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I purchased an aftermarket pot, out of consideration for the company I won't specifically mention which I purchased. It's a CTS enclosed plastic no maintenance pot like the new Dunlop Hot Pot. My problem is that it feels as if the gears are grinding or don't fit with the rack (regular crybaby rack) very well. If I loosen the clutch it helps, but the treadle tends to drop to the toe down position on it's own. It behaves this way when it was installed in my V847 as well.

So my question is, do all of these black plastic CTS wah pots have this feel to their "action"? I don't want to buy a Hot Pot if it's going to behave in the same manner. Anyone with experience or ideas why this is happening? Things I could try to amend the issue?

https://musicstorelive.com/dunlop-ecb424b-hot-potz-ii-100k-pot-for-wah-pedals.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUuSnfvgj-8_7WJqJNd0fGwHdOtwQUscePWQW_zPs6R80skF_GA1tZhoCHW4QAvD_BwE

I'm looking to see if anyone has a recommendation for a color laser jet printer that can handle both pnp blue for PCB's, and print water slide decals in color. Looking to keep it under $300, and needs to have adjustable fuser temperature. Thanks in advance for feedback.

Normally, given that I reside in the States, I wouldn't order parts from Das Musikding, only because of potentially long international shipping times. However, they do carry some items that are rather difficult to get a hold of over here, like the Omeg pots. Anyway, the order shipped out on December 20th (12/20/2016), and still hasn't arrived yet. I live in East Texas.  Has anyone else, from the lower 48 States, ordered from them, and about how long did it take for you to receive your order?

I should've ordered multiple painted enclosures last time I shopped there, ouch.

So I've got all of my parts together for this layout, with the exception that I'm using an OC44 instead of an NPN transistor for which the layout calls. And this is important, I would like to use a negative voltage inverter to keep the ability to daishy chain, but still use both a DC jack and a battery snap.

I can't find any wiring diagrams for using a voltage inverter with both dc jack and battery snap. If anyone has one I'd appreciate it, this one has been taking my mind for a spin.

Here is a link to the layout,    http://turretboard.knucklehead.dk/2011/02/28/terminal-npn-rangemaster-with-mods/
The Rangemaster layout and voltage inverter layouts are attached for reference

I'm currently piecing together a build with a booster and an overdrive in one enclosure. I have diagrams to wire the 2 effects up in one enclosure where they can be switched on independently. However, I would like it to include an effects loop so a wah or possibly something else can be inserted in between the booster and wah, but the loop needs to be bypassed when there are no cables inserted/effect in use. I can't seem to find much on wiring pedals with effects loops. Any resources, links, or straight up diagrams would be awesome.

Thanks

I found this in my project folder for the Brejna's Pangea project and I failed to add any information on the purpose of the mod. I'm not sure if it came from this forum, or freestompboxes.org. Has anyone seen this or know where I can find the thread that contains the info on this mod? Or what it is...

In the various Cornish Buffer layouts available around the net, I've found that some list 51Ω and some have 50K or 51KΩ. Has anyone tried both resistors to see if there is a difference, or if one of the two values is actually correct? I'm using 51K as of now, but I don't want to tear the pedal apart to switch that resistor out a couple of times if the difference in tone is negligible.

Examples are attached for reference.

I'm looking for a good economical source of shielded copper wire with a Teflon or other type of jacket that can take solder heat with out melting or shrinking back ( without leaving exposed wire after soldering a connection to a board, pots, etc). Non shielded wire is fine too I'm in the market for both. 20-24 AWG (22 AWG preferred).

Does anyone know of a great source to get this wire or something similar by the foot, rather than buying an entire spool at a time?

Anyone know of a nice  set of "helping hands" either for soldering or fly fishing, besides the usual radio shack type. I've seen the Harbor Freight and some on Ebay with an LED which look nice. However, is there a larger or better set (more than two alligator clips/arms)  that holds in place or the set screws actually work and hold well? Any links are appreciated.

Thanks

Second Sunking II build here, the first worked perfectly, this one doesn't. I'm getting no bypass signal or effect signal, and the LED will not light up either way. The only major difference between this one and the last one parts wise is a different BS 250. The BS 250's I ordered look fake, I bought them off ebay from a US seller as I needed them quickly, over 70 were sold and no one has complained about these transistors on the sellers feedback. I'm going to try to reverse it to see if I got the pin out wrong. However, I'm not even sure what the purpose of this transistor is or whether It could possibly be the culprit. Everything else looks great, the wiring is correct, no solder bridges, no dry joints, good battery. I check each and every part (caps, resistors, diodes) before they are soldered into the board. I'm going to check the switch right now. Switch works fine. This pedal was supposed to be finished and shipped for a paying friend this afternoon. Murphy's Law strikes again. 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Have you ever had such a bad week or couple of weeks that you feel like you've been running through a corn field backwards? I might elaborate on this later when I have the strength to do so. Until then If anyone else wants to vent a little, feel free to do so.

I've had this problem for a while, where the 3PDT shaft is getting bumped and slightly depressed by the treadle. The result is a mechanical clicking noise coming through the amp. I want to keep my LED so a carling is a last resort. Is there a certain brand 3PDT anyone has used to correct this problem? It needs a shorter throw. If I lower the switch it will not turn on or off. The gromets look fine.

Is it imperative that I use the 1N5817's or will 1N4001's work in place of them.

Just wanted to make sure on this one. Is the LED pad on the Green Bean for the anode? Or does it matter? I'm using a 3pdt board with a single LED pad. So I'm assuming I should run the anode to the green bean and the cathode to the 3pdt board. Is this correct?

Has anyone found a PCB 3PDT switch that will work with a 3PDT board from Pedal Parts Plus. I've been through every PCB style footswitch I could find, and have yet to find one that will fit. I even just blew 6 bucks on the CHK switch they carry in hopes that the tabs would fit through the holes of their PCB, they didn't.

I recently built a Chimaera that is misbehaving. I don't have access to an audio probe until tomorrow. Until then, I figured I would see if anyone on this forum would like to take a look at the thread and video of the build, and see if they might be able to shine some light on the troubleshooting.  Here's the link to the Grind Customs Forum thread,

http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=616&p=3403#p3403

I believe I messed up a thread posted by the maker of this board under member projects and tutorials  So I figured I would post a build report to try to make up for it. This is a great fabricated PCB with a neat and tight layout by forum member Panos. This fuzz absolutely kills with humbuckers, and just sounds great all around. Definitely my new favorite fuzz. Here's a link to another thread related to the boards.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=16818.0

I used neutrik enclosed input and output jacks on a recent build. I've got the input jack grounded as I'm supposed to according to the M.B. standard wiring diagram. Do I need to ground the output jack as well? I can't tell if the jack's nut is actual metal, and thus will be grounded by contact with the aluminum enclosure. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Here is a link of the type of jack just in case.

http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=6007

James

So I tried to use some radioshack 1/4" jacks I had laying around on a build. Short story, short, the retainer clips don't lock on the tips of any of my instrument cables. Warning: Don't use these.