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Looks fantastic. Do you have a link for where to find that PCB by any chance?

Send a PM to electricb on this forum - he may still have some available

Super tidy and excellent all around! Decal came out spotless spiffin', did you have a hard time getting it right or did it work first time and what was your process? I still haven't gotten around to use the filmless one...

The decal process took a couple of attempts to get right. Once applied it needs a short bake in the oven before removing the carrier film, then a wipe over with alcohol to clean up leftover glue, followed by another trip in the oven to harden the ink.

I followed the instructions at Sunnyscopa's website but went for the higher end of time and temperature, and didn't squeegee out all of the air bubbles properly, so it crackled and looked awful.  I then made the mistake of following the instructions to remove with acetone but forgot that acetone also dissolves powder coating  .

So cue a fresh enclosure, a bit more care, and lower oven temperatures and it came out really well. I've since completed two 1590A pedals and the results were just as good.

Thanks to all for the comments and encouragement. More builds on the way!

Hi all,
Just completed this build using a Black Horse Effects 1968 Fuzz PCB (thanks to electricb for the board).
Fuzz Face side uses two Mullard OC77s and the Rangemaster uses a Mullard CV7005.







Graphics are a nod to analogman's SunLion and came from a one-month trial subscription to Adobe Stock.
This is my first pedal build in a few years and the first time using filmless decal paper (from sunnyscopa.com).
The knob labels are a little off centre - I must have nudged them in Illustrator without realising, but not going back for a re-do.

Very happy with the result - the Rangemaster masters range and the fuzz fuzzes as expected.
Next, a couple of 1590A builds in progress - a hipster and a rabbit hole. I may be developing a fuzz addiction!

Try increasing the Bias Trimpot to a 20k, that should bring the voltage down enough to center the sundial at 4.5V

Thanks you, that fixed it.
Much appreciated.

[Transistor]

I've just about completed a 2-in-1 Ge Fuzz Face and Rangemaster build. Everything works first time (yay) but I can't quite get the bias point on the FF side within spec.

It's built using Black Horse Effects 1968 Fuzz PCB and the FF side uses an internal 10K bias trimmer plus an external 5KC bias pot (Sundial, as per the analogman Sunface)



With the Sundial centred the Q2 collector voltage ranges from 8.7VDC - 5.5VDC when adjusted using the internal trimmer.

If I have the Sundial all the way to the left (max resistance) I can get to the recommended 4.5V on the Q2 collector (and it sounds freaking awesome!), but it doesn't leave me with any other adjustment. So I think I need to increase the value of one or more of the resistors or the trimmer. Looking for confirmation that it's as simple as that and that I'm not missing anything else.

Transistors are Mullard OC77 that came from Smallbear:

• Q1 hFE 113, leakage 159 uA
• Q2 hFE 126, leakage 149 uA

Here are the voltage measurements (Sundial centred)

   
      
      
      
      

Transistor	Q1	Q2
Collector	0.476	5.5
Base	0.112	0.476
Emitter	0.112	0.356

Any suggestions welcomed

Thanks,
Dougal

Happy New Year, and a big thank you to everyone for your help and support here. I'm now elbow deep in bags of capacitors and resistors
I received an Amazon gift card for Christmas so next task is to stock up on switches, diodes, jacks and some ICs.
Does anyone have any recommended or trusted  Amazon sellers they use for components?

You're in NZ?  Do you have RS Components there?  That's who I use in Australia a lot, for last minute orders with free shipping.  Sometimes you need to order a minimum of 10 resistors, etc.

Element 14 is OK, but shipping costs unless you spend $40 or something. 

DIYGP (in the banner links above) is great, based in Melbourne, not sure how much the shipping would be to NZ.

Thanks for the link. I used to buy stuff from RS in pre-Internet times but had forgotten about them. Free shipping is a godsend!

Thanks all for the advice - living in the Southern Hemisphere, shipping costs often make small purchases uneconomic. It's usually worth buying enough to qualify for free shipping from Mouser/Digi-key/element14 etc.

I already knew about Tayda, but arrow.com is new to me and I've added it to my supplier bookmarks.

[Component]

Hi all,
First post here after my introduction.
I'm looking to build up some component stock and have been doing lots of reading and searching.
I tried to analyse the Bills of Material for a bunch of different commercially available PCBs, starting with madbean, and have managed to incorporate lists for 23 circuits into an Excel sheet (happy to share if anyone wants a copy).

After a bit of data cleansing, the table below lists the values of most components and I've highlighted some of the most common ones.

madbean BOM analysis


   
      
      
      
      
      
      
   
      
      

Component	Type/Rating	Values
Capacitor	Ceramic/MLCC	4.7pF, 10pF, 15pF, 22pF, 27pF, 33pF, 47pF, 68pF, 100pF, 120pF, 150pF, 180pF, 220pF, 270pF, 330pF, 390pF, 470pF, 560pF, 820pF
Capacitor	Film	1nF, 2.2nF, 3.3nF, 4.7nF, 6.8nF, 10nF, 15nF, 22nF, 39nF, 47nF, 100nF, 220nF, 1uF
Capacitor	Electrolytic	1uF, 2.2uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, 47uF, 100uF
Resistor	Carbon/Metal Film 1/4W, 1/8W	22, 47, 100, 220, 330, 470, 560, 1k, 1.5k, 1.8k, 2k, 2.4k, 2.7k, 3.3k, 3.9k, 4.7k, 5.6k, 6.8k, 7.5k, 10k, 12k, 15k, 18k, 20k, 22k, 27k, 33k, 39k, 47k, 56k, 68k, 82k, 100k, 120k, 150k, 220k, 390k, 470k, 1M, 2.2M, 3.9M, 4.7M, 10M
Diode	Various	1n34a, 1N4001, 1N5817, 1n914, BAT46, 1n270, 1N4002
Pots	Various	10kA, 100kA, 250kA, 500kA, 1kB, 10kB, 25kB, 50kB, 100kB, 500kB, 100kB-Dual, 1kC, 5kC, 100kC, 500kC, 1MA, 1MC
Trimpot	Bourns 3362P	1k, 5k, 10k, 20k, 25k, 50k, 100k, 250k, 500k
IC	Various	4558, BTDR-3, LM1458, LM308, LM386, LT1054, PT2399, TC1044SCPA, TL062, TL072, TL074

So, here's my stock acquisition plan to set me up with the basics but without spending too much up front.

Resistors:

• I bought a bulk pack of 1/4W metal film from Joe Knows Electronics at Amazon – USD$20 for 860 resistors.

Capacitors (10 of each value):

• Ceramics - MLCC only. TDK or Murata CG0 – 4.7-820pF.
• Film – EPCOS or WIMA box caps, 5mm lead spacing. 1nF-1uF.
• Electros – Panasonic, Nichicon or Lelon. 1uF-100uF. 5mm height where possible. Min 25V, 1,000 hour rated,1.5-2.5mm lead spacing.

Others:

• Diodes & LEDs – assorted pack from Smallbear or Tayda.
• ICs – DIP8 sockets. Will buy ICs per-project to start with.
• Pots & trimmers – Per-project to start with.
• Audio Jacks – per project to start with but buy a few extras each time to build up stock.
• Enclosures & knobs – Per-project to start with.
• Power – Battery snaps and power jacks.
• Transistors – As needed. Ge from known good sources like Smallbear.

I'm familiar with most of the common suppliers and have bought stuff from Digi-Key and Mouser in the past.

Is this a good starting point or have I over-analysed things!
Very happy to hear feedback and suggestions on values, brands, missing items etc.

Hi everyone,
Thought I'd better check in after lurking for a little while and then buying some boards from MBP.
I'm an Aussie living in beautiful New Zealand, getting back into amp and pedal building after an absence of a few years.
I build my first pedal in 2012 from a BYOC kit and it worked first time. The idea was that the pedal build would be "training wheels" for building an amp.

In hindsight I didn't quite appreciate the gap between the skills needed to put together a BYOC Triboost and the skills needed to knock out a working Blackface Vibrolux Reverb . . . but after much swearing and patient assistance from a few kind souls, it all came together.

I hadn't scratched the pedal itch though so I'm looking to get back into it by building one of every significant Fuzz Pedal known to man, starting with a Ge FuzzFace.

It's also a chance to collaborate with my wife who is a very talented artist. She'll be in charge of the artwork and we're looking forward to trying out a few different techniques.

Here's a shot of the BYOC TriBoost: