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Messages - HamSandwich

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1
Open Discussion / Re: Mammoth Electronics Acquisition
« on: October 15, 2019, 11:47:31 AM »
I'm going to say Not Small Bear or BLMS based on their responses over on DIYStompboxes. I think we are a thorn in the side of Mouser and Arrow. I'm going to go for an oddball - Stewmac.

You can't just drop a bomb like that and not explain as to what happened on DIYStompboxes. Not everyone goes there.

You mean everyoneís daily ritual isnít wake up, coffee, puup, check DIYSB and MB forum?  ;D

2
Open Discussion / Re: Mammoth Electronics Acquisition
« on: October 14, 2019, 10:07:19 AM »
So where's your money going on who's buying them? Mouser, Tayda, Arrow, Digikey, Farnell, Jameco, Pololu, Small Bear, Facebook, Google......?

I'm going to say Not Small Bear or BLMS based on their responses over on DIYStompboxes. I think we are a thorn in the side of Mouser and Arrow. I'm going to go for an oddball - Stewmac.

3
Global Annoucements / Re: New Projects Are Up!
« on: September 22, 2019, 09:20:03 AM »
You could blow out the Polytrog boards you already have as unsupported seconds, (or as a giveaway) and let the builder worry about the 18V source.
It would be a way to get some use out of them without the pile becoming landfill.

Agreed with this. Hell, if that's the only problem, I'd buy one at regular price!  :o

4
Open Discussion / Re: Xcorcist pedal install pots
« on: September 13, 2019, 03:30:05 PM »
Or a pliers and bend it off.

As for the solder side, I suggest using something non conductive between the pots and the board - electric tape, cardboard, or Ďpot condomsí.

5
General Questions / Re: Sometime circuits squeal, sometime not
« on: September 11, 2019, 02:25:50 PM »
I hate to say it, but I'm with Worm Boy - new power supply. You might be able to fix it for your two pedals, but who knows in the future. A $20 1Spot (I guess it depends on where you live) may get you there

7
Hey. Cool build! I think you will need to get a common anode LED instead of common cathode to make this work. If I were trying it I would ignore the LED pads on the PCBs and bring 9v straight to the anode. Then I would choose resistor values for each cathode that give even brightness between the colors. Then each cathode would be wired to its corresponding switch with its resistor wired between the cathode pin and the switch lug.

Agreed with taking the LED, resistor and switching away from the board and wiring directly with resistors from the +9V to the anode(s). Should make it less dependent on whatís happening on the boards. You could do common anode or cathode this way, and more easily change resistor values if you find some colors are brighter or darker than others. You can run your ground back to anywhere, but try wherever it is youíre Star grounding.

8
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Trouble with the Harbinger two
« on: August 21, 2019, 01:15:51 PM »
That's some bull shit, the board is faulty?

Pretty sure he said it was the potentiometer, not the board.

9
Open Discussion / Re: NPD: Boss dd-7 not happy :(
« on: August 16, 2019, 10:39:42 AM »
Can you try without the Pod?

10
VFE Projects / Re: VFE Project DC Voltages
« on: August 06, 2019, 10:42:43 PM »
Using the Zener rating is probably OK for the VFE stuff because it uses a very particular and what looks to be an extensively thought out power system.

In general, your best bet is to take stock of the active devices and figure out what the max voltage is. For example, if you look at the Ice Cream schematic, the 15V Zener may tell you what the max voltage is, but it wonít tell you why. Look up the data sheet for the TC7662 and youíll see the max input voltage is 15V, which would be why. That chip wouldnít be happy at 18V. It is also the chip that supplies the -V for the bipolar supply.


11
VFE Projects / Re: VFE Project DC Voltages
« on: August 06, 2019, 10:34:56 PM »
The Ice Scream runs on a bipolar supply, so it doesnít need an artificial voltage reference, it just uses ground.

12
VFE Projects / Re: VFE Project DC Voltages
« on: August 06, 2019, 06:58:40 AM »
I wasnít sure if you were building from scratch, or talking about a project, but for a circuit that runs properly biased at 9V, itíll be fine at 18V, no worries there. For running the screamer at 18V, just make sure your caps at rates at 25V!

For the Zener, you donít want to go much over the rates value, or (I think) you start creating heat and noise, although the diode and inductor before May help limit that.

13
VFE Projects / Re: VFE Project DC Voltages
« on: August 05, 2019, 08:01:29 PM »
Iím not familiar with the VFE stuff, but maybe I can help with your 4558 question!

Itís not the best practice to run things at their rated specs. Thereís stuff out there thatíll be ok, but you do increase the risk of failure. For 4558, running it at +/- 15V is perfectly fine as Ďbreathing roomí. You could probably run it at +/-18, but at its limits, you increase your risk of failure.

The input differential is the total input voltage between the two inputs of the amplifier, not the power for the IC or the input voltage. The power for the IC is the operating voltage (+/-4V to +/-18V) and then the input (signal voltage) max is +/-15V or less depending on the what voltage your powering the IC from. Youíd have a hard time getting +/-15V swing out of your guitar without trying very hard.

Note that the +/- voltages can also be relative to ground as in your 18V and ground comment, so +/-18V could be viewed as being able to run the IC at 36V maximum.

But to answer your question, yeah youíll be fine powering it from +18V. Depends on the circuit, but to gain the benefits of increased voltage, you have to raise your bias voltage up to 9V instead of the typical 4.5V. A schematic of what circuit youíre talking about would help. Iím guessing the scream?

14
Open Discussion / Re: What are you playing? (games)
« on: July 28, 2019, 06:51:06 PM »
Outward is fantastic on Steam

15
I donít have a clue, but Iím going to say C from round was one my favorite, A was my least. Otherwise Iíll forgot when the results are in!

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