Messages

Hey, would you mind posting how to do the hard-wired envelope like you did?  It looks like only two wires are needed - and one is ground.  I'm assuming you just connected S to S for the ground and T to T for the signal line?  And assuming that's true, did you just use a meter to figure out which pad on the Gas Tank is ground and which is for envelope signal?  Thanks in advance

Hey y'all,

I just built a white horse using the V3 switching board with a V2.7 chip.  The pedal sounds great (although I was expecting more dirt from the distortion section rather than clean gain), but I can't seem to access the momentary mode.  I double-tap then hold, but the LED never flashes to indicate a mode change.  Any thoughts?

This was such a hot-looking board and project.  It kills me that I couldn't make it work right!   

At one time, everything worked... just badly.  I guess I picked at it a bit much if it's more broken than before...

well tell those bums to kick it into gear!   

seriously, though...  daddy needs some new boards!

Hi,

I've never used George L's or any other solderless cable kit, so I can't really comment on their quality... but I can't imagine why anyone capable of soldering wouldn't prefer a solid connection to one that could come apart easily.  I make all my own cables and patches using Canare G-6 cable and neutrik right-angle ends.  The neutriks have the best strain relief in the biz -- your cable will snap before the strain relief gives out -- and the Canare cable is thin, flexible even when cold, well shielded, and sounds like a million bucks.  It's a bit of a pain to "comb out" the braided shield when making the cables (I use a pcb reamer or a thumbtack in a pinch), but IMO it's worth it for a cable I know will last me 20 years or more.

j.

p.s. - don't buy into that snake oil monster cable nonsense.  you know, "this cable has one thick conductor for bass frequencies and a thin one for treble".  It's just marketing.  Look at the data sheets (when available) and compare stats.

Thanks, I wondered if it was version 1.  The layout is almost identical to v 1.5 on your projects page, but C1 is missing, and a few traces are routed differently.  Let me know if you still want a photo of the board...
Thanks again!

Hey Madbean,

Out of town for a few days so can't get to the pedal...  but I can tell you there's no version number.  The main board says "dig dug" on it, and the little board says "rawk out!"      Does that help? 

j.

Hi folks,

been lurking for a while, but this is my first post here.  I just completed my first madbean build, a dig dug.  I bought the boards from one of the guys over at BYOC, so it's an older version.  The plans sent with the boards were for version 1.5, but the board isn't exactly the same as pictured in the layout.  There is an electrolytic cap in the parts list (C1, 100uF) that has no spot on the board.  It's supposed to sit between C14 and the jumper, but there's no hole for it and the traces on the board don't match the plans.  I assume this is just a revision -- but will the pedal function without it?  And also - my parts vendor sent me the wrong kind of switch... but it looks like the pedal will function without any switch and just be in 8-step mode.  So I figure I can just leave off the switch - is that correct?  Do I need to jumper anything for this to work?

Last, I'm quite a noob when it comes to real electronics knowledge...  can anyone tell me how 9v+ power gets to the sub-board (the one with all the pots & LEDs)?  My pedal won't power up when I plug it in, and I'm wondering whether I'm getting power to those LEDs at all.  Let me know if anybody wants to see pics and I'll post away...

Thanks so much guys.

j.