I've found Reverb to be much more hassle free or safe than eBay. I just wish more people would use it. The only benefit, again in my opinion, of eBay is that there is much more traffic/buyers.

I still use my Johnson J-Station from time to time, it's got a killer rectifier emulator. If I'm truly feeling lazy or need to be quiet, I just run Amplitube, Guitar Rig, or GTR3 (Waves). Using an Guitar Cabinet Impulse Response plug-in for any of these works wonders. Using headphones of course.

The detergent is supposed to decrease the surface tension of the water enabling the decal to set into the fluid rather than sit on top, just don't quote me on that.
Another thing to check out is decal setting solution like micro sol.

If you soak the decal too long the adhesive will dissolve and leave you with a decal that won't bond. When using Krylon I will do about 9 light coats on every side of the enclosure, the top too of course. I wait 5 minutes in between each coat. Then I will spray a very light coat and wait 2-3 minutes, then finish it off with a thick coat. These last two steps ensure that I don't end up with an orange peel finish. Either way the curing time does suck. I usually wait at least a month or two before I put the pedal back together. I've heard that lacquer is a quicker drying and harder finish, I just haven't tried it yet.

You have to finish the decals on the enclosure with some kind of clear coat, I use Krylon or Rustoleum. I'm sure there are other types of clear coat paint that others use, it's basically trial and error.

Use papilio waterslide laser paper. Use luke warm water with less than a drop of mild dish detergent. Only let the decal soak for 1-2 minutes max. I usually try to break/slide the decal from the backing paper while still in the water. I then place about a centimeter of the edge of the decal on the enclosure that has a dampened surface and carefully pull the rest of the backing paper (a little at a time) off while pressing the decal onto the surface. Use some rubber gloves like the ones your general physician uses. Once the decal is on the enclosure I squeeze the air and water bubbles out with a damp foam brush or my thumb (with gloves). Plastic model building forums are another great place to look for tips on this.