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Stumbled on these searching for something else. Have never ordered from here and know nothing about them, shipping etc.. Have come across other things over time that they carry that could prove useful down the line.

https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/aluminum-enclosure-112x61x31mm.html
https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/aluminum-enclosure-120-95-35mm.html
dave

I didn't know there was an old office or what exactly an office entails but it's quite close by. Always had fine hassle-free dealings with them.

https://www.mouser.ca/localoffice-ca/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=elq-18.0510-canadaofficeannouncement-brand-ca&utm_source=eloqua&subid=0bbefbdede5142738bb2b943ac45e680&utm_content=4746836

dave

At diystompboxes someone posted a link to a Firefox addon that allows the ransomed photobucket images to show in the threads once again. I use Chrome so did a search for a Chrome fix and found one that so far has worked on two of thee forums, this being one, that i've tried it on. I only know mine are there but can't be sure others are now showing corectly or they were never effected.
Cleared my cookies and junk before seeing if it would work.

Chrome fix i'm trying;  https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj?hl=en

Firefox which i haven't tried;  https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/

Anyone else have something to try either an addon or a link to one of your images that's been blocked in a thread.

dave

Sometimes and i do really stupid things but so far i've been lucky enough to live to tell the tale. Case in point... i made up a guitar cable terminated with Tayda 1/4" mono plugs. Worked for a some time but when the guitar signal started going intermittent on me it's wasn't difficult to track down the issue.

The plug's fallen apart, on the left you have the shell, on the right the plug, every element the plug's made up of moves independently of the others. You can spin the shaft, the threaded bushing, the insulated center solder point, the ground connection, all just flops about if you wiggle it. Not to mention it's corroding in places.

I'm needing to place a Mouser order so from them i'll get some plugs, a straight and a right angle for this Mogami cable.  Switchcraft, Neutrik & Amphenol all have straights ~$5cdn mark, is there any one product that stands out above the others. I've a number of cables built up with the plain Jane Switchcraft straights, of course no issues. With that one i'd probably order their right angle 'clamshell', but again are there any from the other two companies that would be significantly better.

Switchcraft straight http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/280/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV3fTUvSc3cBdaCe9I6aM8Po%3d

Neutrik http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NP2X/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV%252bfVN06yI9Ab7pyUh%252bzWttY%3d

Amphenol, they also have one a couple dollars cheaper- http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Audio/TM2P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV773LpRc%252bsAjtcQT0agJZcI%3d

Switchcraft right angle- http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/228/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV3fTUvSc3cBdc%2fx0F2nOflA%3d

Any recommendations?
Thanks alot!

dave

I'd done this enclosure last spring, chopped according to Cozybuilder's tutorial at diystomp... then painted  & legended for a circuit i lost interest in. Sat 'til this spring when i put out a plea for ideas for a circuit to put in a finished boxed and Stomptown offered me one of his Harmonic Percolator pcb's and the four other important bits. Jumped at that and very glad i did, finished and tested yesterday and it sounds great through my 18watt, dead on for my sonic territory. Much thanks to Jon!

Etching primer, BIN primer/Sealer (white) to level any scratches.

Red paint around the top, tape off the stripe then red paint over the stripe to seal the tape edges and prevent the other colours bleeding under.

Paint white, mask botttom half paint the top Cody green.

Mask the top paint purple. Then slapped on a coat of Micaceous Iron Oxide (mica flakes in black paint), wrapped with crinkled up Saran Wrap then let dry. Peeled off and did a second application in a few weak areas.

About a picture i posted yesterday.

Looks great! Did you do the lettering by hand? and how on earth did you stick the cut piece back on the enclosure??

Lettering was done with a piece of frisket film and very narrow tape i used as pcb etch resist back in the tape and dry transfer pad pcb days.

First attempt was with thick acrylic gel medium, total failure so sanded it off and taped it up for a second shot with the airbrush and tooth brush.

Didn't have the odd ball resister values for the Albini version but did have 1/8w, 1/4w parallel pairs to stack for them. Also the only 2.2uF electros i have are axial so paralleled two 1uF radial electros. I haven't tried either set of bounding diodes (will be set and forget) but i'm fully impressed with running bare.
First time use of one of Rej's Lumen boards.

Thanks to Stomptown for giving me the kick in the butt to finally finish a pedal, first in over a year! Sounds super, great board!

Thank you Jon!
dave

edit- spelling

Tonight, looks like a major portion of my photo links are messed, fine this afternoon, tonight a message, oops links are incorrect, can't get a correct link from the photobucket site when i've tried since.

Screwed? 1800 photos in how many posts over how many years?

Thanks
dave

Hi All,

As mentioned in the "Slump" thread i haven't completed a pedal in a year. A year ago i did chop the top off a 1590b and glue back together as a wedge. Drilled for two pots, top mount jacks, painted and labelled for a project i lost interest in...

The labeling is cryptic enough it doesn't matter what goes in as the paint job is staying. My mixologist did me up a bottle of 'Cody Green Shag' acrylic so it's got the mojo in spades.

Looking for something to build and pop in this box, get me moving again.

Criteria
1. Two pots
2. Needs to fit in a 1590b
3. No interest in OD/distortion
4. Only mod effects i have are the EA trem and a TriVibe, so happy to expand on that
5. Outrageous fuzz and noise is another area of interest
6. Will diy a board, have lots of vero and photoresist on hand (and breadboards)
7. No weird/esoteric bits i'm not likely to have on hand, i've stalled long enough to finish the pedal and waiting for parts would compound exponentially the time i'd spend getting up off the floor.

Thanks so much for your ideas and direction guys!
dave

Have notifications been turned off again? Haven't had any notifications in at least a  few days now and there have been new posts to threads i'm subscribed to.

Thanks!
dave

Another couple days of posts lost to the ether?
dave

In light of the lost months of posts and the re-posting of builds for the Build of the Year contest, just a thought...

... i'm a brutally, slow, confused typist and have lost many a long post to my stupidity when working in a reply box. If it's more then 140 characters i usually compose and save posts in something like Notepad then copy and paste them into the reply box once i'm satisfied with what i've assembled.  Should i need to retrieve something i've spent a good chunk of time putting together, or post it on multiple sites,  i've got on a couple hard drives.

dave

I've never had a cell phone but recently got an ipod touch (for the camera) so have app-ability. Have Panotuner (free) on it but would like to hear what works best for others, what to avoid, recommendations.

Thanks all!
dave

Almost finished...

dave

Hello, When i arrive via an email notification link, pages have certain areas blacked such as the names of the poster. Anybody else experiencing something similar? Started today and doesn't happen if i travel here via regular channels. Hovering above the blacked out name produces a balloon with the missing info.

Pics



dave

Hello, This was started a long time ago, short attention span and no hurry, finally got to stomp on it today, fired up on first go 'round, no rocking before ... Aaand no magic here, just my iteration of an ultra-complcated circuit... treble booster with two transistors.

Name? A while back a friend spent some time teaching ESL to the locals in Georgia... the other Georgia... so from a list of Georgian communities i snared Tkibuti as i liked how i thought it might be pronounced. Little to be gleaned about Tkibuti other then destitute, post-industrial wasteland.

All the Russian Ge transistors i've received, PNP's & NPN's, have had low gains of no more then 30 so built this Ge Darlington Rangemaster based on the article by Steve at Small Bear.

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BreadboardGeDarlingtonRMs/BreadboardGeDarlingtonRMs.htm

(Built with PNP's, positive ground, schematic is for NPN's)
Body control.

Darlington


Based on this schematic my values for the various parts;

Input caps; 3n polystyrene & 27n polyester. Tried every variety of cap i had, various types of ceramic, plastic, polystyrene, to my ear no disernable  difference so used most interesting looking 3n cap i had kicking around?
Output cap; 39 polyester.
Emitter cap; 3.3uF
Emitter resistor 3k
Bias resistors 470k & 62k
Rc 1k2
Rd 20k

Collector voltage fell nicely in desired range with 2 GT308b's.

On the rats nest breadboard was crazy noisy/buzzy but with the pcb and shielded enclosure as quiet as my standard Rangemaster. WAs concerned about the noise so breadboarded a standard so i could swap in the transistor from the my previous quiet build and vice versa and the noise stayed with the setup not moving with the transistor so felt hopeful that once properly built the noise would go, success! On a further note the gain of  these Ge's seems to be enough for use in the standard arrangement, more play...

Used a battery power-switching arrangement idea from Geofex, using a 2N3904 (positive ground cicuit). http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/PNP_power_switching.pdf

Layout done in ExpressPCB then the usual tweaks in Inkscape. Sunk four sockets e/b/c/e, so can use any transistor pinout without having to contort the leads. Layout now verified, fired up nice and quiet.

Photoboards exposed ~1" away from the flourescent tubes above my workbench, absolutely no need for any special UV setup for board exposure, UV will cut down exposure time considerably but that's it, ~9min. lots of leeway, for flourescents, UV 60-90 sec.

Resolution, ruler divisions 1/64". Lacquered boards.

Enclosure madness; one of Mac Walker's terrific wedges. Cut a battery sock from an old bicycle 1" inner tube, heavy duty stick on velcro to mate it the enclosure then a rubber grommet stuck to the bottom plate to firmly entrap the battery. Battery snap was something put together for another project and never used, perfect fit for this.

Sanded enclosure with 220, cleaned with acetone-> self-etching primer-> BIN Shellac based Sealer/Primer. Then... artist acrylics and mediums, gouache paints, rocker panel paint, spray webbing, charcoal pencils, watercolour pencil crayons, permanent markers, Gun Metal Bluing, Target 7000 lacquer, propane torch, JB weld, frisket film and masking tape stencils, liquid frisket, stamps, toner transfers, collage. Applied/removed with paint brushes, air brushes, palette knives, ruling pen, pop can pen, brayer, toothbrush, scrub brush, fingers, resistor lead, sandpaper, rifflers/files, Dremel burr, xacto knife, and dental picks. Gimp and Inkscape used to organize and manipulate ideas/images etc.

Cheers! dave

Have a bunch of half completed projects to get to... strike one from the list.

Had bought a bunch of decade switches from a China source and they sent me half that were parallel switches (not asked for) and half that were series. Bought more of the same series switches from Adafruit so have enough for two resistor decade boxes. One done, used mostly 1/6w resistors and a few 1/4w. (And Adafruit also has(had) a larger version of the switch available.)

Have wired the pararllel switches up with 4 caps each to derive the decade count and figure on boxing each singly but haven't any suitable boxes yet.

Not sure about the decade box termination, European barrier strip -have a lot on hand so used a piece of that.

I have to paint everything sooo... artist acrylics,  dilute gouache paint and a wet toner transfer for the 1590A enclosure.

Counts by ones waaay higher then i ever could.
And thank you Paul for the inspiration!












dave

Just curious as to what people are using/recommending for their video demos. I've got a Canon Powershot A630 wwhich works great for stills but video image and sound quality are absolutely deplorable. The other day Cooder put up a demo for his Carmen Ghia build, recorded with an inexpensive little video camera, the quality of which i'd be thrilled to acheive, will explore that camera further.

Cooder's Amp (and camera link)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=16712.msg159443#msg159443

What other gear are you all using for throwing down quick pedal/amp videos or straight audio demos?

Old short thread on video camera recommendations.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1934.msg14766#msg14766

Thanks
dave

Hello, Put some parts into the cart at BYOC and tried to get a shipping estimate for Canada, the page shows a box for Country then a box for State/Province. Canada doesn't show up in the list of countries and the second box contains no provinces plus you can't type them in. Do i need to go further in the checkout process to find Canada or have we been blacklisted?
(Tried it through a couple different browser.)

Thanks,
dave

Hi Guys, Finished this up last night. Had the transformers for a few years but didn't get the final bits to complete it 'til last month. Geofex "Spyder"-ish build, nine independent 9vdc ouputs, 8 @ ~50mA and one double that based around the LM317 regulator. A bunch of mis-ordered power jacks, ugly ugly and nasty to work with Tayda led bezels, a bag of LM317's and big baggy of gifted 2N4002's now depleted.

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/spyder/spyder.htm

Squeezed into a 10" × 6"  Hammond chassis. Stuff like this i usually spray the chassis with rubberized rocker panel paint but it's months before the outside world will be cooperating for that so had to make-do with the indoor paint box.

First boards i've used the endoscope drill rig on, worked well, accuracy is dead-on and sped things up for me a lot. Just use ExpressPCB for doing layouts then to Inkscape to dress'em up and finally to photo-sensitive pcb's for the etch.

Fires up fine, still have to try it out on pedals.

dave

ed. spelling/grammar

Greetings from the great frozen north!

Needed to find some assistance for viewing pcb's while drilling so from some ideas put forward by R.G. Keen at diystompboxes in a couple of threads i kludged this setup together to make it easier and more accurate to drill pcb's.

Purchased a cheap (~$13) USB endoscope from some china-r-us seller on ebay and from LeeValley, to mount the endoscope, got a flashlight holder with a magnetic base for another $9.

The scope software wouldn't cooperate so got a freeware webcam program from Oasis Scientific that covered what i needed. http://www.oasisscientific.com/downloads.html
Also found a small utilty that by Hotkey turns your cursor into  fullscreen  crosshairs then by Hotkey freezes the crosshairs in place and returns the cursor to normal. http://www.brothersoft.com/crosshair-63808.html

First step was to take the carriage from my old style Dremel drillpress and put it back on upside down so it advances up. The carriage on this press, at the last moment before the drill was about to enter the material being drilled, would shift sideways so you were always trying to manually guess/compensate for that defect. Put heatshrink on each arm of the depth gauge yoke and that totallyeliminated the swing and in no way hinders the carriage travel.



Flipping the carriage puts the lever arm at a perfect spot for advancing the carriage, a short thumb stroke does the job. Drilling in the normal fashion i've always wished the lever could be mounted far forward of the factory setup, flipping the carriage fixes that issue.

Next secured the Dremel press beside my regular benchtop press so that that press's table could be swung out over the Dremel, secured the table so it wouldn't move.



Taped a piece of recycled thin plastic over the table hole to keep the drilling detrious falling into the Dremel.
Mounted the endoscope in the flashlight holder and that went onto the table above the hole. Tried to center it over the drillbit, viewing the endoscope image on the computer but the flashlight base-magnet makes fine tuning impossible.

Secured a pcb to the table so it would get drilled through in a waste area.



Drilled up through the secured pcb- centered the crosshairs on the hole and froze them in place, now have my target for pad centers.

Now it's just a matter of centering a pad under the crosshairs and drilling away, you reduce a three dimensional view down to two and pretty much eliminate any chance of error.




And a picture through the endoscope (which doesn't capture the overlaid crosshairs).

,

Worked great, just need to find a way to get the laptop closer to the drillpress.

dave

Been hung up on this and delaying ordering for way too long, my brother would periodically visit a friend in PA, give me a heads up when he was going and i'd have difficult/problematic-to-ship orders sent to PA and my brother would be the mule but that tailed off a couple years ago.

Long story short finally pulled the trigger and placed an order on Nov.28. Placed order in US currency, some of the items went up crazily when shown in Cdn. currency so left the currency set to $US. Chose the $8 USPS shipping figuring i'd have to cough up for our sales taxes and a $5 handling fee when handed off at the door. Arrived today with no additional charges, just a 'have a nice day' and Christmas is early. Not the quickest shipping, i'm used to Digikey's $8 overnight but all is well!

dave