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Messages - ahiddentableau

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1
Just to state the obvious in clear terms because nobody else has: you seem to be set on wiring, but it could well be a bad component or solder joint on the board.  In situations like this I usually get my hands on the schematic, break the circuit up into sections, and then probe through each section of the circuit until I hit the spot where the signal goes foom.  Then you can work through the smaller section until you find the bad part/joint.  Even if you don't have a schem, the pedal doesn't sound to complicated, so you should be able to break it down without too much trouble.

2
Open Discussion / Re: Favorite reverb projects?
« on: July 17, 2018, 08:51:41 PM »
I also endorse the argument that it depends on your playing style.  If you play blues or classic rock, spring is probably the way to go, but if you want massive washes of ambient textural goodness, then digital is usually going to be better.  Or you could go all in and build a massive diy plate reverb.  I hear it's a real conversation piece when you try to haul it into the venue.

Link: https://imgur.com/a/G5jGj

3
Just to expand on Chris's (excellent) reply: a mono enclosed jack should only have two lugs if it's of the standard type.  So it sounds like you got a switched mono jack, or they sent you a stereo jack by mistake (or because they've mislabeled their parts listings).  Either seems possible (because that parts listing is really crappy), so it's important that you suss out which one you've got.  Note that a switchcraft enclosed with a 2 at the end of the designation is generally a stereo jack so it's possible that that's what you've got.  I'd guess switched, but make sure you rule out stereo.

First, check if it's stereo by looking into the interior of the jack for a second flange that would hit the ring of a stereo jack.  If that's not there, then you probably have a switched mono jack--if it is then it's stereo. Follow Chris's advice to use a continuity tester to find which lug is switched on when the jack is engaged and which one is the ground.  Just wire the former as your tip and the latter as your ground and you can wire it up as normal and should be good to go.

4
Build Reports / Re: Bring back Buck! / Ultrastoner content
« on: July 14, 2018, 11:54:31 PM »
Can this thread please go two posts without some ghastly ball-busting story?  I'm sitting cross-legged now and I really can't help it.

5
Build Reports / Re: FV1 builds, Tye-Dye & All-in-one Tapanator
« on: July 14, 2018, 07:55:33 PM »
The FV-1 isn't dead silent in any application, but the noise floor is more apparent in a 100% wet situation.
There are a couple things you can do to reduce the noise in your build though.   

Increase the value of C14 (120pF) - Anywhere from 470pF - 1nF, you'll have to find a nice middle ground between less noise / treble attenuation

If you can live with a little less output boost on tap you have two other options:

1) Decrease the value of R11 to 10K (and increase C14)

or

2) Remove R10 and replace R11 with a jumper wire (optionally omit C13 / C14 since they'll be out of circuit)

The FV-1 isn't dead silent in any application, but the noise floor is more apparent in a 100% wet situation.
There are a couple things you can do to reduce the noise in your build though.   

Increase the value of C14 (120pF) - Anywhere from 470pF - 1nF, you'll have to find a nice middle ground between less noise / treble attenuation

If you can live with a little less output boost on tap you have two other options:

1) Decrease the value of R11 to 10K (and increase C14)

or

2) Remove R10 and replace R11 with a jumper wire (optionally omit C13 / C14 since they'll be out of circuit)

Thank you for the response Bugg.  I have already done the suggested C14 mod--when I looked at the schematic it was the first thing that crossed my mind.  I'm on the fence about whether the noise improvement is worth the treble attenuation.  As is so often the case, once you to mess with things you can see why the designer made the decisions he did.  But I'm gonna give your other suggestions a go since I don't think I'm ever likely to use it much (if at all) past unity gain.

BTW, I'm definitely in for a DMD-2 next time I order.  I really love your delays--you really have a good ear for them.

6
Build Reports / Re: Bring back Buck! / Ultrastoner content
« on: July 14, 2018, 06:34:10 PM »
I like the pedal.  I loved the story.  But I would respond more to Kane Williamson plays a steady fifty in harsh conditions to make the Aussies cry kind of tale.  You know, a story that still has balls, but not any that end up dangling outside of their protective coverings.

7
Build Reports / Re: FV1 builds, Tye-Dye & All-in-one Tapanator
« on: July 13, 2018, 02:21:04 PM »
I haven't really noticed any noise on my Octagon, but I don't remember any specific times running my mix that high either.

Is it just my pedal, then?  To be clear, when I back the mix down below 3 o'clock or so, the noise is not a problem at all.  And at that spot on the pot it's plenty wet.  But for ambient type stuff 100% wet is sometimes useful, and that position on my octogon has some significant noise.  Background hiss.  Just the noise floor, I'm pretty sure.

If I'm not feeling lazy I'll try rewiring the input and output with shielded wire to see if that makes a difference, but my intuition tells me it's the limit of the circuit and its components that's the culprit.  Just rather be told by someone than do it myself!

8
Build Reports / Re: FV1 builds, Tye-Dye & All-in-one Tapanator
« on: July 12, 2018, 02:42:44 AM »
How do you rate those FV1 projects?

I'm also interested in your opinion of the FV-1 builds, especially the double tracker.

I just built an Octogan a couple days ago.  I really like it, especially the delays.  They are absolutely fabulous.  I'm jonesing for a DMD-2 now.  However, I'm finding it a bit noisy at past 3 o'clock on the mix knob.  How's the noise on yours?

9
Build Reports / Re: Liquid Eternity chorus
« on: July 10, 2018, 08:30:26 PM »
Engraving.  What a great idea.  Congrats on a pretty pedal.

10
Open Discussion / Re: old BOSS ME-10
« on: July 10, 2018, 08:16:33 PM »
I'm dredging up an oldie here, but I have an old ME-10 and I'm looking for a service manual/schematics.  Anyone happen to have schems for this old fella?

11
You used the 9mm right angle pots?  I seem to remember having a similar problem.

I think the board is designed to be used with 9mm pots like this:
http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-single-gang-9mm-pc-mount/

The right angle pots jut out several mm and that creates a size issue.

Then the board nestles up against the top part of the longest side of the enclosure, leaving the entire bulk of the insides open.  The battery can then sit slim side up between the stomp switch and the bottom side of the enclosure.

I managed to get a battery to fit in mine with right angled 9mm pots, but I had to bend the pot leads perpendicular in order to sit the board against the top.  And if you didn't drill your holes right to give enough room, you're probably out of luck.  It'll all depend on whether the pre-drilled enclosure gives you enough room.

12
Open Discussion / Re: Including Schematics?
« on: June 22, 2018, 10:42:54 PM »
Schematics are essential.  That's how we learn.  I read build docs for projects I know I'll never have even the tiniest interest in building just to see the schematic.  Without them, it's just paint-by-numbers, and I'd be learning nothing.

13
Open Discussion / Re: in decline
« on: June 22, 2018, 10:37:59 PM »

I don't know the history of DIY PCB suppliers that well. But if you look through the archives at tagboardeffects from early to recent, it is amazing how the layout designers' skill and sophistication evolved in just a few years, to the point where they've done most of the circuits that are practical to put on a modest sized stripboard.


+1 to this.  It was impressive what that community managed to become in a very short period of time.  And it's worth saying that this one isn't too shabby either.

There are more options now, and I think that's diffused the group a fair bit.  When I started building it was basically tonepad and GGG.  Now it's a neverending list of options, and almost all of them are good.  Aion.  PedalPCB.  Etc.

Back in the day the community was concentrated in a handful of places, and that gave it more of a community feel.  Now it's more spread out. 

Also, to follow up on jkokura's post, the door really has opened to PCB design and manufacture, but for me at least, the spur wasn't the availability of videos or resources per se (although I sure appreciated your series!).  It was more a matter of seeing other people in the group do it.  That took the mystery away.  It was a matter of thinking "Hey, if all of these other people are doing it, maybe it isn't as hard as I thought."  That's what got me into learning how to use EAGLE and DIY boards.  And with OSHpark, that is a major change from the way the community operated even just a few years ago.  We used to be limited to what a few leaders built and put out there (and as Jon said, that was a boatload of YATS).  But now with the rise of stripboard builds and PCB making, there are a lot more builders who doing their own thing.  And I think that's probably healthy.

14
General Questions / Re: BLMS how has PCB pots
« on: June 18, 2018, 05:40:37 PM »
Anyone checked out their powder coated enclosures?  What's the quality like?  Better/worse/similar to Tayda?  I've never bought from them but their line has sure improved in the last couple years.

15
Definitely a TS varient, but it owes a fair bit to the Klon.  Look at the way the focus control/circuit operates--it's absolutely riffing off of the use of negative feedback in the Klon.  Even the hard clipping is basically the same as the Klon as far as I can see.

I'm basing this off of the schematic on Fred Briggs's site.  By now the entire bee-related school of pedals is so varied that I can only hope that I'm looking at the right one.

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