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Continuity behaves as expected. I replaced r9, r10, r11, c4, C5 and the bass pot again (just incase i had a bad batch, this time from a different supplier). Ive also reflowed in that area and checked for any bridges.

Would replacing r12 and C7 be worthwhile?

Ive also added another jumper from from c7 to c8 and IC1. Continuity was fine in that area but there was some part of the traces that were removed when etching. (i swear this is the last time i use jumpers, would rather just re-etch. It never works out well for me!)

Didn't find no schematic at web. Any picture to offer?

Its one of madbeans etch layouts, here's a a pic of the schem from the build doc. Cheers!

Just finished building the Quasar V3. Had a few issues with the etch but i've added some jumpers and the circuit seems to be 90% working. But i have some issues i would like advice on

1) The drive knob is working counter clockwise. Is this normal? ie i get more gain turning clockwise.

2) if i have the bass knob over 95% the volume drops. Ive replaced the pot and i still have the issue.

Ok, thanks! Ive put the 1k back in R19.

Thanks lads got it working. Replaced R19, IC2 and teh speed pot. Then reflowed that area. Also installed a switch for the mod (regretted not doing so the first time). I've changed the value of R19, that will only effect the brightness of that led right?  Not audio?

Cheers!

Here are some pics (forgot to add them to the last post)

I have to agree. Sounds wicked.

That clr you mention, that's for the modulation correct? I used the xvive vtl5c3 instead of a ldr/led for that. As you can see ive jumpered the switch that controls the mod (always on). The only thing that looks suspect (to me) is D2, see the shorter leg is on the anode side, pretty sure i just clipped the anode but not the cathode after install (trimming the leads with wire cutters). Surely, the led wouldnt work if it was in the wrong way?

Just finished up the multiplex Jr from 1776 but the rate led isn't blinking. It just stays lit the whole time.

Pedal sounds great. Modulation is working and the epth/speed knobs are working too. What should I be looking for to get the rate light blinking. I've jumpered the switch (having modulation always on) could that be why?

Thanks!

Yeah, i looked at a few gut shots of completed builds and it seems people are using mlcc caps for the nf values. Just ordered a bunch from Tayda.

Thanks for your help!

Edit: Wrong post, sorry for the bump.

Would i be correct thinking i need 2.5mm lead spacing (pitch) caps? If so do you have any recommendations on where to buy, i cant seem to find them from my normal sources (Tayda, DIYGP, Pedalpartsaus)?

*also noticed i posted this in the wrong section, i meant to post in etchers paradise.

I managed to use 5mm (lead spacing) box caps for the Cavedweller 1 & 2. But it looks like i'll need to order some smaller caps for the Dub edition. Whats recommended? I have low profile elec's but will need to grab somethings for the NF values?

Thanks!

Built the 2015 version last night. Sounds great, can see why people like it so much. Next up is the 2012 dub version.

Just finished the 2012 version, man what a sound!

It does pretty much what the DBD i talked about in the OP but then makes it way more useful as the control give so much range. Cant wait to hear the dub version and the 2015. Cant have to may delays on the board can you? Well, im going to find out!

Wish i socketed a few of the parts so i could to try out some mods for it. I'll probably make another and play with it while im waiting on the other parts to turn up.

Thanks again Brian, this is one cool delay!

Hell yeah, thanks man!

Just need to order some trimmers and i'll be making this asap. Ive got the 2012 almost fully populated, will be grabbing some parts for it today. Unfortunately Jaycar doesnt sell the trimmers i need for the 2015 so i'll have to order them online.