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Hi, just build a second one, but had some issues with this one. Channel switching works, but both channels produce ugliest distored flat sound! Soldering was done very clean, no visible short circuit...

Issues
1. Bypass works, but LED is always on
2. Limit LED is always on
3. Flat distored sound on both channels

ICs:
IC4 - IC9, IC12: RC4558P
IC1: LF356N
IC2, IC13: LM741CN
IC10-IC11: CA3080AE

Semiconductors as described and most of the parts were ordered from Mouser, but replaced some 10% Wima caps mentioned in the parts sheet with 5% Wima caps. The  distored sound seems to be an issue depending on the switchcraft jacks, which obviously do not work properly. They seem to offer some space and the plugs seem to be shaky this way which results in flat and distored sound.


Maybe someone runs into equal issues or has an idea what happens here. I have used a plain enclosure for the first build and a black enclosure sold by aion for this build.

Thanks a lot

U4U

Hi there, have build the Creamy Dreamer with a four pot configuration and 8x 1N914 diodes stack. The tone control acts a bit strange. Full output only with full left or full right setting, in the middle it degrades volume to nearly no output. Maybe someone has an idea what happens here?!

Thx

U4U

Hi, just put it together this weekend, used the Opto-Tron for the switch, only bypass works, got a pulsating or throbbing noise much like a heartbeat running the effect, no effect. I'm using a white H11F1 for the Opto-Tron. Same noise running it with or without the 78L05. The BTDR-H3 seems to be the newer version. It's size is different  from the BTDR-H2 I have. Changed the H11F1 into a black one and tried another white one, same issue, changed the TL072, same issue, changed the 78L05 to one made by Motorola, same issue!  Any ideas? Thank you for help! U4U

Hi there, put the thing together, but the LED doesn't work. Changed resistor for LED, put a new LED in, same result. I have no idea. Someone has the same experience? Thx U4U

Hi there, finished my Echoplex preamp based on Ares PCB by Aion. Above all the requirement was not to use any paint or etching or other technique using chemicals. All the black and white stuff was done using a simple cutting machine and vinyl film.

U4U

Hi there, I'm just building an advanced pre amp now, but some of the pots (2.5 kA) are only avalable with solder lugs for wire. As I do not like to use wire here (they should be PCB mount angeled) I'm thinking about additional solder lugs screwed or soldered to the original solder lugs. These additional solder lugs look like ebay 201858517728. There are many different types available, but I'm absolutly not sure which I should use. I do not like to buy  severeal different types. Maybe someone has experiences in doing it like I intend to and could be of some advice here.

Thank you,

U4U

Hi, have build a few pedals the last days, all work, but the last one is the most simple one and it doesn't work. LED is always ON, but in one case less bright. The preamp doesn't make any noice. I have used the Aion 3pdt bypass board for wiring the switch and wiring was made like shown on the ares project documentation, the are no visible short circuits, all soldering was done well. There must be a short circuit I'm rather sure but I have no idea, maybe someone else?!

Thank you, U4U
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Hi,

I have some trouble with my new Naughty Fish pedal. If I switch the "Range" switch (Up/Down) to the right I get an annoying whistling sound and the second LED is always on and always bright shining. Otherwise it works if I set the switch to the left, but without the second LED light up at all. I need advice here. The second LED is a yellow one, but has the same voltage range as the red one I would use and I used for the bypass indicator. The on/on/on switch seem to have no significant value in left position. I can hear no change to the signal.

Thank you very much, U4U

Hi,

is there a clone PCB available for  T.C. Electronic Sustain + Parametric EQ? Maybe someone knows, I couldn't find one. Extremly nice box, but lost it at a gig month ago.

Thanx, U4U

Hi there, just a question about Grind Customs FX PCB layouts. On some I will use a VTL5C3. The square pad is normally positive (other PCBs than Grind Customs FX), the round is negative. On Grind Customs FX PCBs it is shown vice versa. Is it correct that the square pad is negative here?

Hi there, has anyone an example for wiring the 3PDT correctly to the Swedish chainsaw by Tinnitus industries? Standard wiring like shown for the 3PDT doesn't work, wiring the Swedish chainsaw without the board and no switch directly to the jacks and the power plug works well.

Thank you,

U4U