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Topics - culturejam

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1
Not even sure what to say here, other than: WHOA.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrOTHl6Tldc" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrOTHl6Tldc</a>

2
You old-timers will likely recall that I was a homebrewer before I was a pedal builder. I was so into the hobby, in fact, that I was a regular writer for the national homebrew magazine called Brew Your Own (or BYO). I used to write the DIY column for the guys who wanted to build gear instead of buy it. Shocker, right?  ;D 

Anyway, I was assigned to develop a build guide for a hop 'oast', which is a fancy way of saying dehydrator. So for the guys who grew their own hops, this would be a way to dry them in large quantities so they could be preserved and used over time. The pro versions had active ventilation and air-flow, and I wanted that on my home/DIY project as well. But I had no idea how to wire up a fan with an on/off and a speed control. At the time I was riding a train to work, and one of my commute buddies was a white-hat hacker and telephone system guy, and he drew me a schematic of what I should do. This was about 6 months before I built my first BYOC kit pedal.

So here is the top panel of the oast box -- my first actual electronics project --  with the fan, switch, and pot. It's been sitting in my garage since late 2006, and I've finally rolled it out to the curb for disposal. :)




3
I grew up right in the current likely storm path (southern-most coastline of NC) and have evacuated for hurricanes many times. I know the feeling well.

Please be safe and don't take any chances on "riding it out". You can't magically save your posessions by simply being present. You can't stop storm surge or flooding with willpower.

I'm really hoping this is another case of the media outlets excited at a non-Trump story and over-estimating the impact of the storm.

Either way, godspeed and good luck!

4
It blows my mind how complicated the PDP-11 was, and it was considered a "mini" computer in its hey-day. That one part with all the wire connections is crazy (why didn't they use insulated wire!?!?!). Dude replaced some old monster electros with some MKT gi-normous box caps.

What really took me aback was how long it took to call up a directory listing (around the 13:45 mark).  ;D

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGBS8mBAfYo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGBS8mBAfYo</a>

5
Open Discussion / Game guys: Need some game suggestions
« on: August 05, 2018, 08:56:37 PM »
I just got a "gaming" laptop with decent specs. Nothing cutting-edge, but good enough to play quite a few mostly modern titles. I haven't seriously looked at any games in several years, and it's an overwhelming landscape (which is a good thing). I've got a Steam account setup now, so I'm good to go in that respect.

I do not want a "totally immersive life-consuming experience", haha. I want something I can play somewhat casually. I like stuff with guns, explosions, and gratuitous violence. I also dig post-apocalyptic stuff, but it's not required.

I'm fine with stuff that's a couple years old. Don't need teh newest-greatest, as I'm still occasionally playing Unreal Tournament (the original), haha.

Here's what I have found that looks good for my general interests: https://store.steampowered.com/app/286690/Metro_2033_Redux/

Taking all suggestions. Thanks!

6
Open Discussion / NGD + Opinions Wanted
« on: August 03, 2018, 02:56:41 PM »
Just picked this up as a "consolation" for selling the CS Clapton guitar.  ;D The rest of the cash went into the new-roof fund.  :-\

This is a Squier Deluxe Strat in daphne blue. Been wanting one of these for a couple years. The quality overall has exceeded my expectations, and it arrived perfectly set up (and in tune!) straight out of the box from Sweetwater. The neck is almost exactly the same feel and shape as my '91 American. Same radius, too (9.5").

I would say that nothing *needs* to be upgraded on this model. The hardware and electronics are actually quite decent (or better). But of course, I have already ordered locking tuners.  ;D

So I want opinions from the peanut gallery on something. Since I have a Strat set up with the classic SSS config, I was thinking about doing this one with two humbuckers. Either that, or doing two single coils a la the old Duo Sonic setup (minus all the switches and whatnot). I like the 25.5" scale, but I also like two-pickup setups. What do you guys think? Should I do something unconventional or just leave it as is?


7
Got my low-power laser etch test boxed up. My dimensioning was slightly off in the artwork, but close enough that it worked. Forgot to move the TONE text over when I moved the drill mark, but it's close enough for rock n roll. Accidentally shot clear *satin* over the etching, so it's sort of a semi-flat look. But it's sturdy enough for stepping on.

Got the knobs a long time ago from BLMS. Enclosure is from there as well. It looks rough around the edges because I've dropped it a few times and smudged it up, etc.

The circuit is one I've been diddling with for years. It's a two-transistor overdrive with Volume and Tone pots and a switch that engages/defeats some clipping LEDs. It started life as my first-ever original circuit and then was sold by Rej as the Temple of Giants. Since then, I've added some major tweaks. It's got the same basic vibe, but it plays a lot better with different guitars and pickups now and is a lot more flexible (previously just had Volume control). I also added a couple of ferrite beads for noise suppression (stole this idea from Spaceman) at the audio input and power input. I went SMT to save space.

It's quite possibly the most controllable gain-wise with guitar volume that I've ever played. It can go from spanky to stanky with just a change to the guitar's volume. I actually can't believe it works so well at that, especially since that was never a design goal for me.  ;D

I had originally called this one "Bad Hombre" as a poke at our fearless leader. Then I decided to make a few minor layout changes and rename it "Polecat". But then I wanted some dragon art on this first build, so it's a whole mish-mash of ideas.  ;D

Anyway, here are some pics. The damn 9V jack is janky, so I'll have to pull all the jacks out and replace it, but it was good enough for a quick test.

Also, I have like 100 of those footswitch PCBs, so if anybody wants a couple let me know.



Ran out of room at the top (placed the art too close to the top and the footswitch too close to the bottom) so I had to get creative on the wiring, but it works. Learned for next time.


8
Open Discussion / New PT2399 analysis from ElectroSmash.com
« on: July 05, 2018, 08:39:44 AM »

9
As a rebuttle to this thread about DIY pedal decline: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=28094.0

Let's talk about what projects you guys have going on or are about to start. Do you have any new circuits or tweaks in the works? Got some fun builds you're about to start? Have you done any interesting work for clients? Got a PCB design in the words?

I'll start (since I started this)

Couple "new" circuit ideas for the old PT2399:
First one isn't a new circuit, but a new way to dial in the delay time and maximum delay time available. I've found that with a moderately to heavily filtered delay line, the optimum value for the Delay/Time pot is something like 60K - 70K (which of course doesn't readily exist for our purposes). So I've replaced the single pot with an optical element consisting of the classic LED / LDR combo + a trimmer in parallel with the LDR to dial in the max resistance value to 60K (or whatever actually sounds best with that particular PT2399). Added to that is an R/C filter that causes the LED to "lag" a bit when changing brightness (a la my old Neptune and Triton circuits), so it behaves a bit more like a real tape delay when the delay time is changed. Nothing revolutionary here, just what I feel is a better way to match the circuit parameters to the highly variable PT2399.

Second idea is probably far less practical, but I think it's cool. It's been bothering me for years that pin 5 (Clock Output) seems like something that can't be used. I think I've figured out a way to use it for something musical. Basically pin 5 is outputing a frequency showing you what the internal oscillator is doing. If you look on the datasheet, you'll see what that frequency should be when pin 6 has X resistance to ground on it. I've checked with a scope, and it's actually pretty accurate (unlike a lot of other parts of the datasheet). So I got the idea to use pin 5 as an oscillator to modulate delay time. But the frequency is significantly beyond would would be audible or useful, and analog logic chips to divide it down enough would require a massive sub-circuit (not at all worth it). But this is exactly what micro-controllers are good at, so I found some existing code that divides by millions, and that gets pin 5's output into LFO range. I have not tested this, but it's something I want to tackle in the next several weeks. The result *should* be modulation that changes speed as delay time is changed. Or it could be adapted to do a tremolo-like thing along with the repeats or maybe it could drive some kind of filter. Or, with a buffer on the output of the micro-controller, it could drive an LED that would indicate delay time (shorter times = faster blinking). We'll see, I guess.

I have more things cooking, but that's enough babbling from me for now. :)

10
Use code TS15

TubeDepot has great service, and the new production Tung-Sol tubes are really nice.

11
Okay, so this is my third cheap Chinese laser engraver. The first one worked great, but was limited in carving area (a ludicrous 42mm x 42mm area). Read the long thread here, if you care: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25637

Then I got a bigger one with a more powerful laser (2.5W) and a much larger carving area (200mm x 130mm). But, I could never quite get it properly squared up and aligned, so while it was powerful enough to burn down to metal with two passes, the second pass always lowered the fidelity of the artwork. So I disassembled it and sort of gave up (but I did keep the controller board, stepper motors, and laser module for some future project).

So now I have found a "Goldielocks" unit that's more or less in between these two. It has a similar motor system to the first smaller unit (appears to be CDROM carriage motors instead of stepper motors), and with the same power at 1.5W, but it's got double the carving area at 80mm x 80mm. And, like the larger one I had, this one does not have a platform that moves on the Y axis; it has X/Y up top and you simply free-position your cutting material underneath.

This one is *almost* big enough to do full face 125B, but if you don't need to etch all the way down by the footswitch, it will get the job done without needing to set up multiple position etching runs. But I'm sure a 2-off art setup can be figured out. Right now I'm doing some tests to figure out the native resolution so I can create some Illustrator templates.

Now some pics and comments on this particular machine:




This thing feels smaller than the original small unit, but it's actually wider (and also shorter). It has a built-in safety glass shield on the front, which is very cool (negates the need for green glasses when just checking progress).

My unit arrived (via BangGood) with a faulty laser module that would barely mark wood with laser power maxed and speed at minimum. I pulled the laser from my original small unit and it was a perfect match for this one (and works great). They offered me a measly $5 refund for the laser, which will cost me $20 to replace, but since the whole unit was only $85 shipped, I guess I shouldn't bitch too much. :)

This thing is SLOW for cutting powdercoat. Thin layers of rattle can paint is a lot faster to work with. Wood marking is pretty quick, as is leather. It can cut cardstock or very thin cardboard and paper. That's about it for cutting.



Accuracy/consistency on multiple passes is excellent. Two passes at max gets pretty deep into a thick powdercoat. A third pass yields marginal benefits over two. After that, you either have to be okay with a dark brown color, you can back-fill with acrylic or some kind of ink, or you can physically remove the last bit with a dental pick (or something similar). 1.5W just can't quite get down to metal by itself. And there aren't any more powerful laser modules that will fit this machine without major modifications and perhaps some firmware changes and/or power supply upgrades. Still, for the price vs performance, it's a good deal and a fun thing to play with.

Finished / cleaned out etch:




As with all my idiotic adventures........more to come!

12
Build Reports / Wacky Belton 2 Reverb
« on: June 04, 2018, 09:15:06 PM »
First full/completed pedal I've finished up in like 10 months or so. Stuffed some boards for FFX and tested a ton of prototype PCBs, but this one is the first full build I've done in ages.

It's based on my old Box of Hall schematic with some minor filtering tweaks and a trimmer to set the max amount of feedback available on the Feedback pot. Otherwise, it's pretty much the same.

I originally pitched this to Mark at Black Arts Toneworks as a product for his company, and he really liked it but ultimately didn't feel reverb was the kind of effect that fit with the brand. So I had this populated board kicking around in my "done but not boxed" pile for like, uh, 5 years, haha.

Sounds mostly like a Belton 2, which is to say there is a fair bit of modulation. But this one, for whatever reason has this really great modulation-drone sound if the Feedback is set just right. It sorts of becomes its own instrument that you can play over. I think a post-rock or noise-rock player would really get some use out of this. I'll try to do a quick sound clip this week.

Finishing was with a oddball ad-hoc mask as described here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27557.msg266884

The guts are quite a mess, but this is just for me and I know it's solidly done, so I don't care.





13
Open Discussion / NuTube Amp Kit(s) -- Ideas for Brian?
« on: May 18, 2018, 05:49:27 AM »
Thought these were kinda cool.

https://www.tindie.com/products/microwavemont/nutube-amp-kit-a-vacuum-tube-in-new-century-rev2/

http://www.pmillett.com/nuhybrid.html

I gotta say I would be all in on a madbean NuTube project.

14
Had this for a couple weeks but haven't had time to post anything. Just got some parts in for mods as well, so more to come after this.

This is a Jet City Custom 5. Single-ended octal output tube with 2x preamp tubes. The circuit is Marshall-ish but has some odd choices for values (in my opinion). I bought a mod instruction sheet that supposedly gets it really close to a JCM800 in the preamp. While I can't share the document because of copyright laws, I can share what mods I end up making. :) The guy who did the mods apparently is tight with the guy who owns Jet City, and he was nice enough to share the factory schematic with me. I may redraw the preamp section so I can share it as well. I feel like any modification instructions should include a schematic.

This is, apparently, Jet City's attempt to use up the leftover Pico Valve chassis and transformer stock. The circuit is derivative of the Pico, but definitely not the same. I believe the chassis is identical (which is also almost an exact fit for a Valve Jr.... and I've read that it's the same guy behind Jet City, Black Heard, and the Valve Jr), and the transformers are marked "PicoValve". Like the Pico, this one also has a 5H choke.

Apparently, the guy behind Hovercraft Amps did the circuit mods. Also apparently, all of Hovercraft's amps are modded Jet City amps or similar with a dressed up head cab and face plate. Weird.

As it is, the bass is flubby and loose. Same complaints as the Pico, although this one does sound better (I briefly owned a Pico, so I recall the problems with it). More gain on tap here, as the Custom 5 has bypass caps on the first three amplifier stages, whereas the Pico has none.

I'm going to do whatever I can to tighten up the bass (starting with the filter caps and then moving on to coupling caps). Other than that, I dig the way it sounds. Great hard rock tone. The boost switch is sort of odd, and in the bass setting really just doesn't sound remotely good. The only way it works is in the treble setting. I may muck with those values as well.

This thing is HEAVY!











15
As promised, I am becoming the JimiLee of small cheapish amps.  ;D

I have more new amps than time to post about them, but I'll do this one tonight. First entry was the MonoPrice 5W 6V6 10" combo for $99.

Tonight is the SET5 5W EL84 super-tiny head. It is $99 including shipping. Got it from here.

It is a LOT smaller than I thought it would be. See first pic below for size reference (never miss a chance for product placement!). Seems quite well made overall. OT is a little small, but I can't say I expected big iron in a 5W $99 amp.

Here's the specs:
5 watts via 1x EL84 and 1x 12AX7 (Chinese tubes, of course)
Treble, Bass, and Volume controls
1W and 0.1W attenuation modes (slide switch on rear)
8 and 16 ohm outputs

Frankly, it sounds pretty good. It doesn't have a ton of umph, but it does have a decent tone at full volume. Kinda sounds like a Valve Jr, but with a touch more gain and a little smoother. There's clean headroom with humbuckers up to about 3 or about 4 with single coils. Bass and Treble are actually useful. The 1W setting sounds pretty good with the amp cooking; the 0.1W has too much high cut and frankly isn't loud enough to do anything useful other than rock out next to a sleeping baby. Haven't tested any other tubes in there yet, but I have some in the mail. I don't expect massive improvement with different tubes, but swapping is half the fun of tube amps. :)

Internal build quality was nicer than I expected. And nothing is surface mount. Modding should be relatively easy. I have emailed the distributor and asked for a schematic, so we'll see what happens.

I noticed there are 8 or 10 1/4-watt resistors (and they are carbon film). I assume these guys did the math and feel okay with that low of wattage in certain spots. Also, the "anchor" tabs on the power tube socket were not soldered, so the socket moves more than I like when removing a tube. I will fix that shortly. Some of this appears to be wave soldered, while other components are definitely done by hand. They didn't do any flux cleanup, which isn't the end of the world, but obviously a little on the sloppy side. A few components are little crooked, but I'm being picky.

The cage is actually three pieces, and the front/back grill are removable. I'm totally going to 3D print a new badge for the front.

Overall, it's a nice little amp. Great platform for modding or doing a gut-n-rebuild. But it's also okay just as it is as a tiny amp head for practice or recording. Not a damn thing wrong with it out of the box.

PICS!














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