Topics

Hey guys, I'm looking for a 3D model (to use in Diptrace) for a SPST soft-touch switch, like this! https://www.taydaelectronics.com/spst-momentary-soft-touch-push-button-stomp-foots-pedal-switch.html. Never made my own, but if you guys don't have one I may do that. Thanks for any help you can provide!

I have a friend who had a Thunderbird that only was half working. Based on what he was explaining it sounded like a bad footswitch. After replacing it i've found out that it's something much sneakier, and would love some assistance finding out what it is.

If you don't know, the Thunderbird is like the Double Barrel, it has a Blues Breaker circuit and a TS circuit. Like I said, only half of the pedal works. If I move the board that doesn't come through around enough, I will hear the effect come through for a few seconds at a time, which makes me think it's a loose cable? But I've reflowed almost every cable that connects to the PCB with no luck. I've checked all points I can think of for grounding problems, but it all checks out. Absolutely no disrespect to Keisman, this pedal is super nice, it's just a mess of cable on the inside, which makes it hard to troubleshoot. Does anyone have a thought that might help me? I'll happul post a video I took of the problem.

Hey guys, I'm looking for some resources on how to add a gain knob to an Acapulco Gold circuit. I had some boards fabbed and they work perfectly other than the gain control. It only works with that turned all the way up. It's a 1MC pot and pin 3 is the input, pin 2 is the output, and pin 1 is grounded. If the control isn't totally dimed I get crazy feedback and no guitar signal, but if I turn it all the way up it works great, just a bit too gainy for my application. Anyone have ideas? It's setup like this http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/SunnTAMZ.pdf schematic.

Yesterday I finally got all the parts I needed to test out Coda Effect's relay bypassing schematic. I programmed PIC12F675 to work with a soft touch switch and it worked great the first time around. I was wondering, is anyone else interested in implementing relay bypassing in their pedals but maybe doesn't know how to do the coding portion?
I'd love to either provide folks with the micro-controllers already burnt with the proper code OR even make an in depth tutorial (expanding on Coda's incredible info) on how to implement it. Let me know your thoughts guys.

http://www.coda-effects.com/2016/04/relay-bypass-conception-and-relay.html?showComment=1510840701063#c6018597602149103674 here's the first installment of the relay bypassing code that Coda posted.

Some of you are probably getting tired of my numerous versions of this pedal, but here's the one I'm going to attempt to sell moving forward. Got the printing done at Mammoth, I drilled them myself. Love the look, the circuit is a little quiet, so I'm going to iron that out before I sell them, of course.

Hey all, I'm planning to do quite a few builds in the near future that require the J201 and/or 2N5457. I've read some posts about this but wanted the opinions and experiences you all have had, what are good replacements for those 2 transistors?

Hey guys,
A friend of mine asked me to build him a utility pedal and I wanted to run it by you folks (who are much smarter than I) to idiot check me, and maybe see if I overlooked something that could be improved.

Here's the explanation, sorry I know it will be lengthy:
My friend plays upright and electric bass and want's to use the same pedalboard for both. His electric bass has active pickups so it's naturally a hotter signal than the passive pickup on his upright. He asked me to build him an A/B pedal that has 2 inputs and 1 output. This way he could plug both instruments into the pedal and toggle between them with a footswitch (easy enough). He also wants a boost on either channel with independent level controls because, as I said before, his electric bass is louder than his upright. My plan is this, have 2 inputs that both go to a 4pdt first (I'll explain why), when Channel 1 is engaged it is routed to channel 1 on the circuit board which has a buffer and boost, then to the output and the other input is grounded, and vise versa. The reason I think I need a 4pdt is because I need to control 2 inputs, AND 2 LEDs (I've included a little diagram of how I think I would wired it up). I see this being beneficial for some of my friends who play acoustic and electric and need to control independent levels.

Here are my questions for you:
   1. How does my solution seem? Where are the issues?
   2. Is there a more efficient way to wire up a switch?
   3. Will there be a loud pop when changing inputs even with a pulldown resistor (I tried to low the chances of this by sending the inputs to the switch before it goes to the active circuit)

Related, but less-important question: Do any of you have experience using Neutrik locking jacks on pedals? (I'll be using a 1590BBT). Thanks for all the answers in advance.

Hey guys, I see lots of pedal companies using soft touch switches and relays to engage their pedals. I am in huge favor of this, I think it's innovating past the 3pdt switch for stompboxes. So here's my question, how many of you use relays and what's the best way to do this? I'd love to incorporate this into my builds but never have done it before. Thanks all.

Hey all, I've been designing an Acapolco gold with Gain, Volume, and Tone knobs. Here's the question how do I add a clean blend to my schematic? I know that the "clean blend" question is brought up all the time but I hope I'm being clear that I'm not trying to add a totally separate PCB to my pedal that I splice my in and out to, I'm trying to incorporate the clean blend in my actual PCB design. Make sense?

Incredible layout (madbean you've done it again) and incredible sounding delay. I'm having some minor issues with it but it's mostly done, I'm loving the powder pink enclosure.

Hey guys, I'm in serious need of some help with my aquaboy build. I began the calibration process (by probing the MN3005 to set the bias trim) and got a completely dead signal. No hum from my pickups or anything. I tried just about everything I can imagine. I've included a photo of my board and all my voltages for every IC to prove I'm not crazy. Does anyone have insight into this? I'll gladly answer questions about the build.

Hey all. Here's probably my proudest moment of pedal building. I designed the maple drive last year and have made adjustments that brought me to this iteration. From the left, the controls are Volume, Tone, Drive, and Boost. The boost can be used on its own or as a second gain stage into the maple drive.

Hey guys, I'm trying to decide between buying predrilled enclosures when I get them made or buying a cheaper drillpress to use. The drillpress seems like the better option in terms of money, but will obviously take more time. I'm also a bit unsure as to how to clamp my pedals down if I were to get a press, any advice or insight?

Hey guys, I'm making a PCB version of the runoffgroove Tonemender and was wondering how exactly to wire up the 2PDT switch based on the schematic. I've only ever done SPDT so I'm a bit confused on which lugs correspond to what.

I'm looking for a non-tube preamp pedal. Mainly looks for lots of one shaping options. I know the L5 is amazing but I don't want to start there, maybe one day. I'd love maybe 3-5 knobs for lots of control. Any recommendations?

Hey guys, I'm looking to take my pedals to the next level in terms of quality. I want to buy pre-printed and pre-drilled enclosures that I can just put my circuits into. I have been thinking about using mammoth electronics for those things but I'm not sure if they still do that, there website is different than it used to be. Any insight or recommendations?

Hey guys, I've designed many-a-PCB (in no way am I an expert) but I'm redesigning an older board of mine with board mounted jacks.
Are there any tips I should be aware of in this design process? I'll be using https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-stereo-insulated-switched-socket-jack-pcb.html most likely. My major concern is making the board with the correct spacing so that the holes on the enclosure line up with the jacks after they've been mounted. Thanks guys!

Hey guys, my question is about how to make a solid drill template based on my own PCB. I use Diptrace (and love it) but I'm unsure how to take my finished PCB and turn that into a usable drill template. I love the ones that Brian makes and I'd love to make mine as easy to read (and well structured) as those. Is the easiest way to export something from the PCB software and load that image into photoshop? Or to use the measurements of the board and make an object in photoshop? Here's a photo of the layout, I have the 3pdt's and the enclosure outline in it, so I want to keep all of those measurements the same.

Very interested in making a PCB clone of this (I'm not a vero-builder, I like to make my own PCB's) does anyone have a well labelled schematic of it?

Is the Aquaboy really available for purchase tomorrow (July 20th)? I've been looking forward to building a DM-2 for a long time.