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IMHO it doesn't seem worth it to bring lots of parts to a gig. What kind of gig would you have where a resistor or cap will fail, and you'll be able to find the problem between sets and fix it. The only times resistors or caps fail is if they're used in extreme temps where you could play your guitar.

So to sum up, fixing battery snaps and such is worth doing, but if you blow a cap or ic or if a switch fails, you won't be able to diagnose the problem and fix it properly at a gig or on the road. MUCH more efficient to bring spare pedals and cables in case you get a failure. Buy a PTNano and use the gig bag to carry 4-6 pedals easily.

Now if you're building a mobile rig to fix other peoples pedals, I'd use a a fishing tackle box so you can separate parts into the little bins. I have a setup like that.

For gigs, it's not worth to have a repair kit, more like an emergency kit. And an emergency kit is a well documented phenomenon in guitar gigging.

Jacob

I should mention that I'm leaving for tour for a month in two weeks. I would just hate to have something I could fix on the road but not be able to because I didn't have the tools or parts. a few tours back the other guitar players cab fell over and his head dropped on the sidewalk. We ended up having to go buy another amp to finish the tour out and when I got home it was pretty simple stuff like broken wires and a few pots that pushed through the back wafer.

funnily enough not having time to fix stuff on the road is quiet the opposite. There is ALOT of downtime on tour and sitting around in empty clubs for hours with nothing to do.

In the past most of the problems that come up are battery/power related or loose wire related type stuff.
common problems are like xlr jacks getting pulled out of mics and stuff like that.

Other times it might be something like a blown power tube or popping fuses. 

I'm putting together a mobile repair bag to keep in my gig bag.. it will be a small tool bag about 10"x4x4

so far this is what I have:
triplett pocket autoraning dmm
9v batteries
9v battery snap (most of my repairs have always involved broken 9v snaps)
bag with scraps of wire
2 4" pieces of heat shrink
dispenser tube of solder
desoldering braid
wire cutters
grab bag of electrolytic caps 10-220uf for blown power caps
a few leds
4 1n914 diodes
2 1n4001 diodes
1 switchcraft mono
1 switchcraft stereo
3pdt stomp switch
1 spdt toggle
25w soldering iron
little iron stand
jeweler screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
adjustable wrench

I have no idea what kind of resistors I should bring, or nF/pF caps. I can always pick stuff like that up at radio shack. no idea if I should bring pots too? I figure if I bring a 1M and 100k I can always lower the value with resistors. I did think I should bring some 24mm 500k's for guitars.

I am also debating bringing a wire stripper.. which I probably should do, I just don't have an extra one and I was trying to put this together with scraps.

I should probably bring some 1/4" jacks too to repair cables.

you're going to want a speaker simulator on the output, for going direct.  Either a filter on the output or a standalone box, for direct into PA.

Yeah, you would want to know if he's running that as a PA into full-range PA speakers or using the Fender PA as a head going into a guitar cabinet. If it's a straight up full-range PA, you might need some kind of speaker simulation to get it more "guitar-like."

Some of the runoffgroove projects would apply here, along with the SansAmp project.

Non-DIY route, there are the Tech21 pedals. They do speaker simulation along with preamp.

J

It's a fender tube bandmaster tube pa into guitar cabs. I saw the byoc parametric project and it is cool but I HATE the layout. probably something ROG will do it. I built a flipster for bass and I love that circuit.

one thing about the build documents that I really like is most of the new docs have the BOM and the parts layout all on one page. if at all possible please keep this up. I usually print just the pages I need to save paper, and it saves alot looking around too.

sad news. I hope he is jamming with philo up in heaven.

I tested this out at practice tonight and it RIPS. i was glad to have the sub switch too because when I tested it at home with the strat and the blues jr. I need the subs on but at practice I was playing a les paul through diamond spitfire II (100watt 12ax7/el84 monster) through a 4x12 and I had to turn the subs off because it was way to woofy and muddy. It could have been a les paul thing too. It sounds awesome though totally nails the AC/DC thin lizzy stuff.

Honestly the new build docs are amazing as far as describing how a circuit works (circuit analysis) and how controls work (I especially love this because I hate pedals that have stupid control names like (glass, or pinch, etc), possible mods, really awesome.

My only complaints lately are the projects with mojo parts layouts because I have a decently stocked bench with radial caps and 5mm box caps in most values but when I want to build a project with mojo parts like the rangemaster/snack shack/etc. I have to track down the mojo, most of the build reports I see people end up using box caps and radial electrolytics and bending the leads to fit. anytime there is a layout for mojo there should be links to a source to order the part that was designed to fit it, and maybe list the lead spacing... I know it could be measured but sometimes you order parts before you get your board... I do like the snack shack board where there are holes for mojo and 5mm caps.. stuff like that is cool.

I think hardest part for beginners is sourcing parts, and a lot of the questions on the forum are about parts selection. Maybe a section of the site that shows how to figure out what to order for a project for beginners.

as far as the layouts go they are the best around, especially the newer fabbed pcbs that are wider but shorter (new wolfshirt/boomstick) I like these shorter boards better than a squared board that leaves space on the sides because vertical space is always tight while you can go as wide as a 1590b and be fine. also for me personally I wouldn't care if you dropped the onboard CLR's and led switch pads because I don't use them.

I don't do any sanding. sometimes I hit them with an aluminium oxide sponge but only if they are really dirty or off color. just clean them with acetone and hit them with spraypaint.

I like the bigger enclosure it gives more room for everything. I hate zvex pedals with the candy bar layout because it's easy to step on the knobs. I guess I could have done it vertically but any time I have 5 controls to fit on a pedal I like to do a 1590bb sideways.

I just finished up the boomstick 2.0 with the fabbed board. the mods are AWESOME. although I would probably leave them on all the time. This is easily the most natural sounding distortion pedal I have heard. it behaves extremely amp like it's kind of uncanny. Tons of harmonics and the perfect tube crunch. I'm in love.

artwork and pedal name after the damned song NEAT NEAT NEAT. this pedal sounds like the damned to me. I can't find any info on what kind of amps they used but this nails the sound.

the paint is rustoleum painters touch GRAPE gloss. really good spraypaint. it comes out very thick and sets up into a NICE thick gloss.

I just tried this out and it works the way you described it. It sounds really ripping with TONS of sustain. I also used the creamy dreamer values so it's pretty ridiculous. damn near infinite.

I have a friend who is looking for a deluxe preamp pedal with a 3 band eq and a presence not unlike the dr. boogie but not as high gain as the dr. boogie. he's using an old fender p.a. and it doesn't have a whole lot of tone shaping. does anybody know any diy projects out there that do this kind of thing.

I like the first one the best. it looks the most styling. the middle one looks like it would get really dirty and look bad with sweat on it. the last one looks cool becuase of all the features and toggles but thats it.

glad it is working. your build was too clean to not work. did you really order 1/8 watt resistors for all those slots? thats impressive most of us just bend 1/4 watt resistors to fit.

Thank you that looks like the best PRO option. I found some stuff on ebay for cheap but most of it is insert cables for studio and not really long enough for a stage. It's going to be about $50 for an 18 footer from redco.

I am trying to make a 4 channel switcher for my friends tremoverb and I am  having trouble finding a 4 channel 1/4" mono snake. It doesn't have to be sheilded or anything it's just going to be used for shorting tip to sleeve to switch the relays in the amp.