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Those Belton Bricks are really voltage sensitive with an operating range of 4.5 to 5.5 volts. 
If your 5 volt regulator broke down, I'm guessing you had -9v directly to pin 1 on the BTDR-3H.
I think this would cause the Belton Brick to fail. 
Maybe others who have experience with this brick could chime in.

Sounds very plausible!

 Well it was bound to happen, at some point. I was building a Rubidium reverb ( DBA
Reverberation Machine), and I wired the 9 volts to the board backwards.
I already replaced the 78l05, and the TL074 IC incase it fried them.
Will reverse voltage take out the Belton BTDR-3H.
  I'm not getting any effect, so I was curious if it could be fried?

Sweet! Thank you sir!

 So I wanted to build the new Madbean project,
But Small Bear is out of stock, of
The FV-1 IC chips. Is there anywhere else I
Can purchase these?

Well I obtained a DoD octoplus, at a flea market,
And, it's giving me trouble. I've checked it, with
A new battery, and power supply.
  At first, when I would plug into the
Input, it would automatically, be in
Effect mode, and work. Than when I go to
Click it off, (bypass). It won't turn back on.
I've tried several switches, (momentary) and
They do the same thing. I checked the circuit for
Dead caps, fiddle with it, and than it switches, off
And on, no problem! So l box it back up, and it's,
Back to it's old tricks!
  I really do not know (nor understand), how the
Switch interacts, with the circuit, turning it off,
and On. Let alone what the true problem is. I
Have wired up 2 different switches, with the
Same problem, so I really don't think thats it.
  Any idea's on where in the circuit I could look.
Or is it maybe bad wiring, to the input, and
Output jacks?

Nice!

I had no idea Alvarez had ever made electrics.  That's cool.  Their old acoustics are rad--especially the ones from the 70s.  Actually, even now they made rad acoustics under the Yairi name.  Where is yours made, anyway?  For the original price I'm assuming it's Japanese.  Is that right?

Well, that's where it gets a little tricky. It was said, they were made in the U.S., but I know my other Alverez was made in Korea, made of cheaper quality, but played great.
 
  The Trevor Rabin models, I think were made in 2 different models. 1 U.S. made, and a cheaper import. So I'm pretty sure this one is Korean made.    I have the warranty card, and stuff that came with it new. It indicates being made in U.S., but I don't think so. They use decals to give make, model, and serial numbers, but no location of manufacturer. By the way it's built, it seems import.

But, yea, they made several models in the 90's. Some of the best were Dana Scoop models. There would be a gap in between the neck and body (no wood), and the body meets up with the upper arm. Was supposed to help tone in some way, but who knows. Interesting deign though

 3 years ago, I got ahold of this guitar, to set It up, replace parts, and get it back
To the way it should be. Well, the original owner decided to let it go. I told the
Owner, back when I fixed it up, that if she was to sell it, let me know. I already
Have a solid body Alverez electric guitar, back when they were discontinued,
And I always liked the feel of the neck (minus it's other short comings).
This guitar is a AER300BK Trevor Rabin signature model.
 
So, I had to take it apart (again), and clean it up (smells like cigarettes and alcohol)
Get it back into shape. Back in the day (1993), it retailed for around $900, and I
know the Original owner payed that for it. It has it's plus and minus points to
It. Like a brass block on the Floyd Rose, adjustable saddles on the bridge, split
Coil switch, on the humbucker, a very nice cutaway, for the upper frets, neck
Through, curved body that's real comfortable.
 
   The negative points, would be, the way it's put together. Stuff, that should have
Easily been caught, like the spring claw for the bridge, is way off. The wiring mess
In the cavity, a guitar tuner, that is a liitle crooked, and I am not sure about the
Pickups. The pickups have no labels, or markings, to indicate what they are. They
Sound really nice, thick, with gain. I noticed though, they feedback really easily
(Which I wonder if they really just need swapped out). I got it for $200, and I really
Love the neck, and how easy it is to get up, high on the neck. I think that's what I
Like the best. Other than that, it stays in tune, and plays awesome.

I would like to find out more about the pickups, if anyone has any info, that
Would be helpful. Otherwise, I'm gonna try to keep it as original as possible.

After buying up rolls at Radio Shack,
I have been buying rolls up, at a flea market,
I go to. I mean, they sell them 50 cents, to
A dollar, so why not!
  I think I've picked up, about 10 full rolls
Within this summer hunting. I'm afraid
That sooner than later, we'll have to
Use the lead free crap.
  I did buy a large roll of kester solder
Recently, but it's tarnished. Anyway to
Clean it up? Does it mess with the
Performance of the solder, or not?

Are you planning on opening up a store to sell all these rolls of solder?  If not, how exactly do you plan on
using every bit of solder?    Unless you plan on ingesting it.

I am a sucker, for a good deal! 50 cents, to a dollar a roll, why not!

I also found a Fluke model 23, for $5.00.
Do I need it? No, But for $5.00, it's mine!

It's mostly abstract paranoia for me!

I have not heard anything about it not being made anymore,
I just figured it was a going to happen!
I work in the automotive aftermarket, and without much announcement,
a lot of item's that contained certain solvents, were changed, with no
notification. It changed the products drastically! Same thing, with
spray paints. They just all of the sudden, sucked! So with all the restrictions,
that used to just effect California, hit everyone!

After buying up rolls at Radio Shack,

Where did you find a Radio Shack??

Before they closed!

  All the other solder I have found, is just different size rolls, by
different companies.
  I found 1 old roll of kester so far. It's just so cheap, I can't help but
buy it up for the lead free factor

I'll repeat my recommendation once more: Felder Iso-Core Si100Ni+ for lead free. You should give it a try. It's very easy to work with and the joint looks just like a leaded one. Nice flow and reliable joint. It does wear the tip faster than leaded but that's mostly due to me not cleaning the tip enough during a job. Seriously, I see no reason to use leaded after discovering this stuff, only for repairs on vintage and pre-ROHS gear.

  I will keep this mind, when they decide to quit making, lead solder.
I guess I could buy a roll and try it out!

I was just curious, if anyone else, was buying up solder, before they make
it all lead free!

Now, when you say full rolls, are we talking like a pound? I buy kester by the pound and it lasts about two years. I don't k know nothing about tarnished solder though.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No it's not real large rolls, but they last awhile! I just found one
that did not have the shiny sheen to it. It just looked like a dull grey.
I just didn't know if it would effect the solder joint, using tarnished
solder.

 After buying up rolls at Radio Shack,
I have been buying rolls up, at a flea market,
I go to. I mean, they sell them 50 cents, to
A dollar, so why not!
  I think I've picked up, about 10 full rolls
Within this summer hunting. I'm afraid
That sooner than later, we'll have to
Use the lead free crap.
  I did buy a large roll of kester solder
Recently, but it's tarnished. Anyway to
Clean it up? Does it mess with the
Performance of the solder, or not?

The RH

Got mine ordered! Of couse, it looks like you have
A larger supply now!

 The suspense is killing me!!