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I have a bad habit of putting resistors back in the wrong bin

I think that was the case in 1 or two of these mistakes. r values put into k value bags or vice versa.

I had a similar run of flubs and it pushed me to get one of the cheap Tayda testers

I'll take a look at those!

Thanks again, all!

I found the problem! A 470k where there should have been a 470r.
*Face palm*

Good lord. Same thing on the moodring. A 470k where there should have been a 470r. I've never made that mistake before and I just did it on 3 simultaneous builds! Where is the face palm emoji?! Thanks again for the help and making me a little better at problem solving. I'll be checking that from now on!

Thanks for spotting those, somnif! That did it for the Kingslayer and I combed through the resistors on the greenbean and found a similar mistake. Both those are up and running! When I get time I'll do the same with the moodring and HOPEFULLY it's that simple for that one as well.

With ic's pulled I get about half the value that each should be.
Note: I also populated the Greenbean and the moodring along side this and the greenbean is doing the same thing, zero output and the moodring is at half volume. I've had dozens of successful builds and did nothing new. I don't know what is causing 3 failures in a row!!

So I just populated this Kingslayer, it's the second time I've built this and the first one sounded AMAZING. This one has zero sound. My voltages are all way off and I can't find the problem! Any ideas???

I have my moodring all put together and I have tested it wired non- true bypass and true bypass and it has really low output both when engaged and bypassed in the non true bypass mode. It's like not all the guitar signal is getting through. The verb controls all seem to work. I've been re-flowing all the connections to no avail. My IC readings are all within .2v of where they should be EXCEPT I'm getting .002v on leg 2 of IC2 and 2.25v on leg 5 of IC4. Also, the status led wired to the pcb isn't lighting (I checked the LED and it's good).

The simple solution of shorting out those two solder pads didn't work. Throwing in the towel on this one but thanks for the help!

So on the component side it looks like 1 has a trace to 4 and 2 to 5 which makes no sense to me and I can't see anything else. I numbered the holes for easier reference.

Well I'll have to pull the switch again so I can get a pic of the back side as that's the only place there are any traces that I can see. I'll do so when I get a chance. I just thought someone might have dealt with this pedal before and have the experience or resource already. Wasn't expecting any crystal ball action

I have buddy who had the switch crap out on his TC Electronics HoF pedal. He tried to replace it himself but he burned/lifted all the solder pads for the switch lugs. I tried to visually trace where the go to attempt to jumper the lugs to their first destination but I can't make heads or tails of where they are going. For the most part they don't seem to go anywhere. First, would jumping them even work? And if so, does anyone know how to do it or can you point me in the direction of a resource? Thanks!

Will do! I hope it's that simple. Thanks.

Let me know if you find anything. I'm just gonna deal with it for now, I don't have the time to tear it apart at the moment.

I built a couple morning glories from etched boards. Beautiful overdrive, one of my favorites. They work great but they seem to pick up noise from the enclosure, like if you tap on the box you can hear it. It's not a big deal as I don't really tap my pedals while I play but I was just curious if anyone else had run into this with this circuit or any other.
Thanks!

So I replaced the charge pump, no difference but replacing the tlc274 fixed it. I don't know what the deal was so I replaced the 9.1 zener and upgraded C23 from 16v to a 50v as a precaution. We'll see if it happens again! Thanks for your help guys