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http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=48561&p=428708#p428708

Good Day All,

I don't post here a great deal, but there a few that do that can vouch for me to those who are unfamiliar.

I have headed a group buy annually for a few years for DIYers like us to pool our money and purchase needed parts as a group for less than we can as individuals.

This year, we will be focusing on 3PDTs and 1/4 jacks.

The parent thread can be found HERE.

Thanks for looking!

Chris

Vol Lug 2 = Out

Just be careful, there are two types of on-on-on DPDT switches, which connect different lugs on the center position:



I think Mark from tagboardeffects used a DPDT on-on-on with a jumper to replace the SP3T on his Riot layout, so if a SP3T is what you need, it looks like the best solution.

^^^THIS^^^

I just got bitten by that monster last week. I had 10 switches that did NOT do what I wanted. I figured a work-around, but Croquet Hoop speaks the truth!

Was working on a pedal tonight, plugged it in to test  and had a 100uF electrolytic explode on me! Anybody else ever have this happen?

I was working this summer on a DIY P/S that I built 25 years ago. I had overloaded it and blew up a cap. Replaced the cap, but had not identified any other defects caused by my misuse of the P/S.

I used the correct cap, and the polarity was correct. The voltage rating was more than adequate (according to the original build docs).

I powered it up after replacing the cap, and it sounded like a .22 went off in my face, and the metal jacket BARELY missed my face.

I do not have that P/S anymore.

ESPECIALLY if you are contemplating relying on FOH amplification, make your builds switchable. You need options, man. (Bass player since the Federal Minimum Wage was $3.35/hr)

I don't always play guitar, but when I do, I do not use a capo.

I understand the reasons some do. I just grew up playing bass.

I Beta tested a DIY Ginger board last year. Sent it on to someone else, but I will say it truly got me to Jack Bruce territory. Great circuit!

Here's the deal:

I have some good friends that are going to try and book a string of gigs from Oregon to Mardi Gras.

Youtube of the band playing at The Whiskey a Go Go last week

Band's web page

The bassist and lead guitar player are guys I have known and played with occasionally for about 20 years. Built them a few pedals and done some repair work on their gear from time to time.

I am also friends with the band's manager, and I ran into him last night. We talked about the gig at the Whiskey, and he told me that the guys want to try to book a string of gigs to get them from Oregon to Mardi Gras. I told him I know a few guys in and around Texas, and I would start a thread and see if I could get him any recommendations.

Please post your suggestions, and PM me for contact info for the manager.

Thanks in Advance!

Moving my daughter to her new apartment. She will be a Junior at Oregon State this year.

Possibly drinking.

I fully agree with this..I switched over to using a linear pot for the volume as well. I really didn't like how the audio taper dialed in the last 50 percent of its range..especially since my muffs sit at volume max

Not to contradict myself, but the Magic Man IS correct in that you will quite probably find a linear taper more forgiving when trying to dial tone, owing to that fact that the resitance changes, well, in a linear fashion as you dial the knob, whereas an audio taper WILL tend to bunch the effacacy of the pot toward the last third of the rotation.

And I do recognize that BMPs were shipped with Linear pots. My point was on to clarify that, notwithstanding ease of use and orientation of the actual knobs, a 100K pot is a 100K pot, regardless of taper.

If a particular setting for the Vol - Tone - Sustain pots were to be, let's say, 75K for each pot, what the OP is saying is that the KNOBS will be pointing at approximately 2 O'clock with a Linear taper, whereas  Audio taper pots will be pointing closer to 4 O'clock.

But provided the pots are within spec, meaning that resistance between full CCW = 0K and full CW 100K, you CAN get identical sounds. The knobs won't look the same, but the circuit does not care. 75K = 75K, no matter how you get there.

cb

The 'WARP' is the insanity that happens when you engage the momentary SPST stomp switch.

It seems to me that you could get there with a DPDT moentary stomp and some sareful wiring of the Bi-color LED.

I haven't done it, but it seems plausible.

DO you have a link to the layout you are using? There are a few of them out there.

20k will be fine!