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Nice work!

My fault because I didn't check the switch before I installed it.

I certainly didn't do this with my last build. No, not at all.  *cries into his desoldering pump*

I recently surpassed 5000 pedals built, and I have yet to encounter a switch, foot or toggle, that doesn't work. Nor have I ever had a repair return. But I hear about them a lot on these forums. Makes me wonder what's up. I use the same Tayda shit as everybody.

I'm much more concerned that the caps aren't straight, not their color.

That is super cool! I remember using that kit in technology class in seventh grade in the 90s in Arizona.

I'm not familiar with the 1950 box. What are its dimensions? If you meant 1590b, then both the madbean slow loris and runt pcbs will fit.

The drill template is in the build doc.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rIXNMiUJHKDNxncf_m3b1yGNpsPdpwtA/view?pli=1

Your input (and maybe output, I cannot see in the pics) jack appears to be wired backwards. That would cause your problem. Are you using fluxed solder? I think you might reconsider your soldering supplies.

Haven't built this in awhile, so this might be a dumb question. Does it need 18V? Have you tried it with 9V?   Flangers built with charge pumps are notorious for problems like this. Just wondering how the OneSpot CS12 gets its 18V. Might be some power noise getting into the CL.

I'm wondering too if 18v operation could be the culprit. I built my 2023 CL for 9v operation and it has, by far the best noise floor I've ever heard on a flanger. It is absolutely dead silent even at extreme settings.

Calibrating by ear worked just fine for me. You are looking for as much range as you can get without it chirping at the top. It ended up being at about noon on mine.

I build for profit. I do not keep parts on hand other than extraneous resistors as I have to buy them in 10 quantities. I build about 200 pedals a year currently and buy parts weekly for each batch. I build a variety of circuits and change up frequently. This keeps my bottom line at a minimum. My point is that i don't collect parts for storage. I store my entire parts overstock in a 9x3" Rubbermaid desk organizer tray. And I often choose my next projects solely on using up weird value stragglers. 

Noticed for the new current lover R24 is labeled as a jumper in the schematic and 10k on the BOM— which is correct?

R24 looks to be 10k across all documentation. R42 is the jumper.

All of my recent orders shipped faster than the old days. It might be worth checking in with them. Its unusual.

Wow! I love what you did. A full eq section would be on my wish list for this too.
I got ripped off on 4 of these. It's nice to see someone get one working.

I just thought I'd leave a note about my experience with the Polyphase. The Polytrog is the first version I've built that worked totally correctly. And the only version that included the thermistor as an option. I built the Polytrog without it. I live in Minnesota and we have pretty extreme weather swings as well as home, rehearsal, and gig spot conditions. After a bit I noticed the bias was swinging. As much as 0.5v. Which is enough to deactivate (or over-do) the envelope modulation. I decided to pop a thermistor in there and now its stable to within 0.05v from 50f-100f.
I got the part for a paltry $0.11 from Tayda, and ultimately it was necessary for my build and use conditions. I'm thankful for its inclusion on the pcb.

Oh wow! that's awesome. the Clone Theory is my all time favorite chorus. I hope for a quiet one. some day.

Cheers to that! This has always been a safe place and I feel respected here.