Topics

Looking at XLR +/-/G connections. The balanced/ unbalanced converter boards I'm using have spots for +/-/G on power and +/-/0v. I'm really not sure how to reference to +/- on the power jack. Anyone have any guidance?

Does anyone know what SPSTs Peter uses on his production? They are so lovely, and I'd love to duplicate the experience with my MB supplied VFE stuffs.

Thanks!

So I accidentally drilled another hole in my enclosure. Now to find a useful mod...


Any suggestions? Fat switch? Bright switch? Crazy oscillating compressor of death by laser beam switch? I'm all ears!

If I cut the trace connecting pins 1 and 8, and use a 15v zener, any reason not to use an LT1054?

First, THANK YOU for this incredible comp project. It's my favorite "plug and play" comp by far for electric- so stinking natural!

Second, I'd LOVE to make this part of my acoustic board as well, but, active electronics doing what they do, a threshold control is necessary for that purpose. Is there any way to easily wire one into the 4:1?

Thanks!

Halp!

I'm looking for a laser printer for decals. Color preferred. Any suggestions?

Oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy. This thing is FANTASTIC!

I reused an enclosure from an experimental MN3005 delay that didn't work out, and everything FITS!

Tantalum and film 1uFs are for fun; the next couple AB16s will be all film

Pics!







Again, I cannot overstate how great this delay sounds. 'bean knocked it out of the PARK with this!

Looking through the schematic, it seems that most 1uF caps might reasonably be replaced by non-polar film caps (C2, C7, C16, C23). Is the decision to use polar electrolytics in these positions driven by space savings, accuracy to the original circuit, or something else?

Thanks!

Pardon me if this has already been asked, but is there a way to add a feedback control to the Aquaboy?

I'm looking to do something along the lines of an Endangered Audio AD4096 Expand switch, which gradually results in self-oscillation. On the EA delay it adds such a fantastic dynamic layer to the sound, I'd love to bring that to the AB.

Here's a video of the EA: https://youtu.be/yImAn0iqyVs

Let's say I don't wish to use the switch. Is it possible to bypass the modulation effect, even if it's "always-on?

[2]

Getting ready to dive into some MN3005 goodness, but I can't for the life of me find any NE571s. Are you guys all hoarding personal secret stashes, or is there somewhere to find them out there that's not a Chinese eBay crap shoot? 

Smallbear sells a NE572 workalike, but I'm not sure it's applicable to the needs of the ABDX or AB17 circuits. Gander: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/ic-ne572/

Thanks!

I ordered a batch of PCBs a bit ago, and can't find the instructions. If you have a set handy, please let me know!

Thanks

[C5]

Man, it's so good to see all these Duplex drives being finished; it's a great circuit!

So, my goal on this was to build it to sound as close to the YouTube clips as possible. Every G2ish I've built to this point has been DARK. There are all sorts of mods and suggestions from across the Internet, but I think this fix finally nails the issue once and for all. It comes down to one single cap: C5.

Here are the vitals, then I'll get into the build itself:

G2 darkness fix- looks like there might be an error in the original circuit trace, based on what I'm hearing.

C5: 100pF (internet schematics, build docs say 1nF)

Kit Rae mod:
R10: 18k (build doc says 15k)
R11: 100R (build doc says 680R)

I found with the cap switched, any germanium diode under ~.3fV sounds great, and the darkness problem is GONE!

IMPORTANT: The higher the fV, the darker the G2 side sounds. Low threshold germaniums (under .3fV) are ESSENTIAL to achieving the correct harmonic "signature".

Here's what I settled on:

D1, 2, 5, 6 (G2 diodes): CV7127 germanium (Super, super smooth at fV .22-.26fV)
D7, 8 (SS2 diodes): 1D507A germanium (my favorite Soviet sleeper @ .27-.28fV)

Guess what; it sounds like the YouTube clips, with maybe a little more grit and character on the SS2 side (the diodes make a big difference on that side).


Other fun:

Duplex Drive graphics (Google it) screen printed at PPP
Micro incandescent bulbs for indicators (100R CLR)
22 AWG pushback cloth wiring

The message inside the back cover is for a friend's son, who is receiving this as a graduation present.

Enjoy!







...and yes, I fixed the stomp wiring

I built this guy a few years back, and just finished updating to some of the new specs. Transistors are OC141, CV7112 (military OC140) NPN germanium, and MPSA13 on the output. Q1 is 136 hFE, .04 leakage, Q2 is 65 hFE, 0 leakage. I left the gain pot at 1kB rather than a reverse log, because the germaniums have so much useful low gain clipping available.

The rest of the guts are a whole bunch of carbon comps and audio caps because why not. Also, it is DEAD. SILENT. Awesome noise rejection.

Enclosure is poison apple red from PPP, and the caption is Portuguese for "singing tone", though my Brazilian friends laugh about it, because they don't actually use adjectives that way






A first for me: crummy clips! Enjoy!

Intro and EQ
Gain and Boost

Man, the 'bean makes the best PCBs. This thing was simples. Right of passage passed!

Enclosure is PPP 125BB, cleared and screenprinted. All J201s were biased to 4.5, then adjusted by ear. It took a little tweaking, but boy-howdy does this thing ever scream, and I was able to dial out the hiss with a few nudges on Q2. Awesome!

Enjoy!







I did make one sub, and tried a new thingamabippy:

Sub: C11 1n-10n
If you look real closely, I floated the LED in the center of the hole. Very sci-fi looking

Alright, building a Chunk Chunk, and trying to decipher Juansolo's method for JFET matching. I did find the GeoFX article, and built up a JFET matcher on vero (link at the end), but I'm not getting anything approaching the values recommended. Most are in the .03-.2 range, and not at all close to the -0.3 range recommended. 

Am I missing something? Is there a calculation I'm not aware of?

Thanks for your help!

Here's the vero I'm using: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AbBm9p3sUHk/UBPVCFikwRI/AAAAAAAAB_c/WPCDhKLOPrY/s1600/JFET+Matcher+Compact.png

Love this circuit! I did have to fix the LED orientation after missing the note in the build notes. Read the build notes, guys!

Big thanks again to DRolo for his help with the graphics, and for making such an incredible tap tremolo available

Delyk has a great Twin Peaks PCB that mounts everything to a single board, but turns the enclosure sideways from Rolo's design. I made it fit with top jack, because top jacks

Screenprint by PPP





It sounds blasted fantastic!

Build notes:

1. I sent PPP the wrong print, and it came out 2.5mm too high. Lesson learned- double check my files. It still fits, but the labels aren't as vertically centered as I like.

2. Screenprint made with the generous contribution of DRolo.

3. To accomplish the same top jack orientation, here's what you need to do:

Mount C8, C3, C4 beneath the PCB in the "crook" of the board-mount pots. C22, C17 must be mini caps, I use Smallbear. I also use Smallbear for the Lumberg jacks and mini stereo jack (wired mono) for the tap out, and small 2 pole power jack.

Once installed, the tap out jack covers the HP, LP trimmers, but those are pretty set and forget anyway.

If you haven't built this circuit yet, do so! It's awesome!

Hey guys,

I recently purchased a phenomenal delay that uses CV input to control time. So, in theory, I could sync all of my tap pedals (digital delay, tap trem, CV controlled delay) with one master tap switch.

There's a catch.

It seems the only way to do this commercially is have the tap converted into MIDI, then convert the MIDI pulse into CV. That's ~$350.

Is there a way to sync a couple NO tap effects and a CV controlled one without all of the rigamarole? Maybe the upcoming Tapanatorator?

Thanks for the help!

Grace & Peace,
Justin