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This guy is one of the weirdest people Numberfile interviews on the regular, and since they interview mathematicians, that's saying something ...

Cliff is the man! He's always genuinely excited about the stuff he talks about. Never fails to put me in a good mood.

I've got some relay debouncing code up over here that can switch between toggle and momentary modes. Currently, it needs an external toggle to go between modes but I'm planning on playing around with this more after this semester is over (only 2 more weeks!).

Maybe there is a second, smaller engine under the hood driving the supercharger?

Put good quality masking tape on the bottom plate before sticking on the velcro tape. Then it all peels off when you want to.

+1
Good tape sticks fine and peels off clean.

So you want to switch between 3 different inputs with only one stomp switch? Only way I can envision that working is with relays and a microcontroller. Short of that, you should be able to wire up a box that can switch between up to 4 inputs with 2 stomp switches.

Yep, a set of these....

WOW that is a cheap set. Do you own it?

Yep. They are a bit crap but more than good enough for aluminium. Just don't expect them to work for much else.

Yep, a set of these, a small drill bit and a hand drill is enough for pretty much all of my builds. I have a small desktop drillpress at home but for enclosures I never use it.

Imgur is what I've been using lately. They even have pre-formatted BBCode for posting images.

Yep, locking star washer goes on the inside of the enclosure, not the outside. Not only does it look nicer, it actually works better because it literally "locks" the body of the switch to the inside of the enclosure.

Great looking build, good luck keeping it clean though!

BTW whats the screw-head in the middle for?

cool build. it's like a chevy s-10 with a corvette motor tucked under the hood.

Unsure on your location, but this is an Alabama-approved description 

Nah, you gotta put it under the hood of a Ford instead. Really gets under a Ford guys skin

was reading up on this last night... due to accidentally ordering 5 builds' worth of 1/8 watt instead of 1/4 watt resistors in the last tayda order.  i'm sure they would all be fine to use but decided calculating safety for each one was too much brainwork compared to the $5 to go buy replacements from the local electronics place.

on topic, as others have said tayda is amazing for passive components and hardware.  if you're in australia the shipping is stupid fast, got last order in 2 days.  can heartily recommend.

Ohm's Law for this is:

Minimum Resistance = Max Voltage^2 / Wattage Rating

So for a 9V circuit, you are good with 1/8W resistors down to 648ohms (9^2/0.125). Anything below that, you want to use a higher wattage resistor.

Not worth the hassle IMO. One misplaced foot can equal a broken PCB (been there, done that).

If you insist, only solder a single leg on each jack so you have a bit more wiggle room the first time you put the pedal together. Once everything is lined up, solder the other legs after it is assembled. Other than that, Dave's advice is spot on.

Huh. That seems so obvious. Suprised it hasn't been done before.

Not entirely convinced about the improved signal, anti-crackle stuff. Usually, signal loss is caused by oxidation and I don't see how this setup prevents that.

Definitely want to try one out though, seems like it would hold a cable in super secure.

There are a couple of schematics here that are at least inspired by the Acapulco Gold. Looks like it would be pretty straight forward to trace from the vero layout at http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/11/earthquaker-devices-acapulco-gold.html though.

If you do end up tracing, you can always post your schematic here for a sanity check.

I've always been a sucker for paisley, looks great imo!