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Messages - greysun

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1
Build Reports / Self-etched Cavedweller and Bass BB
« on: April 15, 2018, 03:22:05 PM »
I already posted a couple pics of the Cavedweller in general questions, so Iíll do the bass bb first...





I could never find a good bass distortion or overdrive. A Chicago band I liked called Oh My God used an old Rat pedal, but that wasnít working for me. I always thought dinosaur jr did a great job with bass OD, and I finally saw that Lou was using a bass BB. Done.

I had almost all the parts on-hand, and used a schematic I found online to get a board into Eagle (its the same one that a British company uses to make their own clone board). This was a HARD circuit to layout. I ended up using 1 jumper, but figured out while soldering I probably could have avoided it by making the board maybe 1/8Ē longer. Oh well. AND, if Iíd really wanted, I could have board mounted 9mm pots in the current design, but didnít have them in the right specs, so thisíll do. I also used up 2 very large .1u caps Iím desperately trying to use that wouldnít be used otherwise.

Not my cleanest switch wiring, but it works, so Iím good.

As for the Cavedweller, I wanted to make something my voice/guitar mentor could use in his classes - he teaches Floyd, Radiohead, rockabilly, so it made sense. (He loved it, btw, and was touched - goal achieved). I etched this one because, as I said earlier, these .1u caps need to go and the only way is to make my own boards. I also wanted practice using press-n-peel for a switch circuit I designed.





As for press-n-peel: it works, but itís not foolproof. Patience, a good printer, the ability to course correct and a good permanent marker are key factors to success. I think the etched boards turned out pretty good, and this was way easier for me than the photo-resist method. Once the boards were ironed on, I just filled in the blank spots with 2 layers of permanent marker, then etched with ferric chloride (I had this from when I etched some boards in 2013. I didnít think it would last this long, but etching only took about 6min).

Of course, etching boards isnít something Iím super into, so hopefully I only do it for my switch, run out of materials, and never worry about it again, hehe. Hereís the boards:





There you have it! Good times.

2
General Questions / Re: Cavedweller dirt in repeats...
« on: April 15, 2018, 02:58:24 PM »
In case anyone is wondering what it looks like under the hood...



I had a ton of those huge .1u caps and wanted to use them (tossing them is wasteful). I also wanted to test out using press-n-peel for an arduino switch, so this is the result. (I also etched and built a bass BB, but Iíll post that in another area).

I still had to use low profile jacks and set it up kinda like a 1590a, but in a 1590b. Either way, cool to do it one sided with no jumpers. Teacher loved it, and thatís all I can ask for. :-) said it would be good for his rockabilly class.

If I build another one for myself (which could be likely), Iíll order it from madbean. This was fun, but ultimately a pain, and Iíd rather the smaller enclosure.


3
General Questions / Re: Cavedweller dirt in repeats...
« on: April 09, 2018, 08:31:50 AM »
This is about what I thought, and I think I'll leave it as is. Don't get me wrong - this is a cool pedal! I was playing a version of a fingerpicked Owen song (playing possum for a peek, if you're curious) on a jazzmaster through it, and the effect was pretty amazing.

On my own board, I use a 1776 multiplex and love it. I think I only use one of the settings, so I may soon get the single version of that.

I'm also going to pat myself on the back for getting the circuit right without breadboarding it first, and getting the etch right with that press-n-peel stuff (and a sharpie). Next up is a Bass BB I etched alongside it, then an Arduino switch (that's gonna be fun - 9 loops, true bypass, programmable with LCD - coded and ready for breadboarding!). YAY!

Thanks for the insight, guys!

4
General Questions / Cavedweller dirt in repeats...
« on: April 08, 2018, 11:42:32 AM »
hey there!

I finally just built a cave dweller. Full disclosure: I etched a custom version because I have a bunch of .1uf poly caps that are 7 through holes wide (aka, HUGE) and needed to use them up. I also wanted something to test out the press-n-peel method of etching before I make a custom switch. This will go into a 1590B. (an aside: I hate etching boards, so it's rare, but this went well. The vast majority of my pedal board is madbean fabricated, though, hehe).

So it's built - it functions - it's pretty cool, actually, BUT... The initial swipe of the guitar is pretty clean, but the repeats seem to have a little dirt or something in them, especially when the delay is longer. I got Q1 drain to 6.24V with a maxed out trimmer. I'm using a green diffused LED with the PT2399. I swapped the PT2399 already just to be sure. Pins 3 and 4 are both connected to ground per the schematic (initially I only had pin 3 connected to the LED, but then connected it also to pin 4).

I read that it has "dark tones" in some reviews, and I know it's supposed to be a more lo-fi delay per the schematic. It's pretty neat either way, and this is a gift for my voice instructor to use while teaching, so it will work fine in that regard, but am curious if there's something I can do to clean it up a bit.

If anyone has any thoughts, or if this should be in another area of the forum, let me know. And, as always, thanks in advance for any help!

5
General Questions / PCB manufacturing
« on: January 15, 2018, 10:16:43 AM »
hey everyone!

I need to get a couple somewhat large PCBs made: approx 2.1" x 16.65". Looking through reviews, it seems like itead and seeed are the best options - though seeed allows for a custom size, and itead won't let me put in my custom dimensions. The online tool said that 10 of them would be $37.

Is seeed good quality? If so, are there any notes for setup for someone ordering the first time and wanting it go smoothly? Pad size? trace size? additions that just can't be lived without?

The reason why I'm asking? Well... Aside from most of my pedalboard consisting of madbean-based projects, this one is actually related to a switch to control them...

I got a pedalsync9 system working, but it didn't function quite how I wanted. It only allowed for one loop at a time, and wasn't programmable. I could get parts/new boards to update it, but that was pricy. It also mutes the audio signal during the switch (to avoid a pop noise, as is common with relays), but it's too long and not adjustable.

I liked the higher quality parts from the pedalsync, however, which I can reuse, and the idea behind it. Some sleuthing led me to an Arduino project online, which was programmable and much more flexible. So I combined the good aspects of the pedalsync (the photofet muting, quality relay, etc), added an LCD screen and coded an ArduinoMega to program, store and recall any combination of 9 loops (each with 9 effects, in order - doesn't rearrange) in 11 banks (so 99 different combinations of 9 effects... Why you'd need 99, I don't know, but the code let me do it, so it does it). All true bypass, LCD display, customizable mute length (so it actually is inaudible), more options for LEDs and relatively easy to build, all things considered.

Breadboarding went well using LEDs and pushbuttons. Great in theory, but I'm waiting on some parts to see how the sound works out (the opto module, some transistors, etc.). The pedalsync had a lot of hum/buzz in it, and that's been a complaint from some (not all) of the original Arduino system from which I based this project, as well. I'm hopeful that with the higher quality parts and an effort to keep the audio signal truly separate from the digital signal, I can make this work, and it never hurts to try something new, right?

I designed a single sided PCB, which has a couple jumpers, but with a 2-sided, it would only need one. Obviously not final, as I'm waiting on some parts to breadboard, but just getting a head start.

If there are other, better options for PCB manufacture, I'd love to hear them. :-) And if anyone has built something similar, I'd love to see it!

As always, thank you in advance!

6
General Questions / Re: Multi-pedal / All-in-One question...
« on: January 04, 2018, 01:51:45 PM »
I can't see pickdropper's pedal, but good to read the posts on this stuff to see where people may hiccup.

I have a crazy idea, and I either need to be talked off the ledge, or pushed onto it! I like the idea of a delay, tremolo and distortion. The problem comes back to the age old debate: trem before or after distortion? delay before or after distortion?

I, personally, like tremolo before distortion, and delay after (maybe the other way around - can't remember without looking at my board - ANYWAY...)

I came up with an idea using a 6PDT rotary switch where in position one, the audio signal is INPUT > DISTORTION > DELAY > OUTPUT (tremolo is off), and in position 2, it's INPUT > TREMOLO > DISTORTION > OUTPUT (delay is off).

This way, distortion is always available, my preferred order of operations is always upheld, the switching is still true bypass, all the LEDs still work AND I only need 2 footswitches so I can have a tap tempo for the tremolo. Here's a hastily made diagram (sorry if they're too big) - I know it's crazy, but please help me figure out if it can be done!


7
General Questions / Re: Multi-pedal / All-in-One question...
« on: January 03, 2018, 03:43:12 PM »
The 1790 is smaller than a 1590DD and does great with 3 1590B sized effects.

1790
https://lovemyswitches.com/1590xx-1790ns-enclosure-bare-aluminum/

1590DD
https://lovemyswitches.com/1590dd-enclosure-bare-aluminum/

For some build reference, here are 2 builds of mine, each with 3 foot switches:
1790 - http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21618
1590DD - http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=23022

the 1790 looks like it's basically the same size as the 6500, give or take a millimeter - and based on your build pics, I think it'll work... I have a much better sense of it now.

Thanks for all the help, guys! Probably February for the build by the time I get all the parts and some time to get down to it, but will definitely post pics. Thanks again! :-)

8
General Questions / Re: Multi-pedal / All-in-One question...
« on: January 03, 2018, 01:47:54 PM »
Do yourself a big favor and use a 1590DD instead. Life is too short to try and put 3 in a BB. The extra size won't matter in a studio setting, and it will save you many headaches.  :)

Truth, but a 1590DD is huge. However, this did get me looking, and I found a slightly larger than 1590BB size in a 6500 enclosure, which is about an inch wider and taller that I might try out. https://www.mammothelectronics.com/products/4s6500-enclosure

That could get me out of trouble. Thanks!:-)

9
General Questions / Re: Multi-pedal / All-in-One question...
« on: January 03, 2018, 11:09:50 AM »
Wow - this forum always comes through! Thanks a lot for the suggestions and posts, guys!

After multiple suggestions, the Runt (with a reutz mod, of course) will take care of distortion. He teaches a lot of floyd and radiohead, so a cavedweller delay is also in.

He's worked with me to get better picking and volume control, especially while singing (hard to break bad habits after 23 years of playing), and he's mentioned it affects many other students, so I feel like any compressor wouldn't be used (again, for teaching - gigging is another story, but I don't think he'd use this for gigging - open to persuasion, but just mentioning).

I do have a pretty good schematic for a simple LFO tap tremolo, but not sure how small I could get it.

Since the idea is that this is a teaching aid, I wonder if 3 stomps is too much. I feel like the delay and tremolo would rarely (if ever) be used at the same time, so I wonder if 2 stomps would suffice - one for the runt, the other for the delay/tremolo, with a simple toggle at the top edge to switch between delay and tremolo effects. I could put the tap for the tremolo either into a small 1590a with an 1/8" jack connector, or just put a small pushbutton up top someplace.

As always, any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks again, guys!

10
General Questions / Multi-pedal / All-in-One question...
« on: January 03, 2018, 08:52:37 AM »
Happy new year, everyone!

I've been taking some voice lessons with a great teacher the last few months, and wanted to say thanks with a gift of sorts. I figure a pedal is apt, but can't figure out which one...

Then I had the idea to maybe put 3 baby boards horizontally into a 1590BB and give him something he can have/leave in his teaching room that has some useful effects.

I can swear I've seen someone do this, but can't find it.

I'm thinking a cavedweller, rabbit hole and egghead would cover quite a bit of sonic territory, but would love to hear any thoughts on a better combo? Would love a tremolo w/ tap in there, but I don't think a baby board exists with such functionality...

I'm also not sure how to wire it up just yet. I'd like to be able to switch the effects on/off. Maybe a main stomp on the right, and an A/B/Y on the left? Might just have to use some toggles up above, which is simple enough.

Any thoughts/advice would be great! As always, thank you in advance!

11
General Questions / Re: cave dweller and the 50k trimpot...
« on: December 17, 2017, 06:12:52 PM »
20k might be enough, or it might not. What I would do is leave the trimmer empty, then simply try a few resistors in there to see what gets you the closest match for biasing then use a fixed resistor. The trick is you don't have to use a socket or solder them in when testing. Just make sure both leads are contacting the pads while you measure the resulting voltage on the drain.

hmmm... in that case, would it be easier to use a 50k normal size pot to get the voltage right, then figure out that resistance and then just get the closest match resistor-wise?

12
General Questions / cave dweller and the 50k trimpot...
« on: December 17, 2017, 05:47:05 PM »
I've decided to figure out how to use up all my excess parts collecting dust. I'll build up some stuff I didn't think I wanted, but hear good things about... up first: CAVEDWELLER!

I have everything but the 50k trimpot. I have a 20k trimpot, a few 10k trimpots, and a 2m trimpot.

I know you can extend a pots value, but that seems iffy to me since this is to get the voltages right into the pt2399.

Thoughts on a remedy?

one thought I had: I have all kinds of resistor values, and could just socket the trimpot and see which resistor works best, but that might be excessive.

any thoughts or guidance here? Hoping I can make it work... :-)

as always: thank you in advance!

13
General Questions / Re: Mudbunny/Mayo Mids
« on: December 07, 2017, 08:02:08 AM »
I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

Very old thread, but does anyone know if you use this method if you need to remove the R18 resistor? Some methods on here have you removing it and others don't. Sounds like you remove it, but just want to be sure.

Also, would I want to change C10 to 22n here? Again, that is the suggestion on other threads (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2919.msg24741#msg24741), but not mentioned here.

thank you!

JR

Oh, and you remove r18 altogether in this version... one pad goes to lug 1 of the pot, and the other pad goes to lug 3 of the pot.

Again, thatís how i did mine, and it works, but maybe thereís a new and fancier way, hehe...

14
General Questions / Re: Mudbunny/Mayo Mids
« on: December 07, 2017, 07:59:59 AM »
I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

Very old thread, but does anyone know if you use this method if you need to remove the R18 resistor? Some methods on here have you removing it and others don't. Sounds like you remove it, but just want to be sure.

Also, would I want to change C10 to 22n here? Again, that is the suggestion on other threads (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2919.msg24741#msg24741), but not mentioned here.

thank you!

JR

Iím not 100% sure, but I think the change value for c10 in diamonds schematic was related to the pot going all the way to zero and causing issues with the tone control... with Brianís mod, by putting the 4k7 resistor on lugs one and two of the 25k pot, it keeps c10 from having issues with tone.

Either way, I built 4 different muds with that mod and it worked fine each time. I found that I really donít use it much, to be honest, but I like having the option.

I would suggest socketing and seeing what you like. I socketed an entire board so I could play with all the values and find something I really liked in the different versions. It helped a lot.

Separately, but related, I switched over to the pig butt cause I liked the ic version better, but I always find myself reaching for my mud bunnies here and there...

Hope that helps!

15
The epic looper looks awesome - and I remember seeing it a few times over the last couple years... but I have 7 loops plus a JamMan looper, so that was never a match. I also came across the BYOC super8 this weekend, and it looks interesting, but I'm not sure I could modify it to control 2 audio lines. I could always use DPDT momentary's with it, but then that's a bit pricy for 2 units and I'm not sure it would with that interface.

If I could find a verified octaswitch schematic, I'd just mod it to use each footswitch with a 16 position DIP, but none seem to be verified out there. I may just need to lower my expectations, hehe.

as for why I'd want to control 2 audio lines - I have a stereo setup with my guitar: bridge and neck to one amp (tube), middle to a different amp (solid state). Why did I build my guitar that way? lots of reasons, but mostly so I could get the best of both amp worlds, and have a bit more control with mids when I use fuzz pedals live (I know, it sounds like it doesn't make sense, but the sound is so much better this way).

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