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Another fan of the Epi Dot here, think its a ridiculous amount of guitar for the money!

The ES-339 is a little to small for me, but also love the Epi Sheraton (despite the Liberace gold hardware).

Been really enjoying 'Fortitude' - It has a Twin Peaks vibe to it.

There was a time where you couldn't walk into an Urban Outfitters without seeing some variation of a Joy Division T-Shirt 

And is it wrong that I kind of want theses oven glove?

True, But going by H&M prices, looks like they will do anything to save a cent off the production cost of a shirt!

And the suits in legal don't have to worry about their made up bands saying or doing anything controversial that could harm the H&M brand.....its all very sad all round!

No royalties to pay with fake bands!

Hits hard for 1973!

The Albums Placebo and 1973 are really worth checking, truly ahead of its time.

Most of the time, that being 9 out of 10 in my case, pedals that are coming back for repair have electro-mechanicals problems, switch (toggle/stomp), potentiometers, etc...

I agree with you, but when it comes to repairs I tend to see far more vintage units, where its leaky caps and components drifting well out of tolerance that are effecting the unit far worse then a the scratchy pots that need some contact cleaner.

And its not as if optos/relays are electro-mechanical free options, you still have a mechanical foot switch, even the relays is mechanical.

And then there is the kicker, that most people buying pedals want true bypass in DPDT or 3PDT form......its what they know, and what they trust.

Though I have no doubt they will die out, and be superseded over time.

Benefit of no LED is that you can stick to the good ol'Carling DPDT I guess. I would also venture that if you need an LED to tell you when your fuzz is on you are doing something wrong 

Exactly right, in both the Carling's being top-notch, and your fuzz not working if you need a LED 

The other problem I (and others I would imagine) face is convincing the general public that other bypass schemes are ok.

Any mention of relay based, or even worse optical based, bypass and most of the customers I build for run for the trees 

This is very true, IMHO. I have NEVER been asked to put optical or relay switching in a pedal, Mod or repair, its not even come up in conversation (despite its merits).

Guess I have just been lucky, but I don't think I have had a bad 3PDT for over a year 

Had some really cheap ones from Tayda that really didn't like the iron to hot. but other then that I have nothing but love for 3PDT.

Always thought adding opto or relays is just adding more to go wrong.........but I'm so oldschool I'm only just considering it not sacrilege adding a DC socket or LED to a fuzz box! 

I have a couple of the all in one ebay cheap Chinese specials

But have found For ESR, the ESR100 unit is the best by far, and for transistor test swear by my Peak DCA55 Atlas Semiconductor Component Analyser (if your going to be testing lots of GE transistors).

http://www.justradios.com/cart.html

Yes, have used them a few times, the shipping cost is not to bad to Europe as well!

Very cool!

If you plan on doing any more of these, shoot me an email and I will donate a few pedal kits!

Use a 5v Solenoid? (this is a electromagnet that goes in and out, so good for this "tapping" application)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Parts-DC-4-5V-40g-2mm-Push-Pull-Type-Electric-Magnet-Solenoid-Electromagnet-/121478797441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c48b35881

Then you could control it with all manner of things from a 555 chip, to a Arduino micro-controller (Arduino would be a really good device to use for this project as you will learn very simple code to set when the Solenoid is on or off)

Do you know where to get the eagle lbr for those Lorlin rotary switches?

Dose the CK103x04 part in the library "Switch" fit the Lorlin rotary switches?

(this is a question, more then an answer!)

Really nice! Can I ask what that silver thing is that says 5000J?

Yes, these are Polystyrene (Styroflex) Capacitors (5000 denotes is 5000pF/5nF/0.005uF), they have fallen a little out of favour as it's hard to find them in a good range of values, but I personally really like using them for input/output caps as they have such low leakage, low dielectric absorption and low distortion, so used a 5nF for the input, and 8,2nF for the output on this build.

You only really see them in audio applications now days.