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That's it I was thinking of right now... Not so sure where to add this since I'd like to make just the detection of the octaves be more responsive. When I add a booster pedal before the input it affects the filter part of the circuit and drive the drive too which is not ideal...

I still don't understand why reducing R5 didn't work. I mean, I guessed 4024pin 1 would be the input of IC2 but I got it wrong?

Where in the circuit would you put that JFET?

It didn't work... soldered a 500k pot for R9 so I tried  all possible different resistances for it. The result is that only the final volume of the octaves changed; the dropout time kept being short.

I also tried the same strategy for R5 but nothing happened at all, which seemed very weird.

After giving up on messing with the circuitry, I put an overdrive pedal with maxed volume and gain before Glitchee and tested it. The results were very interesting: Glitchee behave in a 8-Bit glitching way with no dropout. Depending on the guitar pickup and tone it would rather keep glitching for sustained notes or just sustain it normally. Despite the huge gain being fed into Glitchee after the overdrive, it's output was pretty normal, so in the end, just the sustain of the "Sub" and "Low" was affected, which is pretty much what I wanted.

Does anyone know if it'd be possible to do all this inside Glitchee (so no external pedal would be needed)? If thomasha is right about 386 being maxed out, I'd guess it can't be done...

There's some very heavy low pass filtering going on before the signal from the LM386 reaches the CD4024. Are you playing way up on the neck when the octaves drop out, or does it happen in lower registers too?

In the high register of the guitar, the dropout is happening much quicker, but overall, the octaves are dropping out sooner than desired. My picking is quite gentle so, specially in the long notes, the dropout gets really noticeable and rough.

I'll take a look at the filtering section to see if maybe I can mod something there to let more of the higher notes be sent to the 4024

I thought of replacing R9 and R10 too... I'll let you guys know if I get good results.

Thanks a lot!!

Hey guys;

I've been using the Glitchee for a while now and purely loving it. Today a friend came by and noticed something I hadn't noticed so far:

The Low and Sub (specially the second) tend disappear when the input signal is not strong enough. When playing more softly and using the octaves in more pronounced settings this becomes a true issue. Using a booster before Glitchee's Input improves this significantly. I don't understand well how the CD4024 works but I was wondering if there's a way to increase the signal being sent to the octave part of the circuit. Maybe lowering R5 would do the trick?

I mean, the pedal is absolutely fantastic, my favorite among all the 80+ pedals I've built so far in my lifetime. If I could calibrate the input sensitivity to the octave part of the circuit it'd be perfect for pick-less soft players like myself :))

Have anyone tried succesfully Tayda's 1mH inductor for VFE switching boards?

In Brazil it's almost impossible to get stuff from mouser... Customs here suck so bad

Does anyone know where to find a 500R On and 500K Off LDR ?
Or at least anyone know if it exists/who manufactures it?

I can't find the NSL-32SR1. Smallbear has the NSL-32SR2 right now but I'm not sure it's the same part.

Looks like the R1 version of the NSL32 is 500R On and 500K Off.

You can probably find a LDR that fits that and just use a Green diffused LED.

Good Luck though.. 

Maybe doing as sugested by @Govmnt_Lacky will work? Has anybody tried it?

BTW how do you know it should be a Green Diffused LED instead of any other LED? (sorry if that question is somehow dumb)

Didn't know about them.. Their projects look amazing, thx for the advice!!

Thanks a Lot for the reply Aaron, this is a great idea indeed

This is Amazing Aaron, thanks a lot for sharing )

Thanks a lot for the Info, Mauman. I forgot to mention in my original post that my version is from 2014. I believe that in my schematic from 2014 that your R5  is my R2. Maybe your R6 (1k) was replaced with 2k so it's my R3?
Kind regards

Hey Guys, I saw a post suggesting to lower R18 to 8.2K or 6.8K in the Sparklehorn  in order to achieve more wet signal at the mix knob. Is there any way to install a kill dry switch?  Maybe bypassing R18 would do so?

Hey guys, I had the wonderful opportunity to A/B the Karate Shop (mine is from 2015) with an original vintage Systech Harmonic Energizer and was amazed to notice how similar the EQ works on both of them.

The gain however sounded a lot different. Original Harmonic Energizer had a much wider gain range (from as subtle as Karate Shop at low gain up to a distortion/Fuzz like tone. The KS almost doesn't distort while the HE gets a smooth saturation about mid day that sounded beautiful. At maximum gain it had a beautiful fuzzy sound

Is there any way to make the gain higher on the Karate Shop? I was thinking I could compare both schematics and work out a solution but that looked risky as the original Harmonic Energizer seems to use a TIS97 Transistor which I assume to be an extinct component. Any Ideas on that?

Kind Regards,

Felipe

I'd love to know how to do that... Seems like a great idea

Just found it. I got not one but four mylar capacitors wrong (10x higher value). I remember this was the first Madbean PCB that I soldered (in 2014) By that time I wasn't used to reading faradays so I mistook decimals. Weird because That's one of 15 pedals from madbean and the only one in which I made such mistake.

Thanks a lot for the support!!