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Figured I'd share more of my handpainted enclosures.
Artwork by www.jeffniesen.com

This is the Aion Flare Fuzz Machine

Tough pedal to dial in. Still gonna try some other transistors for fun, hopefully I can find a use for it.

Eye lights and hand light are both main bypass. Was just messing around with trying to make it look like it's holding a light or something. It turned out okay.

Hey all- super pumped about this one. So brutal sounding, love it.
Got this up and running today after the amazing help from the tech forum here.
Artwork by my good friend -> www.jeffniesen.com
Eyes are main bypass lights, footswitch light is the boost section. Thinking about making it so the boost light can stay on when the main bypass is off just so I know what I'm getting into when I turn the pedal on. But that can wait for now. Just pumped to have this beast working.

I flipped the layout of the board to not intrude on the artwork as much.

Apparent fix: Replaced gain pot and C4 capacitor and fired it  back up and it seems to be working.

Original post:
Hey all-  I attached the PDF of the project.
Built up this board today and working on getting the distortion side up and running. Haven't tested the boost yet, but figured I'd fix this one first cause the boost is a much simpler circuit.
Issue: The tone is REAL farty/fuzzy. No sustain at all. Have to hit the strings pretty hard to get sound through. All the knobs seem to be doing more or less what they're meant to do.
I'm thinking the problem is somewhere to do with IC1. I checked the capacitor values surrounding it along with the resistors.

I'm new to using an audio probe, but here's what I found with that.
With IC1, the farty sound seems to be there on both pin 6 and 7 with pin 6 a lot lower in volume.  pin 7 seems to be normal volume but has the farty/no sustain thing going on and only registers if I really hit the strings hard.

I figured maybe there could be a problem with the power getting to the IC1 so I checked R3, R24, R25, R26 thinking that they could be causing the wrong voltage. I also thought it could be a bad chip but I swapped out 2 other chips and had the exact same sound effect happening as before.

Voltages:
IC1
1 - 4.39V      5 - 4.25V
2 - 4.39V      6 - 3.96V steadily drops down to 2.42V over about 12 seconds, this happens every time I retouch the voltmeter probe to it.
3 - 4.20V      7 -  1.343V
4 - 1.5mV     8 -  8.71V

IC2
1 - 3.86V     5 - 4.35V
2 - 3.91V     6 - 4.35V
3 - 3.91V     7 - 4.35V
4 - 0.5mV    8 - 8.72V

IC3
1 - 4.39V         5 - 4.35V 
2 - 3.86V         6 - 4.35V
3 - 3.86V         7 - 4.3V
4 - 1.5mV        8 - 8.72V

I'll keep messing around tonight but I'm burnt out for now. Thanks in advance for any help. Greatly appreciated.

-Elliot

It says"PHASER" on the board. Has a fdbk and vol control. B10k and B100k pots respectively. The pots are the small green ones which makes me assume it was a 1590G build. It has 3 IC's (8 pin) but all I have are sockets in so far so I don't know what chips go in it. I couldn't find it in the archives or on the main page. My shipping invoice (from 5 years ago) said the item was:
T.Phaser
Item# t.psr

I have it populated except the IC's and wanted to finally finish it rather than throw it out but I can't find the build doc. Not sure where else to look. Thanks for any help you can offer.

-Elliot

Hi all-
I Love the OCD circuit. I've built quite a few with Madbean layouts. I run two on my board right now. One of them I have is so much darker than the other in terms of tone and I'm wondering why. Looking for insight as to what parts to start messing around with in the circuit- maybe a capacitor got put in at too high of a value adding more low end? Or would it be something to do with what clipping diodes I used in each?

I dime the presence knob (5 O'clock) on my darker sounding one and it has about the same treble effect as the other one does with the presence knob at about 2 O'clock.

Hey all-
I'm missing a 0.1uf tantalum cap for a phaser build.
The capacitor is Bias voltage filter capacitor.
The project is this:
https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/emerald_documentation.pdf

I've never heard of a 0.1uf polarized cap, so I must've overlooked it thinking it wasn't polarized.

Is there any chance that the polarity isn't a must and I could just replace it with a 0.1uf MLCC?

If polarization is a must---I have a bunch of 1uF electro caps. any chance I could wire 10 of those in series to replace this part? Also how much of a difference is it going to make to have electrolytic as opposed to tantalum in this position?

Thanks for the help!

-Elliot

Is there an easy way to bypass the chargepump? Or would just plugging an 18v right into it work fine? 
Thanks for the help.
-Elliot

will this hurt the pedal? will it change the sound at all if not? Just curious, thanks.

Hey all.
I built a Zvex SHO for a friend. it popped really hard when he engaged it
Looked it up to be a common problem. I replaced the 3pdt with a relay bypass.
Now there's a pop every time he hits the switch. Any ideas? Here's a link to the video.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QJLmojqUxuaKUArM6

He tried a different power supply, without other pedals hooked up, etc.

Thanks for any help!

-Elliot

Here's a ping reverb. Not the cleanest guts. Fun paint job and lights though!
Relay bypass.

Which one is it? I assume that it's 1MD, but I really don't know so I figured I'd quickly ask.
Thanks!

I mailed my friend a pedal, it worked perfectly before mailing. Now my buddy got the pedal. The "on" signal works great. The bypass signal however he says is very very faint. So faint that the tuner pedal doesn't pick up a signal to show what notes he's playing.

My thought is a bad switch. Could it be anything else?

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/FatPantsJR/FatPantsJR.pdf
There is no sound going through the pedal. I haven't boxed it up yet.
I'm working on adjusting the trimmer to bias the Jfet. The voltage at TP doesn't change when I adjust the trimmer.
It's stuck at 26.8V

I checked the voltages of the IC and they're how they should be. Also, the Jfet voltages were off. The Drain makes sense it's off due to the trimmer not accomplishing what it should, but maybe there's something more making the Source be off? I really am a noob at this stuff. What do you think?
D: 26.8V
S: 0V (this should be 363 mV. )
G: 0V

I'm not good at debugging. So from here I checked all solder joints, looked for solder bridges to no avail.

I tested the trimmer and it's resistance is on point and changes when I adjust it.

Help?!

Thanks

-Elliot

Hey guys.
I'll try to make this quick as to not waste your time.
Build Doc:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7QeV_7r70dTNE4xSHo4cHY3eEE
Board:
https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/RywmoHxm
Sound Clip: (I used a boost after the octave to get the signal up in this recording.)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bye2ERj2uuOlZzNaQ05wRmZjNGJjX18tUGlJRC1ZeHExZnA0
Voltages:
TL074CN
1: 5.10    8: 5.10
2: 5.10    9: 5.10
3: 4.65  10: 4.77
4: 9.4    11: 0
5: 5.05  12: 4.77
6: 5.09  13: 5.10
7: 5.10  14: 5.10

CD4013BE
1: 0         8: 8.11
2: 9.40    9:  0
3: 5.04  10: 8.13
4: 0       11: 0
5: 9.40  12: 9.38
6: 0       13: 9.4
7: 0       14: 9.4

LM324N
1: 8.13    8: 5.03
2: 5.10    9: 5.10
3: 5.08  10: 5.07
4: 9.4    11: 0
5: 5.06  12: 5.08
6: 5.10  13: 5.08
7: 5.12  14: 8.14

Things that are different:
The chips I have have extra letters on them. Maybe this would cause the problem?
I'm using TL074CN, LM324N, CD4013BE.
For C5 I have 2.2nf parallel with another 2.2nf. Making it 4.4nf which is lower than the 4.7nf.
Maybe that would cause the problem?
Problem:
It's very quiet and has a little bit of background high pitched fuzz.  (you can hear it even with both pots zero'd)
Both pots seem to do what they're supposed to, yet when cranked the overall volume is still lower than bypass tone.


Thanks for any help you can offer. It's greatly appreciated!

-Elliot

I'll try to make this quick as to not waste your time.
Build Doc:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7QeV_7r70dTNE4xSHo4cHY3eEE
Board:
https://www.oshpark.com/shared_projects/RywmoHxm
Questions:
Are C15 and C16 supposed to be non-polar? Seems like super high values (110uF and 220uF) for non-polar to me. But I have a ton to learn, so I assume I'm wrong.
In which case--(noob question)-Would it be possible to substitute Polar caps in place of these?

Also does anyone know if the build doc "mistakes" are still in the boards you get from oshpark? I'm thinking they were fixed, but just curious.

Thanks for the help guys.

Does Madbean supply any boards to do this? (Maybe it's called relay bypass?)
The 3pdt's have been sounding more and more loud/clunky to me and I'd like to make the shift to all soft bypass, if possible.

Thanks for the help.

-Elliot

Hey guys/gals--
Looking for a good bass overdrive to build. Maybe a current Madbean project with a bass mod? Any suggestions?
Looking for a crisper overdrive tone. Not round/fuzzy.
Thanks guys.

-Elliot

Just letting whomever needs to know, know. Hopefully you'll delete this post afterwards

Hi guys. I have a bunch of pedals I built. Gut shots of course-- some clean, some not so much. Hope you find some fun lookin! I sure had fun building. Can't express how nice it is to have the madbean resource. Cheers to Brian!

1. My favorite go to pedal.
Low-rider tied with an ego driver. Footswitches are bypasses for each along with a switch that toggles off the clean and octave up to give a just bass line effect.



2.Fuzz factory in a 1590G. I built this pedal before realizing there were parts and build guides for the 1590G.


This last image is to show how I finagled the power supply into this.


3.This is a modded Dirtbaby.
The second footswitch (with the washer) toggles it into feeback with the pot on the side to modify how fast it goes into feedback.




4. Ping reverb




5. Woodstork Fuzz Face



6. Slow Loris Rat




7. Big Muff Pi, modded
I have a diode switch but I used 5mm LEDs instead of 3mm (just what I had) which I assume is the cause for volume boost when switched from the normal diodes.



8. Not A Klone



9. Mandroid

Somehow it didn't make it on my order list a while back, but I have a bunch of 2n5088's around..
The only reason I think this would be a good sub is because I found a thread around online that said it might work, but it had to do with a different type of pedal.

Thanks!

-Elliot