Messages

Sorry to say, but using a color changing LED and a pedal don't mix.

There is a way to get one running, but usually it means using a different power source, and some circuitry to seperate the two circuits.

Go back to the usual one color LED's and you'll be fine.

Jacob

But...but....but...! Fine!

So. I built my buddy a SHO using this vero layout:


And Madbean's off-board LED wiring scheme:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=707.0;attach=226

The only subs I made are 2.2M resistors in place of the 10M resistors.

It sounds GREAT! But, I was feeling novel and put a color-changing LED in. It changes colors and looks really sweet, but causes a siren sound as each color fades out and flashes. WEEEEEEOOOOoooooOOOEEEEEEET. WEEEEEEEET.WEEEEEEeeeeeEEEEET. Like that

Any way to kill that apart from just switching out the LED to a less ridiculously fun one?

Son. Of. A. Bee sting! That was it!!!

To top it all off, I made the mistake on TWO levels. First, I didn't read the resistor code correctly (but I'm not fully color-sighted). Second, when I measured those resistors before I put them in, they measured .470k, not .470m. But, I didn't read the measurements correctly.

Dang! SO glad it's fixed!!!

Thanks, guys!!!!!!!! It sounds GREAT!

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Cam

Thank you, sir! I appreciate your help!

Bummer is, though, that it didn't help. Replaced the poly cap with an electrolytic -- still no joy. What next?


(On another note. I think Keeley has a bit of an affinity for the tantalum caps. He considers them an 'upgrade' to some extent. I don't know why -- for reasons of reliability or some kind of phonic preference, but I decided to use them where he did for my buddy's sake. It's what he asked for )

Oh yeah, lastly, when I dime the SUS control, at the very end of the sweep it makes a 'woosh' sound, like when biasing a transistor. No idea how relevant that is, but thought I'd mention it.

Many thank yous!!!

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Cam

Thanks, guys!

I subbed the tants because that's what Keeley uses in those positions and that's what my buddy wanted. He uses the non-polarized 1uf in C6 (as far as I can tell, based on a photograph and trace on FSB), too. But I'll swap it out for an electrolytic and see what it does

Just for the sake of understanding -- why willn't (generally -- theoretically...) non-polarized caps work in place of polarized? I'm happy to know THAT they won't, but would love to understand WHY they won't.

Thanks again, fellas! In due time, I'll be more of a contributor and less of a leach...


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Cam

Is it so obvious that it's not worth telling me (like what my wife says when I don't know 'what's wrong')? Or have I stumped y'all, too?


I guess, what I really mean is....


Bump


Thanks again, guys. Hope you don't mind me bumping this.

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Cam

[RQ1: E - 1.65v, B - 2.10v, C - 7.98v MQ1: E - 2.39v, B - 2.97v, C - 6.84v]

Still no go. Now I've REALLY tried everything. Well, obviously not, I guess -- since it still doesn't work. But everything I could think of, which I admit, is very little. Anyhow. Here's what's up now.

Replaced the 1k resistors with a 2k trimmer.
Replaced all the transistors with 2N5088s.

Now, I get signal...but only if the sustain and level controls are both DIMED! I double-checked my pots, they work and are of the right values and in the right places. So it's not that...but wouldn't it have been great if it were...

But I have some more data! I found some voltages taken off a Ross. Here are the working Ross voltages, compared to mine (RQx = Ross, MQx = Mine):

RQ1: E - 1.65v, B - 2.10v, C - 7.98v
MQ1: E - 2.39v, B - 2.97v, C - 6.84v

RQ2: E - 2.34v, B - 2.87v, C - 7.28v
MQ2: E - 2.37v, B - 2.93v, C - 6.87v

RQ3: E - 9.5v, B - 0v, C - 0v
MQ3: E - 9.2v, B - 0v, C - 0v

RQ3: E - 9.5v, B - 0v, C - 0v
MQ4: E - 9.2v, B - 0v, C - 0v

RQ5: E - 9.0v, B - 9.32v, C - 9.50v
MQ5: E - 8.7v, B - 9.20v, C - 9.24v

Now, slap me if I'm wrong...but they all look good 'cept Q1, right? Q2 is off, but it doesn't look like too bad -- the greatest difference is about .4v on the collector.

Also - here are the IC voltages from that same Ross and my build (pins 1 and 8 are unused).

R2: 4.92v
M2: 4.76

R3: 4.91v
M3: 4.76

R4: 0v
M4: 0v

R5: .633v
M5: .633v

R6: 2.76v
M6: 2.92v

R7: 9.5v
M7: 9.23

Looks good to me, but what do I know?

Also, here are some photos of the front and back sides of the board.



Lastly, here again are the links to the layout and schematic:

Schem:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dnr_ross_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

Layout:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dnr_ross_lo.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

What next? I feel like I'm getting SO close! But I'm plum OUT of ideas, save pull and replace every compoent one-at-a-time...

Thanks again, fellas!

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Cam

Do what you gotta do, Beanster! I'd hate to think that my silly desire to reproduce effects helps to throw your life out of balance!!!

If you need to retire even more projects to squeeze in nap time, I'm all for it

Do you have any 5088/5089's to try? You can use them to eliminate the pinout confusion of the other transistors and see if the problem lies there or elsewhere. Also, try just one 1K resistor in place of the trimpot as I'm pretty sure I remember setting the trimmer full on and full off = no sound. Subbing two 1K resistors is the same as a 2K trimpot full on.

One more shot in the dark: is the IC orientated correctly?

Thanks! That's kind of what I was planning. I just hate to irder a buck worth of transistors and pay the shipping...but it's what I think I must do.

I replaced the 1K resistors with a 2K trimmer. I set it to half way. I guess I can monkey with it and see if it's the problem. I considered the IC also. It's oriented correctly. And I'm losing signal before I even make it to the IC. So...poo...

Thanks for the help! I gotsta get this fixed!

Welp. It appears I was wrong...

I've put installed these trannies in damn near EVERY configuration -- exact same problem. As I poke around with my audio probe, I get signal at Input, C2, R1, C1, and R2 (though it's quite quiet there...). Then -- NOTHING! If I'm reading the schematic correctly (and that is questionable...), then I should be getting signal AT the base of Q1, but I get nothing...And nothing at the emitter either.

I'm almost certain, after much testing and scouring, that the pinout of my trannies is standard (that is, EBC, looking at the flat side, pins down). I've reflowed every solder joint and 20-tuple checked the wiring. I've exhausted my imagination about what might be wrong. So...here's what's going on.

Same thing -- no output when engaged (bypass is fine). Switch works correctly. LED fires as expected. The only subs I've made are 2SC1849s in place of 2N5089s. IC is CA3080E (not a sub). Here are the voltages I'm getting on the trannies (Trannies are labeled differently on the schematic than they are on the layout. The following accord to the schematic)...

Q1: E - 2.38v, B - 2.94v, C - 6.86v
Q2: E - 2.09v, B - 2.65v, C - 7.13v
Q3: E - 0.4mv, B - 0.5mv, C - 9.11v
Q4: E - 0.5mv, B - 0.8mv, C - 9.1v
Q5: E - 8.63v, B - 0.5mv, C - 9.15v

So...uh...yeah. I have no idea what that all means, but there it is. What's my next move?

Thanks again, fellas!

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Cam

rule out the obvious stuff first before you go digging around in there. stuff like powered properly (ie 9v), proper solder connections, knobs/trim pots in reasonable positions, nothing shorting to ground or the enclosure

Thanks! I'm inclined to believe that those are all fine. That is, I KNOW the power is good (PP2+ and battery). And the I have no reason to believe that any trimmers have moved or solder joints have broken, or that anything is shorting (I've NEVER opened it up and risked braking anything, it's always worked fine, volume seems to be getting lower and lower, etc.).

But, now that I think of it...it MIGHT be power...hmm...I have daisy-chained one PP2+ tap to power a few pedals, but everything on the chain (couple of ODs and distortions) requires something like 2 - 10ma. Should be WELL below the 100ma that output provides. But that just might be it. Hmmmmmm. I DID plug a new pedal into that chain last night, which might be drawing enough current to choke out the TS808. Though, all the other pedals on that power chain worked perfectly...Time to whip out the meter, I suppose!

I didn't know where to post this. If it's in the wrong place, I humbly beseech one of our FINE mods to relocate it appropriately. Here's the deal!

I have a Keeley TS808 and it seems to be losing output level. It used to give me quite a volume bump when engaged (as expected) but NOW, I DIME the volume control and it's quieter than the bypassed signal.

With my newly acquired DIY skills (embarrassingly limited though they are) to fix it myself. Where should I start looking? I'm thinking I'll start with the IC...

Yeah, fellas. I'll consider putting a clip up. I'm loving the crap out of it! Though I did sub (as recommended in the build doc) a 33n for C8 and 10n for C9 (well...two 5n in parallel). I played it with my rig and it just smoked. So rich and thick and blah blah blah. I didn't expect it'd be MUCH different than my Keeley DS-1. But, whoa mama, did it sound good. A clip won't happen for at least a few days, though. I have the gear to do it, but live in a little apartment. My neighbor bangs on the wall whenever I play -- even at bedroom levels. So I have to figure out the logistics

Sounds like switch is fine to me.

Can you post a picture?

Jacob

Certainly. What would you like me to aim at?

The switch won't make a difference. I used a DPDT footswitch for mine.
I'd say the switch is the problem too. Although maybe a bad cap?
To test the switch, simply switch your DMM to the continuity setting, or if there isn't one, the diode tester will work. Just put one probe to each lug on the switch. The meter should read a default reading when the switch is off. Not sure if all meters are the same, but mine reads '1', then when the probes are connected it drops down to zero, so you should see something like that when the switch it turned on, if it's working fine.

Thanks. Yeah, I did that with my DMM. But, since it only has two lugs, I can't test which is always on. I'd need three to do that (Measure 1 and 2 for continuity, flip switch, measure 2 and 3, then test 1 and 3 in both directions. That's enough info to deduce which lug is always on.).

I definitely have continuity in the 'on' position. And definitely don't have any in the 'off' position. And, in neither case are any of the lugs grounded out, as far as I can tell (no contuinity to ground). But I don't think that's enough to know which lug is always on.