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Hey guys,

I've done a 1:1 build of a dual strip Univibe I have and while I've gotten it dialed in, the original unit has these mids to it that I'm going to attribute to component drift and I can't seem to replicate them. I've traced the original unit twice to be sure there were no odd values, etc. and everything is as it should be, so I'm hoping someone has some suggestions.

Thanks.

Hi,

My Harbinger 1.5 is all built out and I'd like to add the cancel mod like on the Castledine Supra Vibe. After comparing schematics, it looks like all I need to do is short Pin 2 of the Offset trimmer to ground but wanted to double check with you guys so I don't fry anything.

Thanks!

My Retrograde build came out great but I've noticed that when I switch the octave on, there's a noticeable volume drop. Is there a way to balance the volume between octave on and off? Thanks.

I've been messing with relay based switching and have the code where I want it but have run into two issues that I could use input on.

1) On a couple of my builds (overdrive/distortion pedals) I'm getting what can best be described as a squeak or metallic ping that comes through my amp whenever the relay switches to the ON state. I'm pretty sure it's not the coding so could I have a microphonic part somewhere? The relay? The switch? Anyone else run across this and is there something I can do to quiet it?

2) I'm using the short shaft SPST momentary switches from Mammoth Electronics and sometimes the pedal doesn't switch smoothly/cleanly. For example...

- The circuit will be on but the LED is off and I have to hit the switch again.
- I'll go to turn the pedal on or off and will have to double tap it to work

This doesn't happen with every switch and it also doesn't happen every time so I'm thinking it's not a coding issue (but wanted to be sure). Does anyone else have experience with these switches and did you run into the same issue?

Thanks in advance.

Finally got my Nautilus build up and running after tearing my hair out over what ended up being a bad electrolytic and it sounds like it should but the Peak LED stays dimly lit all the time, even when the pedal is bypass (it does get brighter when I hit the strings so that parts works as it should). I'm 99.9% certain all connections are solid so I wanted to see if this is the way it's supposed to be or if I need to tear it down again. Thanks.

Just wanted to be sure, thanks.

I didn't see these questions asked anywhere else so here we go...

1) I cannot get this thing to fuzz. At best it slightly growls. I;ve tried various diode combinations but cannot get anywhere near the fuzz I've heard in various demos. I have check, rechecked and checked again for improper values, solder bridges, cold solder joints, etc. but no luck. At best it sounds like it's clipping (and not in the good way).

2) In an attempt to correct the fuzz issue I found some discrepancies in the documentation schematic versus the redrawn original schematic. They are listed below -

Madbean R10 = 1K, Original = 100k
Madbean R17 = 4k7, Original = 10k (thought to be 4k7 but later revised to 10k)
Madbean R27 = 220K, Original = 270K

Everything else works like a champ but I'd like to know how much fuzz I should be expecting and what about the resistors in question. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.