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Messages - Rockhorst

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Open Discussion / Re: Shout out to Brian.
« on: March 11, 2013, 08:25:18 AM »
Just started messing about with Eagle and Brians library. Very grateful!

General Questions / Re: mudbunny
« on: March 01, 2013, 03:27:07 PM »
I built a Russian and Ram's Head spec. They're different, but both very cool. Russian is a bit more aggresive, Ram's is a bit muddier/fuller, to my ears.

Tech Help - Projects Page / RoadRage Questions
« on: February 23, 2013, 07:39:01 PM »
Quick question: I'm designing a PCB for a Fuzz Face type circuit. If I use the Road Rage board to power it (pos. ground with -9V), is the power to the effect already filtered and rev. polarity protected? Put differently: is it still useful/sensible to incorporate those parts on the FF pcb?

Open Discussion / Re: Wampler Plextortion or Plexi Drive DIY equivalent
« on: February 12, 2013, 02:03:55 PM »
Additional notes: the Plextortion is quite a bit more 'modern' and higher gain than themPlexi Drive. Don't know a DIY version of it.

If you're feeling adventurous: the PD is basically 3 cascaded single JFET boosters with a tonestack at the end, the Grapevine resembles the famous BSIAB2 layout with some tweaks. That might be a good starting point to cook your own. The basic recipe is to take two buffered Mini Boosters, tweak the capacitors and add a tone control. So if you happen to have two Mini Boosters around, add an EQ pedal and see if you can get something you like. You could then use the AMZ double booster board as a starting point, you just have to add the tone control between the two boosters or after them, on vero. I've got one of those PCBs that I'm looking to sell. PM me if interested.

Open Discussion / Re: Wampler Plextortion or Plexi Drive DIY equivalent
« on: February 12, 2013, 01:53:13 PM »
The Plexi Drive by Wampler is great for 80s hard rock/metal, think GnR to 80s Priest. I find the Carl Martin Plexitone to be a different pedal, despite the similar name. Quite frankly, I didn't like that one. Similar to the Wampler is the Dirty Little Secret, which was an old Madbean project by the name of Grapevine. I think Haberdasher can get you that one on PCB. There's a few component values you can tweak to make it a bit more aggressive. That pedal also reacts very well to being boosted into even more overdrive/distortion by just about any gain/boost pedal.

I also did a version of the PlexiDrive with some modifications. I've got a PCB of that left, but there were a few (minor) mistakes and I don't have a complete build doc. It is otherwise verified and sounds slightly sweeter than the Wampler.

Best bet: go for a Grapevine and play around with some capacitor values.

Global Annoucements / Re: Holiday giveaway has started.
« on: December 09, 2012, 02:15:03 PM »
Dang, ordered too soon! Guess I'll have to order more ;D

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Green Bean to MP Little Green Wonder
« on: September 16, 2012, 04:00:43 PM »
I've often wondered about the input/output buffers of the TS. Do they contribute to the sound? I think it would at most be a very small contribution. Originally it was also part of the switching system, but the
circuit can be adapted to have a high enough input impedance not to need the buffer (Eternity/SoS). The output of the second opamp is quite adequate at driving the rest of the chain. I see Screamer clones with and without the input/output buffer or just one of them and always wonder why...One of my upcoming projects is a Screamer Lab based on Green Bean...Might make the buffers switchable or leave them out all together...

Mods / Re: Op Amp Switching/stacking?
« on: August 30, 2012, 08:45:43 AM »
@BraindeadAudio: did you ever succeed in doing this? I just had a discussion with a very audio electronics savvy guy, and he is very prssimistic about switchingop amps because adding wire gets you in trouble with capacitances...

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Mosfet boosts and power supplies
« on: July 29, 2012, 09:06:00 AM »
That's EXACTLY the noise I'm talking about, right there in your video. (sorry, I hadn't checked this thread since Octobre 2011). Since the pedals work just FINE with about any other power supply, it makes you wonder what's different in the Godlyke (supposedly it has some filtering built in). The MOSFET boost that

I built is Brian's version/PCB, which also has some power filtering present. Could it be the two 'bite' each other? Can you over filter? If so, which component in the filtering is most suspect?

Global Annoucements / Re: January Pre-orders
« on: January 24, 2012, 06:44:58 AM »
Yay! Weener Wah about to arrive. Now just waiting for the docs to be uploaded, so that I can see what it actually is I'll be building (pondering what that large circular thing on the pcb is for).

General Questions / Re: Two Neutrino Qs
« on: January 05, 2012, 04:34:05 PM »
I just noticed this topic was accidentally started in the wrong section of the board. Could someone move it (to General Questions I guess).

General Questions / Two Neutrino Qs
« on: January 05, 2012, 01:05:29 PM »
I'm in the process of building a (second) Neutrino, the Burst version. I was wondering the following things:

1. The documentation states that D1 and D3 represent two diodes, to implement asymmetric clipping without a jumper. What's the original intent for symmetric clipping: one or two diodes in each direction? (I know, in the end it's about taste, just wondering).

2. The burst uses a 500k level pot, while the black version uses a 100k (and different electrolytic caps in front of it). What difference does that make? Is it the same as with guitars? (higher value pots pass more highs)?

General Questions / Re: Mudbunny Muff confusion - Civil War specs
« on: October 24, 2011, 08:42:14 AM »
change in subject. I'm new to all of this. Is it ok to use the rubber looking high volt 500vcaps? I have a few. Will they work on this?
Sure, back to subject.

General Questions / Re: Mudbunny Muff confusion - Civil War specs
« on: October 24, 2011, 07:32:11 AM »
the higher the value you put in those positions, the more high end it's gonna cut, simple as that.
Thanks, I had already gathered that though. My confusion stems from the description of the Civil War Muff as 'smooth and bassy' as compared to the parts values which are lower than those of (say) a Ram's Head. I would've expected a higher value. 430 pF is kinda hard to get/make, but not impossible, I just hope someone can share some experiences so I can make more educated guesses.

General Questions / Mudbunny Muff confusion - Civil War specs
« on: October 23, 2011, 02:05:18 PM »
I'm building a Mudbunny and was going for Civil War specs from the descriptions I've read. It should be a bit smoother than a Green Russian. The main difference in specs as listed in the project documents are C2, C5 and C8.

Civil War: 430 pF
Green Russian: 470 pF

I didn't have any 430s, only 470s. I did some more research and that's where the confusion starts. On DIYstompboxes forum I read that higher values (like 560 pF) sound smoother than lower values. That seems to be in contradiction with the Madbean Civil War specs.

Could anyone shed a little light on this?

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