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Special thanks to DiabloChris as I got a December pif from him of his empty hearts fuzz which is Devi Ever's legends of fuzz. He built it in a 1590a, I did not. He included deas for some mods that I couldn't not do. So basically now it is at least 5 different DE circuits. Many different flavored of fuzz especially for those who like to make noise
Some of the DE effects are Soda Meiser, vintage fuzz machine, legends of fuzz, and I can't remember the rest. I couldn't remember which switch positions were which circuits so I just used pictures! I think this is the best complete theme pedal I've done as far as graphics so here it is:


The guts are spaghettified.

I finished up a sweet multi! Thanks go out to Rej for the Octane Overdrive, Pickdropper for the mini phase 90 board, and Barry at Guitarpcb for the mini me chorus. This thing kicks ass! I've modded the chorus to have three delay ranges. The center of the switch is short, in the flanger range. You can get a pretty good mild flange sound out of it. The up position is Chorus range and the down position is Deep chorus/pich shift/wackiness. I also added a mix pot and a dry kill switch. The other two circuits are stock.
And now for the lessons I learned portion of today's lecture:
1: make sure to install the 3pdt pcbs in the proper orientation. It doesn't effect the function but it messes up the signal flow wiring which I was trying to minimize... So I turned the switches around to avoid crossing in and out wires making for a tight fit.
2: sharpie can come back from the dead I sanded the enclosure clean. It looked great! I install the waterslide decal nearly perfect, I'm feeling good about this one! Spray on a coat of clear... What is that... It came back so now some of my drill markings are visible... I'll call it a feature...
3: ... There's another lesson in there that I already forgot
So here it is...


And now some spaghetti!


I originally had a guitarpcb phase 90 in there but I wasn't sure how to fit it or mount it so I said screw it and bought one of pickdropper's phase 90 boards which fits great!
I also took the time to get the right resistors to roughly match the brightness of the LEDs (and also make sure they weren't blinding).
This pedal sounds great! It's not noisy at all and All three effects sound great when on at the same time! The stomps are a bit clunky but you get what you pay for, they work.

I build all these stompboxes so I can activate them while playing guitar and then I spend most of my time sitting on the floor adjusting knobs and activating the switches by hand...

I've built my honeyed ripper and got it working but there is a hiss present on some of the settings. It's different on each vowel sound and there is one or two where it isn't present. Is this normal for this circuit? I don't have it boxed so maybe it's just interference and it will go away when I box it? It's not terrible but definitely noticeable just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I do have an lt1054 in there that I got from mouser so that should be good.

Dumb question, I'm wanting to build simple a parallel loop/bypass box with blend knob in a 1590b but I can't decide on how to orient the jacks so I was just looking for opinions and wondering what fallbacks/advantages of certain layouts I may not have thought of. The first though was portrait orientation with In and Send on the right side and out and return on the left. Or landscape orientation with all 4 jacks on 1 side. There is also landscape with In/out jacks on the short sides(seems impractical). Maybe others I haven't thought of. So what do you think? Also I searched for templates and didn't come across any but I know I've seen them before if anyone knows of any that would be great, not really necessary but helpful.

This is Brian's excellent Stage fright phase shifter. It is a very versatile phaser from really slow to warbly and the different character of 5 or 6 stages. I love it.
I'm now addicted to designing (hacking from google images) my own "art" for waterslide labels. It has actually motivated me much more to finish pedals especially if there is a good theme! I drilled the box according to the build doc and realized that some of the ICs I had sockets for we're not going to have enough clearance from the jacks so I had quite a bit of rework on this one but I love the end product. It turned out to be one of my neater looking guts.

I just noticed that Merlin has a new pt2399 chorus here http://valvewizard.co.uk/jennygreenteeth.html
I hadn't noticed any discussion here or at DIYSB about it though I know the combination of the words "pt2399" and "chorus" brings weeping and gnashing of teeth for some people. I'm not sure it is something I will add to the "to build" list or anything like that. I just thought I'd mention it since I hadn't heard of it yet.

I'm not a bass player and don't have a bass to be able to breadboard and experiment with but I'm planning on building a pedal for a bass player friend. He said he really likes the Darkglass Microtubes B3K which uses CMOS but there is not schematic for it out there. He wants "something smooth and crisp. like a really good guitar tone but for a bass" This isn't the best description but I'm wondering if I could at least get somewhere in the neighborhood with something like a Red Llama with an added clean blend. Any other advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I built a multiplex a while back and love it! I built the modulation board on perf and modded it so you can have modulation on either or both delay lines of the multiplex. The second build is a Rebote delay on vero, it's the first rebote I've built!!! This is also the first time I've used waterslide decals! I like it but I need to perfect my methods and also be more patient as twice I tried to spray the clear coat on too soon... I left the rebote as is because it wasn't too bad but I redid the multiplex decal. The rebote is for a friend, this is the first build I've made for a friend as well! Without further ado here they are


Oh, this is also the first time I've used jumbo jewel LED indicators! Love the way they look.

So I just ordered the ZPDD and the ZP Micro and my thought is to put them in the same box and be able to use them as separate delays and to have an option to have triple delay because why not right? I'm planning on putting the zpm first. My thought is to have a splitter blend to have dry signal in parallel with the effect then leave R4 off so there is no dry coming from the Zpm. Then I send the output to the ZPDD which I think would have R4 on a switch for dry kill to extend the delay or in the circuit for 2 separate back to back delays. Does this make sense? Is there anything I'm missing? Would this even be worth it?

I'm building a delay for a friend that has played acoustic in a band for quite a while but just got an electric guitar. She doesn't know anything about pedals so I want to build a simple delay that sounds good and is user friendly and fairly low parts count. I'll probably build on vero. I've built a handful of delays already but I'm just looking for a good "first pedal" delay. I'm thinking about pairing it with a cj shoot the moon tremolo that I have oshpark boards coming for but would need to fit in to a bb size box. I may nix that idea if real estate is an issue though.

C14 and C15 are 33uf which I don't have. Correct me if I'm wrong in any of my conclusions. They are in the negative feedback loop of the lm324 which is part of the lfo I believe. They are in series but are facing opposite of each other ie the negative legs are connected. What are they doing in that configuration? Can I sub in 22 or 47 Uf caps with reasonable results. Just for fun I'm going to guess what they are doing, I think it has to do with the max rate range of the lfo, if I'm right increasing would make a longer possible sweep and decreasing would make a shorter possible sweep. I'm probably way off but hey this is how I'll learn!

It's getting to be a problem, so many cool circuits... must... have... at least... one of each. I don't know how much more the bank account can take. I want to buy more even though I have at least a pile of 10 recently purchased pcbs waiting to be populated with more on the way... The kicker is that while I enjoy building on pcbs as much as the next guy, I kind of prefer the process of vero more...
Ugh... its a sickness.

This is a Rub a Dub deluxe reverb built on the vero layout from Tagboard effects. I put the brick on regular perf board and mounted two of the pots to the board. I "sewed" the two boards together and ran wires to the brick. I didn't want to have anything dangling. It was a lot of work running all the wires to the brick And mounting the pots on the same board, I'll probably elect to go with a pcb for the next reverb build but this one has character. I'm pretty excited about the finish! I work in aviation and I've been thinking for a while how I can incorporate an aviation theme. This is an old navigation sectional chart, I cut a piece out and ran it through the laser printer for the labels and then glued it to the box. Keeping with the theme I used aviation grade adhesive
Then I clear coated it. It turned out pretty good for the first time. The corners show some of the glue and aren't all attached as well as I'd like. So anyway here is the part you've all been waiting for.

I've been in a bit of a rut lately for actually finishing things. This was a great opportunity to break out. The enclosure is recycled. It originally housed a professor tweed that was sold and returned due to static that I couldn't get rid of. The board is a Madbean Boomstick that was already populated and soldered by another forum member it was just missing some pots and switches. So this was a perfect marriage of reusing previous builds! The Boomstick sounds Great. I left the bass switch off as it didn't seem to do too much for me.

It looks like they raised the price on Xicon metal film resistors I bought a bunch a month or two ago for 1.8 or 1.9 cents maybe less at the qty price break of 200 now they are showing 2.5 cents each... I guess that will drastically slow down my conversion...

I'm debating ordering some enclosures from either mammoth or BLMS. I love the blms enclosures as they are nice and solid and great prices as well, plus the customer service is top notch and I usually receive my order within like 2 days. That said I kind of want a taller BB size box and BLMS doesn't have those. My question is about the quality of mammoth enclosures. I seem to remember the walls being thinner and seemingly slightly lower quality. Is my memory of mammoth's enclosures correct or was that some one off enclosure I got from somewhere else? The only reason I care is that one time I was drilling for the jacks and the bottom of the enclosure busted out. I was drilling fairly close to the bottom and probably going too fast but it seems like a thicker enclosure would have held up better.

I like to sell a few pedals from time to time not making much money but a little extra for the next parts purchase. I don't really have any local connections so I've mostly sold via ebay... first mistake right? haha. well I sold a germanium fuzz face which I built a while back, I breadboarded it and swapped out trannies until it sounded good (i'm using MP20A russians). The guy I sold it to gets it and is disappointed with it, he says "I purchased a fuzz face, this is not a fuzz face this sounds more like an overdrive." I'm not the biggest fuzz afficionado so ok maybe it's not quite right... I don't really take issue with that. The guy has just been a smug asshole which is just infuriating. To quote him "I'm 55 years old, I've played more fuzzes than the hairs on your head and this is not a fuzzface" Now he is demanding I refund him and pay return shipping because the product was not as advertised... ugh...

Is there a particular version of the lt 1054 that I should order? Would it work with other charge pumps? I just want to make sure I'm ordering the right part.

I'm working on a multi with a distortion, phaser, and chorus. I currently have the phase and chorus pcbs on the breadboard they are guitarpcb dr phybes (p90) and mini-me chorus. I'm running the phase into the chorus. When I switch the feedback on for the phaser I get noise from the chorus clock, it's a chirp sort of sound. Is this something that should sort itself out with careful wiring once boxed? It seems to be fine without feedback on the phase shifter. If the noise is inherent, I'll just leave the feedback switch off.