Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - lars

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 38
Build Reports / Re: Dandy Horse
« on: Today at 03:08:37 PM »
Very, very nice. I was wondering if anybody made a pcb for the PolyChorus. I'll have to take a look at what Lectric-fx has to offer these days!

Open Discussion / Re: Blackened is the end
« on: August 08, 2018, 12:11:03 AM »

Open Discussion / Re: Gigging members, opinion wanted
« on: July 26, 2018, 11:19:14 PM »
Years ago a co-worker of mine sang a reply to somebody who was making an unreasonable demand on a job site. It was one of the most melodiously punk lyrics I've ever heard sung:
Que the shot of Jager and jam on! ;D

Some great info about it can be found here:
One thing I found interesting was this statement:  "American companies will be allowed to apply for an exemption from the tariff." How many do you think will actually apply for exemption, get it, but not pass on the savings? This is a classic move. "We absolutely must jack up our prices because of "X" excuse".

Open Discussion / Re: Favorite reverb projects?
« on: July 17, 2018, 08:02:56 AM »
One thing to consider:  if you're not digging your amp's built-in digital reverb, then building yet another digital reverb in pedal form will probably disappoint as well. The only option to get the reverb you want is to build a real spring reverb unit, which is surprisingly easy to do. I use an LM386-based circuit that has both level and dwell controls. This runs a full-size "4" series reverb tank that is mounted under my pedalboard. You would think that would be a nightmare of bumps and bangs, but amazingly I can kick my pedalboard and get no shockwave explosion sounds out of the tank.
And yes, it does the huge Dick Dale type reverb sounds very well.

Ah! The Giant Hogweed has a Rat in there. The Rat circuit is notorious for being a howler. I really like the sound of it, but in my setup I could never get a Rat to work without tons of high-pitch squeeling, even at lower volumes. I would research anything on how people were able to tame a Rat, and apply those things to your setup.

I've used JB Weld to fill in misdrills and also to redrill an old enclosure for recycling into a new pedal.  It works pretty well.  An example:
Before repainting (I did add a bit more JB Weld to fill in some divots after I took this pic).

+1 on this. I've used this same method and it definitely works. I haven't had any problems with the JB weld "plug" cracking or falling out. It seems to be nearly as tough as the original aluminum.

Today is the first day I've gotten a notification for something being posted in B/S/T in about 3 years. I don't know what was updated, but I'm glad it's working again.
I did notice this note in the email:  "More topics may be posted, but you won't receive more email notifications until you return to the board and read some of them."
How many posts is "some of them"?

That 800mAh is REALLY misleading. The thing has 2 420mAh lithium cells in it. Therefore, they said "well 2 times 420 is like 800!"

But LiPo cells are 3.7V. So to get 9V out you need a bit of a boost. At 9V the capacity is only about 345mAh. Which is fine for pedals, but it means you will be recharging fairly often.

The bigger problem is the boost converter will insert some noise into the system, not the dead steady output of a true 9V.
That is all disappointing (I watched the YouTube video about the tear down of one of these batteries). It has all the drawbacks you mention. It still might be a great option for a low-drain fuzz pedal, since it's capacity is about twice that of a standard alkaline 9v. It looks like "IpowerUS" lipo's don't have a booster circuit in them, so they would be a better option for noise-critical applications. Unfortunately, you can't charge those with a standard USB cord though.

Open Discussion / Lipo USB rechargeable batteries in 9v form factor
« on: July 09, 2018, 11:28:42 PM »
I didn't know these things even existed, but it's about time! These will be a slam dunk for guitar pedal use. They're the same size as a standard 9v battery, but have much higher mAh ratings (up to 800!). You can say goodbye to noisy/cheap wall warts. Just plug in a standard micro-usb cord to charge it. Brilliant!

Build Reports / Re: Lots of issues with madbean projects.
« on: July 08, 2018, 11:30:48 AM »
Check your ground points, and if in doubt, resolder them or sand them. Sand out the drill holes of your input and output jacks so the sleeves get good contact. I've fixed a few dead effects simply by doing those steps. (nice when that's all you have to do to fix something you got for cheap because it didn't work.)
The other thing to check is when the opposite you don't want to conduct are conducting. All it takes is a stray tiny speck of solder, tiny wire strand, or the bottom plate of the enclosure touching a part you didn't expect it to touch. The board may have shifted after a few stomps, and now a trace/component/terminal is touching a ground point.

Yeah, that sound is.... It actually sounds a lot like a bad flanger pedal that tripped over a theremin:  (think the default "flanger" setting on cheap digital effects that are built into combo amps).

Yeah, I remember when Ledbetter Heights came out in '95, and KWS was very popular then. That was also when the whole SRV scene was extremely popular as well. I think he got pigeonholed simply as an "SRV clone", so his popularity quickly faded as the 90's came to a close.

Open Discussion / Re: Reverb Class A Article
« on: July 01, 2018, 08:57:16 AM »
Hey, every piece of gear at some point sounds "the best"...until you really put it to the test in the real world. Then you find out that maybe that amp doesn't have enough punch. Maybe it feeds back in the particular space you need to use it in. Maybe that $800 overdrive sounds exactly like that $25 overdrive when you mix it in a recording.
The endless debates/myths/misconceptions about gear will continue to rage on, despite the massive evidence that no particular design or setup works "the best" for all situations.
The most important class is the "this is what works for me" class.

Open Discussion / Re: Help me with my PRS
« on: June 10, 2018, 09:24:32 AM »
Thanks guys, I didnít even k ow a magnet swap was a thing.
Yeah, I didn't know about swapping magnets in humbuckers either until about two weeks ago. I had one of those Epiphone HOTCH bridge pickups that sounded terrible. It was thin and bright with no punch, even though it measured around 16K! In that case, I made it into a hybrid-type humbucker in which I put alnico V slugs into the non-adjustable coil side, then cut the bar magnet down and moved it to the outside of the adjustable screws coil (where the plastic spacer usually is). Now it is one of my favorite-sounding pickups...kind of sounds like a P90/hot strat single coil, but with zero hum.

Another simple mod to always consider is just changing the resistance of the volume pots. I know many people swear by 250k pots for everything, but my experience has been that the volume pot resistance should be adjusted based on the pickup resistance. Pickups in the 5-10k range sound great with 250k pots, but when you start bumping up to high-output humbuckers in the 12-18k range, the pots really should be 500k - 1Meg, IMHO.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 38