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It would be serendipitous if the diy community flooded Reverb with Lizard Queefs.
A call to Arms!... Or Irons!

I'm planning to build one called Original Design Ljzard.

Yep.  When JHS demonstrated it sounding like a Klon, I thought it would have taken the mystique out of the Klon, but nope.  Instead, we get mystical monkey mojo.  I'll build one for a laugh.  It seems like a fun project.

congratulations!

But, is it normal, that when I have it in Hi-Lo mode, with the Gain at about 9 o'clock, the Hi & Lo knobs at about noon, Bias full CCW, that even with the Level all the way up it is just under unity volume? This has just been at 9v. Have not tried 12v yet.

I just tested mine at those settings.  I am at unity with Level just a hair past noon, and it definitely gets louder as I move the Level up from there.

I have another Archibald question. The build doc says:

Before powering up for the first time, set the T1 trimmer to 50%. After powering up, use your DMM to measure the voltage at the test point. Adjust T1 until you read about 6.3v for the heater voltage. With the trimmer in the middle, it will already be very close to that.

I have only had to bias a pedal couple of times so I want to be clear on how to do this. With my DMM put the black lead on a ground point on the pedal and the red lead on the pad that is labeled "63.v TEST"? Because of the higher voltage in this pedal (my first tube one) do I need to be careful of touching anything while doing this??? And do you have to re-do this bias if you move form 9v to 12v and back?

No special precautions are needed here, other than being careful around that LM317 voltage regulator.  It gets mighty hot.  And once you get the heater voltage adjusted, it will work for 9V or 12V without needing further adjustment.

Yes, black lead to ground and red to the test point.  Set your DMM to DC voltage measurement mode.

I use a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Digital

One of the 12v outputs?

Yep.

I use a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Digital

Have you gotten any bonded wire from the 'Zon? I've thought about trying it to save me some time tinning and having a neater appearance.

I haven't.  My biggest issue in the past with cheap wire is the temperature at which the insulation melts.  I almost exclusively use Smallbear's wire. 

If you happen to use Switchcraft jacks, I have repeatedly bought them on Amazon.  10 for $20 with free shipping.

Other things I have bought:  trimmer assortments, metal film resistor assortments, stripboard (make sure you specify FR4 so you don't get phenolic by mistake), bus wire, solder....

I have at least two builds in my pipeline that I wouldn't mind diverting to a donation queue. I need to find time and cooperative weather to get the enclosures finished, but the guts are complete and working.

I still have a bit of Radio Shack wire and desoldering braid.  I possibly have some parts still in their packaging if I look hard enough.  Will report back for nostalgia sake. 

This is my second blueshift build. I took what I learned from the last one I did nearly 3 years ago and tried to do it it better.

My god, man!  The Blueshift is a rite-of-passage build!  You are only supposed to build ONE in a lifetime!   

Nice work though. 

A broken or missing ground connection, perhaps?

... but could do a run from Elecrow or JLC if there's interested to make it cheaper.

I'd probably buy one if you do a run.

Happy Birthday!