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You could use an LM317 and make it variable! Calculate resistors to put on the rotary for various voltages, or use a pot and a simple digital volt meter. Wouldn't that be neat.

The first half of the compander chip is being fed with return of the loop of the feedback as well, so I'm not wholly convinced it's impossible for it to be something further down the line.

Does twiddling any of the knobs cause changes in the noise?

It would be great to check another commander chip, but you could try someone radical. Take the chip out, stuff a makeshift jumper from a resistor lead and jumper pins 6 and 7 together and also 14 and 11 together. I think that should remove the compander from the equation and allow you to get signal through. Feedback might be wonky, but if that isn't really the case, turning it all the way down should negate it.

Hope that doesn't blow up your MN's 

What's your feedback set at? Your description sound like run away oscillation.

I think you'd be surprised at the robustness of some of today's power supplies. I breadboard with a 1spot and have had no issues. I believe it has some shut down protection that cycles every few seconds if there's adverse conditions.

Can't speak for Maddbean (I always assumed Eagle since he provides Eagle libraries), and you didn't ask for it, but I use EAGLE and OSHPark to print them. You can use OSH's eagle design rules, you don't have to deal with whatever the f a gerber is. It's easy peasy.

Shit man. That is rough. Will be giving these guys big hugs today.

Has anyone played Witcher 3? Just came out on the Switch and have considered picking it up. Haven't played any of the other Witcher games. I'm a big fan of Elder Scrolls, Dark Souls, Nioh, and the like - is Witcher 3 comparable?

I think your best bet is to design it in stereo, then give it mono capabilities. If you want to keep true stereo, you'll need the circuit you posted twice with a left and right input. You can wire one input with a switching jack so that when there is no plug inserted, the signal coming from the mono input is split to the unused stereo circuit. That should be all the switching you'd need to do, no need for toggles or summing circuits.

I'm going to say Not Small Bear or BLMS based on their responses over on DIYStompboxes. I think we are a thorn in the side of Mouser and Arrow. I'm going to go for an oddball - Stewmac.

You can't just drop a bomb like that and not explain as to what happened on DIYStompboxes. Not everyone goes there.

You mean everyone's daily ritual isn't wake up, coffee, puup, check DIYSB and MB forum? 

So where's your money going on who's buying them? Mouser, Tayda, Arrow, Digikey, Farnell, Jameco, Pololu, Small Bear, Facebook, Google......?

I'm going to say Not Small Bear or BLMS based on their responses over on DIYStompboxes. I think we are a thorn in the side of Mouser and Arrow. I'm going to go for an oddball - Stewmac.

You could blow out the Polytrog boards you already have as unsupported seconds, (or as a giveaway) and let the builder worry about the 18V source.
It would be a way to get some use out of them without the pile becoming landfill.

Agreed with this. Hell, if that's the only problem, I'd buy one at regular price! 

Or a pliers and bend it off.

As for the solder side, I suggest using something non conductive between the pots and the board - electric tape, cardboard, or 'pot condoms'.

I hate to say it, but I'm with Worm Boy - new power supply. You might be able to fix it for your two pedals, but who knows in the future. A $20 1Spot (I guess it depends on where you live) may get you there

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/polarity_reverser/polarity_reverser.htm

Sho nuff

Hey. Cool build! I think you will need to get a common anode LED instead of common cathode to make this work. If I were trying it I would ignore the LED pads on the PCBs and bring 9v straight to the anode. Then I would choose resistor values for each cathode that give even brightness between the colors. Then each cathode would be wired to its corresponding switch with its resistor wired between the cathode pin and the switch lug.

Agreed with taking the LED, resistor and switching away from the board and wiring directly with resistors from the +9V to the anode(s). Should make it less dependent on what's happening on the boards. You could do common anode or cathode this way, and more easily change resistor values if you find some colors are brighter or darker than others. You can run your ground back to anywhere, but try wherever it is you're Star grounding.