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I posted this not long ago: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32813.msg315471#msg315471

Created in Open Office, but there is an Excel version in the zip

I've got this sitting in my garage right now:







Bought new in the mid-late 60s by my parents (for my accordion lessons, ugh).
I haven't messed with it for about 5 years.
Several of the pots are garbage though.

This is what I use.
Its an Open Office Calc file .ODS.

Anyone that wants it, its attached.




EDIT: Updated zip file "Parts_List_BOM_2.zip" has Excel 97/2000/XP .xls file added.
Scroll bars are a bit funky.

I've been binging various shows on Amazon Prime the last few weeks.
Currently on Farscape.

[Feeling fairly crummy, little aches and chills, but nothing too bad.]

Got second dose of Moderna on Wednesday.

Feeling fairly crummy, little aches and chills, but nothing too bad.

First shot didn't get any side effects

I got my second shot about 18 hours ago,
Achy, light fever, kind of weak, but I have had far worse.
Left arm where I got the shot hurts though. Can't move it much without pain.

I'm moving in 2 days. I'm ain't doing shit today.

Got the Moderna and the first shot made my arm pretty sore the next two days and i felt barely a little funky the next day.
Getting my second dose on April 3. My wife was pretty down for a day after her second dose of Moderna.
I'm finally feeling a bit optimistic. I'll be considered fully vaccinated on the 17th of April and we're going to try to get some Mariners tickets for that weekend. WooHoo!

Got the Moderna today (yesterday)
My arm was sore before, so kind of hard to tell at this point.

My wife got her second shot about a week ago. I'm on the wait list for the first shot. No telling when I'll get the call.

I wasn't sure when I would be eligible...
Until earlier today when I got an email from Renown (basically the huge medical conglomerate that has their hands in damn near ever medical office in the area).
I'm scheduled for my first shot this Friday (March 19)

If you know what pedal it is just by the topology.
If you have a schematic, but no values, that's not a problem as you have them memorized.

I ordered some off of Amazon from a company called Hayes Paper Company...
https://www.amazon.com/Hayes-Paper-Waterslide-Water-Slide-Printable/dp/B07F26V391/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_0_4/141-2835431-3456007?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07F26V391&pd_rd_r=4b669a03-e5ad-4b58-8f44-31392626bb17&pd_rd_w=twbph&pd_rd_wg=l2iV0&pf_rd_p=45ea3989-28e2-45c9-97ac-7e99f613a91b&pf_rd_r=BPJ3VS2QZ7VA4T5Z7HVS&psc=1&refRID=BPJ3VS2QZ7VA4T5Z7HVS

Haven't tried it yet, so I can't speak for the quality. But that company came up high on a review/comparison of several different waterslide decal manufacturers.

read my original post, hopefully it (Hayes) works better for you than it did for me. I, too, was excited by the reviews but the stuff just didnt work great for me. After I had such a bad experience, I went back to the reviews and read some of the negative reviews and it seems they were describing some of the exact issues I was having. Basically whether you leave in the water for 10 second or even 60 seconds, the backing doesnt come off well and the decal begins to deform and basically become mush before you get it off. It's possible its a batch issue so hopefully you will have better luck. If you run into the same thing and figure out a solution, I am all ears. I still have 14 sheets of this stuff left.

edit: just to be clear, the Hayes I used was the clear waterslide, not the white like you linked. You may have better results.

I went ahead and ordered some Sunnyscopa and will give that a go.

Thanks for the recommendations, guys.

I must admit, I didn't read your entire post.

But as soon as I can, I'll report back here my results.

I also get my water from a well.
City water may very well give different results. And possibly different results from city to city I would think.
But I'm no chemist so I have no idea if my thinking is correct, just trying to consider all the possible variables.

I ordered some off of Amazon from a company called Hayes Paper Company...
https://www.amazon.com/Hayes-Paper-Waterslide-Water-Slide-Printable/dp/B07F26V391/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_0_4/141-2835431-3456007?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07F26V391&pd_rd_r=4b669a03-e5ad-4b58-8f44-31392626bb17&pd_rd_w=twbph&pd_rd_wg=l2iV0&pf_rd_p=45ea3989-28e2-45c9-97ac-7e99f613a91b&pf_rd_r=BPJ3VS2QZ7VA4T5Z7HVS&psc=1&refRID=BPJ3VS2QZ7VA4T5Z7HVS

Haven't tried it yet, so I can't speak for the quality. But that company came up high on a review/comparison of several different waterslide decal manufacturers.

Vox AC30 for me.
Didn't buy as a pedal platform, bought because it produces my favorite amp sound.
I am thinking about getting an AC15 as well.

200 sold in less than 2 hours.

MG Chemicals Liquid Tin
You can find it on Amazon.

How does that type R tip work - does the solder paste hold the component in place?  I'd be worried that I'd miss and squash the chip or something. 

The link: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_r.html
Has a picture on its use.
You can size it by several dimensions.
Keep your hand steady and there should be few issues, the paste should provide enough hold. Use a light touch.

See the image on that page?
The SMD IC?
The tip I used was only a bit larger than the leads on that chip.
And I mainly did those chips. But would swap tips for caps, resistors, etc.

Its really not that difficult to make your own though.
An exacto blade or a dremel and your options are damn near unlimited.

Edit:
This one is similar, but seems to be a bit large: https://www.amazon.com/American-Hakko-Products-Inc-3-2Mm/dp/B001HPGJ02/ref=sr_1_221?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron+tips+type+R&qid=1602570568&sr=8-221

Edit2: I've browsed Amazon a bit and I can't find anything like what I used. I'm bit surprised at that. It proved to be a very useful mod. And this was back around 87 - 89

CodeMonk, what are the Hakko codes for those? Do they affect your technique?

On the whole, I kinda like SMD. You don't have to clip fifty damn component leads, that's for sure! And if you want to fit a huge, complex circuit into something smaller than a shoebox, you kinda don't have much of an option.

I just did a quick search on Hakko's web site.
Something like this: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_r.html
Looks like you may have to do a bit of searching to fine tune the size (and other factors I guess).
That page shows soldering the entire component at once.
The tips I had were much smaller than that and did one lead at a time.
We also did all that soldering under a microscope.

You could always make your own I guess.
Only takes a exacto blade and a few minutes.

Shouldn't really affect technique.
But it does require a lot less time to heat things up and get solder to flow.
It basically heats up the pad and the lead at the same time, with a lot more contact with both surfaces.

I'm not currently doing any SMD, but i do have a few designs, in my head, that will require SMD. so I will be looking into this sometime next year.