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I just got a new Win11 computer, and I'm starting to install the software. I have been using Eagle in Win7 (wait for laughter to die down). I know Eagle's gone in '26. I have been thinking of jumping ship and going with a freeware like KiCad. My hesitation is i have spent HOURS customizing parts in Eagle. There will be a learning curve for Fusion 360, so I guess to make a long question short...
What software do you guys use? 
TIA

Thank You MB

Increase R3 for more volume. Try 470R, or 680R.
It just came to me. this portion of the circuit is series, and I is constant in series, so E has to increase, more E = more Vol, I guess. DUH, sorry

MB, you have given me a lot to go on. Thank You.

Increase R3 for more volume. Try 470R, or 680R.
Please explain why, in this case, when you increase the R, will that decrease I, or increase E?

Then check the voltage at the collector of Q2. You'll want something around 4.5v. Adjust R5 as needed.
This is one of the few things I Do know.

TIP: add a 1k resistor in series between IN and C1. That can help prevent oscillation when the guitar knob is rolled all the way down.]
How does it do it? Do I need to learn more about RC circuits? (we already know the answer is yes )
And should I do that all the time, or just for Fuzz?

In conclusion, in your vast experience , should I try to modify the board I have now, or re-work the whole thing on a breadboard, and make another PCB?
Thank You for your time knowledge.

In reference to the pedal I recently built:
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=35008.0

Consider this schematic:


NOTE: Q2 is missed labeled. It is really a 2N2222.

This is my problem. I get a noticeable drop in vol when I turn on the effect, and hardly any response at all, either vol or fuzz, unless the guitar is cranked up. But when it is cranked, it sounds great.
Now I've only been doing this stuff a couple years, and so far I've only been "painting by numbers", and am slowly learning what effect each part makes on the sound.
If I had to guess, I would say maybe adjust the value/taper of the 500KA vol pot, but I wouldn't bet money on it.
Any ideas will be helpful, and as always, TIA

Thank You both for your kind words.
Actually, the graphic is just a glob of smooge that is spiky from the audio waves.

It's been a while since I finished a pedal. This is the Chocolate Fuzz, built on our old friend the Fuzz Face. I have modded it to be a bit more Bass friendly.

Outside


Gutshot


And the side no ones gets to see

Exactly, what I mean.
I'm looking for what they call 1 oz.

I'm guessing the big smiling "A" isn't it. I welcome your opinions.
TIA

Ok, I believe I understand now.
It's the fact that the audio jacks from different pedals are referencing different polarities, retaliative to themselves (right concept?), that when you daisy chain, those two "unique potentials" will now be connected, and therefore no longer unique, therefore shorting out.
Gentlemen, and of course Ladies:
Am I even close?

I'm going to try my hand at a germanium fuzz. I found the ElectrSmash site, and have decided to (kinda) emulate that.
There is just one problem for me, this paragraph:

Only using a 9V battery, no external power supply: The original Fuzz Face using PNP transistors uses "positive ground" that means that the input and output jack are referenced to 9V (instead of ground). You can plug it to your pedalboard or amp without any problems BUT if you use a daisy chain or non-isolated power supply to power it, they will create a short. The best way to avoid conflicts is just to use a 9V battery, the low power consumption of this effect (2.5mA) will make your battery last for very long.

I consider myself only a seasoned newb to this stuff.
I can't visualize/understand the DC itself shorting, if neg is connected to the spot in the schematic that denotes neg, and then pos, to pos. *note* I use plastic dc jacks.
Is he saying the 1/4" guitar patch cords may/will short? i.e. the practice of using a stereo jack on input as a switch? I thought the input/output caps were there to filter dc from the i/o and prevent that.
And if the 1/4 will short, then what difference would the power source  itself make, if the ped was in an audio daisy chain?
Would insulating the jacks from the box have any effect this?

I feel this is a concept I should *fully* understand, and thank you all in advance for any insight.

Hmmm. That's a tad to consider. I had thought it may be the input cap. As far as if its in his rig? He has since given the pedal back, so...
I don't hear any feed back, but again, I testing using a Bass, or a 6. both played through a 25w Bass amp.

OK, let me hijack my own thread: What effect on the sound does the bias on Q2 have?

I can start a new thread, if I should.
TIA

I modded a FF with a bigger input cap for Bass. I loaned it to a 6 string friend of mine who wanted to check it out. He found he got a hint of feedback if the gain went past 1/2 way.
Here is the schematic:
https://ibb.co/6FJw2fJ
Do you guys think maybe it's transistor bias? I'm still kinda a newbie, so I'm not sure where is start.
TIA

I've been comparing the schematics of the EH Bassballs and the Slurpee. I noticed a 2.2M connected from input to ground. the other end is connected to a circle with the word pin inside it. The other circle with a pin inside on the schematic is connected to ground. Does that imply that both ends of the 2.2m is connected to ground? and the input also. i don't know a lot, yet, but this doesn't make sense to me.

I have a scrap computer I need to off, and see I see a lot of yt vids on this. Has any here did this? is it worth it?
TIA