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hey guys,
i built the "new " version of brian's pedal recently after (foolishly) selling the original one.
it just doesn't seem to quack right. i was like... wtf.
but "between" positions on the switch i can hear formanty goodness, plenty of yoy, but no real "quack"
so i thought maybe i put the rotary switch in backwards... not sure, i thought they were supposed to be marked, but there's only a "7" on the bottom of the switch.
so i desoldered it, rotated 180 degrees and now i got plenty of quack on the first two positions, and nothing on the other two.
planning on re-flowing the board with some fresh solder as i found a couple "microphonic" monolythic ceramics, so i assume the solder on them isn't great..
but do ya think i smoked the switch?
i DID buy two, so i can re-install a fresh one, but i don't wanna waste it when i can use it for another build.
any advice?
i will try and post voltages etc if anyone thinks they're necessary, but i'm banking on it being the switch.
thanks for the advice!
rock on and keep it quackin'!
PjP

i love this freekin' pedal...

hi folks,

built the honey dripper, used all 5% resistors (except for subbing 240's for the 220k's, cuz they were handy)

but ran into a boondoggle.

it passes signal. i KNOW it's working...to a point. if i mess with the opamps, i can hear it do it's thing.

but...i think i misunderstood the instructions, and i hope i got it right.

the switch and pots are supposed to mount to the back of the board (solder side), right? if not, i need to desolder them all and mount them from the component side of the board.

all the voltages seem to be good, and it definitely passes signal, but no effect whatsoever unless i yank one of the lm324's half way out. (i know, not reccomended)..

quadruple checked all connections, no solder bridges, no cold solder. all ic's socketed, as are the input cap and r 21 (i have a 10k trimmer there to adjust it)

so....did i misread the instructions? hoping all i have to do is unsolder the switch and re-do it. big job, but not impossible.

also...REALLY dumb question...the little metal stop on the switch had fallen out. does this need to be set on hole #4? without it, there's actually 12 possible positions, assuming the first 4 are where it's at.

thanks !! i really wanna get this thing buttoned up!

also...FWIW...the knobs do nothing either.

right now it kinda sounds like a "stuck" flanger.

will post voltages if suggested, but they all seem pretty good.

peace

jimi