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There's also the possibility of another delay. I've been working on it for a few days and it sounds pretty damn awesome. It's PT2399 based but it's got some features that no other design has, AFAIK. I started it last year but decided to go ground up on it this week. Biggest feature is the ability to select three different "model" types, analog, tape and one other that I have yet to name. Lastly, I'm trying to work out a faux "tape warble" on the repeats (not modulation exactly, but true up and down pitch bends).

Anyway, just another one to put on the burner.

You can also socket R12 and try a lower value. It may be that your particular build wants to bias a little bit closer to 15v than it can get with that 82k resistor there.

Kind of a stumper. I'm leaning towards a biasing adjustment being needed, too. Sounds like the LFO is doing what it needs to do, and the MN3007 is doing it's thing, but it won't bias properly. I don't think you need to replace the MN3007.

First thing I would do is socket C18 and try some other values there...15pf, 33pF, 47pF. This should help "reset" your clock trimmer. Try that and let us know what you find.

I've never had an issue with faulty TC1044s, so I think it's safe to just use that. It's normal for it to get warm, but not excessively.

First, are you getting 18v out of the charge pump portion of the circuit? Try removing IC2 and IC1 and then measure pin8 of IC2. Does it read ~18v?

Also, double check to make sure you have used two 27k resistors for the voltage divider that creates the Vb supply rail. It should measure about 4.5v.

I've actually considered this several times but never got around to it. Actually, I've never built one at all!

In my experience, the LM317 does not perform too well when used with a charge pump once a load is applied to it. I've run into a similar problem with some sub-mini designs....it just does not regulate that well.

The problem with re-adjusting the trimmer is that it's possible it could spike at some point and then bye bye BBDs from too much voltage.

IOW, use what is recommended in the docs. A 15v T0-220 type regulator.
http://www.mouser.com/Power/Power-Management-ICs/_/N-6g7lv?Keyword=lm7815&FS=True

Nice work, and very clean. I probably would not have noticed the air bubbles had you not pointed it out. You could always grime it up to give it the well used look.

Definitely the Freq should be external. The Peak maybe not so much. Although there are some variations to be had in setting the Q I think it's more set and forget.

For the Freq, you could use either a regular pot, or one of the 11 detente ones. I'll also have an alternative mod using different caps if you want to do set frequency filtering (like the Clyde wah). You could do that with either a 3-4 position rotary switch or with this one (if you want to make the little companion PCB):
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=581

I'd like to see the Rump Roast project and also the weener wah..or is that planned a little later?

The Weener Wah is already on "pre-order" for this month. I haven't uploaded the docs yet.

Here's what I plan on doing for sure in Feb.

Kingslayer (awaiting last prototype, mostly done)
Stage Fright (awaiting last prototype, mostly done)
Collosalus - verified

Here's a list of other projects that could be released (these are more or less done with a little more work):

Boneyard
Cherrybomb
Deadpool
DeadRinger
PigButt - IC Muff w/ tone bypass
RumpRoast - sub-mini tube
Harbinger - Univibe
Mudbunny with PCB mounted pots
Nautilus - Mutron iii --- long shot, but possible
FishFace  - (filter, sample and hold) - long shot, but possible

So, of the second list, what are people interested in? And, what else (that I have previously mentioned but not listed) are people wanting the most right now? Keep in mind, I will be limited to three, maybe four other projects beyond the three "for sure" ones. Most likely I will need to re-order something by Feb. so we'll see what funds I have available to do all of this.

Please give your feedback since this is an opportunity to decide what's available in February!

All the film caps have additional pads underneath that are 5mm spaced. The electrolytics have additional pads at 2.5mm. So, you can use radial or axial caps in any combination you like.

Plugging my 89 Strat through my Konnekt 8 and using the Guitar Rig tweed models yields some good tones. I do prefer using plugins for rough demos and stuff. It's just way more convenient when tone is not critical.

It could be an issue with the regulator. It sounds like it is not doing the job very well under load. If you have another one, you could try breadboarding the RR with a new regulator and see if you get better results powering the DB. That would tell you if it's the regulator causing the problem.

I think the "F--k this, you build it" thing is kinda funny. Probably a little too tongue and cheek for the average consumer who most likely has no clue about some of the history between DIY and pedal makers.

Nic seems like a very genuine guy from the few conversations I've had with him...I think he's just having some fun.