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So I built the Blueshift chorus (dimension C) a couple of months ago and thought it sounded pretty good in mono. I only owned 1 tube amp, bir after constantly hearing that the pedal really shines in stereo I decided it was time to build my first amp.
So here is my newly built 5e3 to go with the blueshift and yes stereo is where this pedal really shines

Very interesting Phaser, definitely as strange as the ADA flanger and quite flange like for a phaser.
I would recommend using the expression jack, very strange sounds.
Great project

Are there any other charge pump options for the VFE projects that require one than the tc7662? Same question with the 5 volt voltage regulator, could you use a 78l05?
I am being lazy and will admit I haven't looked up any data sheets for pin outs etc.
I was hoping someone might already knower investigated already.
Thanks

This is from forum member diablochris6 and is 2 x meatball/mutron filters in series on the same PCB. 1 is hard wired to sweep up and the other in the down direction resulting in a vocal/formant filter type sound. If that's not enough he also added a switchable LFO for both sides and an order switcher for the 2 filter circuits!
It is a whole lot of fun and sounds both wacky and great. It is not my neatest wiring job and I spent a whole 5 minutes labelling the top but it's a keeper for sure.
I had a few different Ldr types and found some 2meg dark types I got from futurlec for a doppelgänger build sound best so far. Because I used a bright blue led for the LFO indicator and it flashes all the time I made some shields for the ldrs so there is no interference, 1 is off for the picture.
Thanks Chris for a great project.

I have seen some VFE pedals use a latching 4.5 volt DPDT relay and others us a 5 volt.
what type should be used for these projects? I have already ordered a couple of the Panasonic TQ2-L-4.5v, hoping I can use them.
hoping to see the first lot released soon!

Here are the other 2 successful modulation builds of 2017.
AlanP's Infinitpase clone and Lectricfx Dandy Horse.
I was a bit shocked that I could get them both working and setup properly, they both sound incredible and thanks goes out to both parties for designing such fantastic projects.

I have been involved in this hobby for a little over 3 years now and have had quite a few failures with more complex modulation type pedals.
At the beginning of 2017 I had another go at the ADA flanger after 2 failed Flintlock builds over the years (my crappy building, no fault of lectricfx) This PCB came from Justin at Black Horse effects and it works!
From there I tried 2 even more complex builds with complete success also!
So 2017 seems to be the year I have finally come of age with my building so I thought I would post a few in the build reports. My next mission is to start decorating and designing my enclosures.
ADA flanger:

I am building a Woodstork and rangemaster in the same box. They both have voltage inverters to provide -9v for the past transistors and I wanted to know if I can eleminate one of the charge pumps. I am using a double foot switch pcb as it makes the wiring a lot easier as I am incorporating an order switcher also.
So the power goes into the foot switch pcb then out to the 2 circuits each with there own voltage inverter. Can I take the -9 volt off 1 board and use it to power the 2nd one?
If I don't use the charge pump on 1 of the circuits would that change where the power enters the circuit?
I have also thought about using a road rage before the power enters the foot switch pcb
To provide the circuits with -9v but am still a bit unsure of the question above 'where to enter the power on the 2 circuits if not using the charge pumps.
Hope I haven't made this to confusing, any help appreciated.
Jules

Hi members, I built a grind customs fluff girl (bassballs clone) recently and the 3 Tayda lm1458 I had wouldn't work in it.
I pulled a verified Rca lm1458 I had out of another build and it worked fine.
I am building I clone of the Cornish duplex now that needs an lm1458 also, I won't be using the Tayda as I guess they are fakes and possibly a different if altogether.
I have ordered a couple of MC1458 Small Bear sells as a replacement.
Will these function and sound exactly the same as the lm1458 or should I hunt down the extinct lm1458 somewhere?

Has anybody cloned the old Tychobrahe Parachute Wah or know if there is a PCB available to do so?

Does anyone know how crucial the 16k resistor at R25 in the Collosalus is?
I was going to substitute it for 15k as it is more common and I have 1.
Thanks in advance for any replies

Hi Folks, I am interested in knowing if I can modify the Sawse for an up/down switch like the DOD440 reissue envelope filter.
If any of the technical gurus on the forum could look into it and let me know would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Sun lion on Black Horse 1968 board.
Some mojo caps and resistors, gt309 in the fuzz face, OC42 in the Beano.
It started off neater but I made some stupid mistakes and had to take the whole lot out a couple of times. Sounds Great.
Thanks to Justin at Black Horse for this

I have built DRolos Giant Hogweed and I love the sound of the distortion and octave up section...but the octave down shoes not appear to be working.
I have double checked parts value, re flowed and tried a few different tl072.
I accidentally took a big piece of the board out with my step drill (don't ask!)
It is at the top left and I have added a jumper that has fixed 1 part of the broken track.
If David himself happens to see this post 'could the damaged board be contributing to my lack of octave down? Every other pot functions as it should.

sorry, can't seem to get photos up right now

Alan's Nameless Flanger in a purple Hammond box as tribute to the Lovetone original.
I haven't applied decals yet, I was to keen to finish it!
I put the indicator LEDs in backwards but after I fixed that it works great, a lot of bizarre sounds in here!
Thanks Alan

Drolo's Liquid Mercury Phaser, it sounds fantastic and I love the extra functions available on it like the tap tempo, square wave, random etc.
I usually just label plain boxes with a metal stamp but occasionally I buy a couple of the real hammonds that are powder coated with my Mouser order.
The Blue ended up being too dark for me to use decals so I had to resort to labels and paint pen. It looks pretty shabby but certainly doesn't sound that way!
Might just be the best Phaser I have made yet.

Hi all, I don't have a 680pf cap for the current lover.
I have a 560pf and an 820pf polystyrene, does it need a 680 or will either of these suffice?
I also don't have a 13k for R16, I do have 12k.
If anyone can help I much appreciate it.
Thanks

I have been looking into building some flangers after going on a bit of a phaser binge last year.
Are the bl3207 and v3207 basically identical to the mn3207 in regards to performance.
Do people have a preference? Are there any to be avoided?
If anyone has any info it would be appreciated, thanks

Hi, I have a bit of a noob question I was hoping someone could help me with.
I am building the Sparklehorn need to know which way to orientate c8 and c9.
They are LEDs that are in the circuit.
Does the long or short leg of the LED go in the square pad?
Do all madbean Pcbs follow The same rule in regards to this?
Thanks for any help