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Messages - WormBoy

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General Questions / Re: Soft true bypass?
« on: January 16, 2018, 10:40:15 AM »
There was an MB board (the Softie), about to be released, but withdrawn again. You can read about it here: Other suppliers are offering relay bypass boards though. I personally like the clunky, dead-simple, low-current requiring 3PDTs though  8).

How Do I? Beginner's Paradise. / Re: SMPS Project?
« on: January 16, 2018, 04:52:31 AM »
Tube Town in Germany has a kit for a module that turns 12V into max. 220V @15mA: I built one of these, and it works, but I still need to build a pre-amp with it, so it is not tested by me in practice yet (not sure if that would be a real recommendation anyway  ;D).

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Simple Road Rage Question
« on: January 15, 2018, 01:59:50 AM »
Maybe they could get them for cheap ... or it is a protection against major fluctuations in the mains voltage ... or the circuit draws so much current that the voltage supplied by the wall wart sags ... I really donít know. However, as the entire circuit lives behind a voltage regulator, you only need to make sure that you supply the regulator with a constant high-enough voltage so that the regulator stays happy  8)

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Simple Road Rage Question
« on: January 14, 2018, 03:00:35 AM »
Center positive/negative only relates to the plug you use to power it, and nothing with the circuit itself. Positive/negative ground is more important, but this is a regular negative ground circuit. So you can just use one road rage to get you 18 or 24v. If you power it with 12v, make sure the voltage doubler chip can handle it, and make sure that the voltage rating for the caps (particularly C4) is high enough.

Oh, and check current consumption of the circuit. I guess you will have to use the LT1054 as you will need the extra current. Also, you may want to check the schematic for your version of the mistress: the input is regulated down to 12 or 15v anyway in the mistress, so feeding it with 18v (and thus powering the road rage with 9v) may be enough.

VFE Projects / Re: Alpha Dog Clipping
« on: January 13, 2018, 03:08:01 AM »
Noon would effectively take the diodes out of the circuit, they are never really really entirely out.

VFE Projects / Re: Alpha Dog Clipping
« on: January 12, 2018, 01:51:29 AM »
I was already wondering what such extreme asymmetric clipping would sound like in this circuit. It might sound better when dialling in the hard clipping after it? Extreme asymmetric clipping does not sound very pleasing, to my ears at least. You can always replace the single diode with a pair (one in each direction, same or different type), and play around with different diodes until you get a sound you like better (very much like people do in other soft clipping circuits like the TS).

You just need different shoes, maybe.  There are plenty of vids of folks with shoes using zvex probes.
Yes, but the Wumpus is not identical to the Zvex probe. There are a few differences in the antenna circuit part, but I have no clue how they affect sensitivity. Plus, a lot will probably depend on the antenna (size, shape, material, placement). And, donít forget the choice of LED and LDR ...

If it only works with bare feet or socks that would be a pity ... At home, fine, but on-stage I am not going to remove my shoes to go sock-hoppin' wah-in' ;D. As the Wumpus closely resembles the wah probe, I have hopes that it can work with shoes, if needed with some tweaking (the probe seems to work ok with shoes).

That sucks ... when you mention potentially blowing an LED, In this circuit, the LEDs have no limiting resistors whatsoever. The tapanatorator has a similar BJT/LED setup but does include a limiting resistor (330 Ohm, running of 5V). Perhaps the antenna driver of the Wumpus is never able to turn the transistor fully on, or my knowledge is insufficient, but if you indeed have a blown LED I would like to know. I am in the process of building one myself, still waiting for some parts.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Road Rage w/ 4.5V output
« on: December 31, 2017, 09:25:16 AM »
If you only need 9 and 4.5 volts, the road rage is not a very practical place to start from. Just build something on vero with a voltage divider, regulator, or a rail splitter like the TLE2426.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Pig butt low volume, low unity gain?
« on: December 20, 2017, 04:49:00 AM »
At least that narrows down the problem to IC2 and surroundings. Did you use an LM741 for IC2?

You could check again for poor connections or solder bridges on the IC socket, R9, R10, C6 and the diodes. If there is a connection between pin 6 of the IC and pin 2 (you could try testing with the multimeter), that might explain something (at least the volume drop).

Problem might also be the IC itself, so you could replace it and see if that solves the problem.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Pig butt low volume, low unity gain?
« on: December 18, 2017, 04:05:26 AM »
A larger value for C1 will let more lows into the circuit. There might be a small difference in volume with different caps, but nothing spectacular. So that's not the reason why volume in your built is low. If everything checks out and there are no obvious soldering problems, I would try audio-probing to see where the sound disappears; that might give a clue where the problem is located. If you look at the schematic, the first opamp stage will boost the signal, the second will boost it even more, and the third will suffer with the SUS pot maxed (and try to boost more, which makes it distort). Again, I never built this pedal, so someone who has actually built it may be able to provide better help ...

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Pig butt low volume, low unity gain?
« on: December 17, 2017, 06:30:18 AM »
Haven't built one myself, but no more than unity volume and fuzz with one guitar but no so much another (for a pedal described as a "wall of fuzz") ... sounds like you have a problem. The 8.87V on the supply is not the problem, and neither is the output resistor (which seems superfluous anyway).

I would start by checking the values of the resistors by trying with the DMM (which might not work well in the assembled circuit) or reading the color bands (which works if you have good colour vision, which I haven't). I would start with the ones that modify the gain most in the circuit: R2, R3, R6, R7, R9, R10. If they are correct, I would check their soldering, as well as the soldering of C4 and the SUS pot (as well as its value).

General Questions / Re: Silent Momentary switch with Pot
« on: December 09, 2017, 02:37:32 AM »
Great! I love simple solutions  ;D. This trick goes into my archive; bound to be useful for future builds.

General Questions / Re: Silent Momentary switch with Pot
« on: December 06, 2017, 01:29:33 PM »
In the Triton design, there is a pot that deals with the speed of the transition. Plus, you might be able to use a smaller cap and still avoid noise. My guess is that the noise creeps in with a switch as there will be a tiny moment when resistance is infinite (in between the two positions). If you would use an LDR with a square wave LFO, the resistance will never be infinite, and the shift will not be instant as the LED and LDR will have a non-zero response time.

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