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Awright you beautiful forumites:)

I have finally decided to build up my Kingslayer... I am starting to populate the board as i type. Geez, its been in my drawer for many weeks. Funny how things and inspiration for other stuff can change the order of things. Not necessarily in a bad way though:)

Anyway... i dont really have the patience to try out all possible alternatives when it comes to diod choice for D2-D3 and D8-D9. And also, i dont keep too many alternatives here at hand, but i have a few:

1N914 / 1N4148
1N400X
1N34A
BAT46
AA112
9.1V Zener (never heard of anyone using them as clippers... would i be the first ?)
LED-s of different colors (does color really matter? )
BS170 MOSFET transistors.

...Which setup would you choose from them alternatives?

Cheers

Pretty much a "clean" tube screamer without extra switches/mods n stuff. I started with madbeans open source TS project, (thanx madbean!), kept (only) the assymetrical clippers and replaced in- and output buffers with MOSFETs (BYOC OD2 style).

Most for fun, or maybe to refine my own EAGLE skills, i re-did the pcb design from scratch. If there is interest, i gladly share the EAGLE files (I'm not sure there really is interest though, as its "just another tubescreamer" and the actual design hardly fit in a B-box?)

Nope, no exterior pics this time; its a gift for a friends birthday including some internal joke, and i decided to keep it just for him.

Cheers!

My earlier experience of the Thunderpuss/Jack Orman mosfet boost and Red Llama sais that they make a perfect couple:) ... So i put those two circuits on the same PCB and boxed it.

...also, it feels great to return to square one now n then. So i let the 8 yo kid paint the enclosure. He was done in about 30 seconds. "completed already?" ... "Yes!"... "sure?"... "Yes!" "ok". Simplicity is beautyful.

Cheers:)

Hi folks.

First of all: Thanx to you guys sharing all knowledge on this forum, specifically in this thread: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5866.0

I havent, until this project, paid much attention to the FF-s out there, but ... this time, it actually started down at the pub, where a friends friend turned out to be a complete pedal geek (as a musician, not a designer/building hobbyist), and after some chitchatting he specifically orderred a "ugly fuckin' fuzzface" from me. So... well, i concentrated on his orders, and made it my ugliest so far.  

Hope i don't offend anyone by using the F-word.

**********

There are obviously hundreds (?) of similar PCB-designs out there, but i made my own EAGLE design and etching. it's fun:). AC128 ge PNP transistors, and a MAX1044 voltage converter on board. I didn't bother to order "tested pairs" of FF transistors, but a bunch of different types. The chosen AC128 have fairly low gain and sounds... "creamy" and good.

Cheers

I boxed this one, my version of Jack Ormans MOSFET Boost / Madbean ThunderPuss. The first box i do build for someone else; a friend simply needed a booster.

Cheers!

My latest one. And maybe my simplest so far, yet one of the best sounding things i built. It is the Red Llama. And it felt good to "just put together" (well not really "just") a fairly easy thing after the almost over-ambitious SubCommander:)

For me, the challenge this time was to do the design all the way. From Eagle design to etching etc. It is the second board i successfully etch and drill myself. Very satisfying:)

The enclosure is another story. I first designed it as an etch mask, but after failing big time twice(!), i sanded it down and put it on as a decal.  Yes, "Röd" = "Red" in swedish.

... I really cant thank this forum enough, even though i read more than type; so much help and talented ppl in one place!

Cheers!

Hi folks.

I am playing around (breadboard, simulation...) with the 4049UBE circuit, i have a Red Lama ready to box, and i guess i will build something like the Mysterioso.

As i read the Mysterioso schematic i have a question that i guess is fairly basic, but i dont understand why:

The "9V" input meets "the usual" reversed diod and cap to gnd, and is divided in half for "VB". Also, "9V" connects to a serie resistor to "VR".

Question 1: To me it makes sence/is obvious that the 4049 IC is powerred by "VR". BUT, why is the TL072 IC not fed with the same "VR"? It is powerred by "9V". I dont get the point, even though i guess there is one.

Question 2: The unused half of TL072 (pin 5, 6, 7) has VB connected to its positive input, and then a negative feedback loop. Does this design help to stabilize VB? Or is it just there to not leave the pins unconnected?

Question 3: The unused inputs of the 4049 IC (pin 9, 11, 14) is connected to "VR", and their associated outputs (pin 10, 12, 15) are left unconnected. This is the same design that we find in Red Llama. Is there a reason for this? To me it would be more logical to connect unused inputs to ground, but maybe the circuit feels better if it can "rest in high position" as the (inverted) output will be low?

***

I would really appreciate if someone has the time to answer this!

Cheers in advance
/Bengt

Hehe, thought i could share this. Or maybe entertain you... What is the english word? Faux pah? Slip? Fuckup? Goof?

Well... i just peeled off the well prepaired, well ironed photo paper off my enclosure... next step should be etching... but... well...

Ehh
Hmm
Ehhmmm... How... ehh.. something...is... wrong...ehh..hm.

Well... just to start it over i guess... or take a break

Cheers folks

Hi folks. I just posted a similar thread at DIYstompboxes. I try here too:)

I am fairly new at circuit simulation... and i tend to do all things simultanously... last week i bought a drill for my first home-etched circuit boards as well as finnishing some huge project, and now i am in the middle of simulation...

I have tried out (or given a look at) LTspice (i dont like it), Pspice, 5spice (which i like, but the free version is verrrrry limited) and TINA-TI. I think i have decided to go on with TINA-TI, which seems to be fairly user-friendly and "unlimited"(?)... (even though, when i browse around DIY-forums, LTspice seems to be the most common platform for simulation?)

Anyway; I want to simulate circuits around the cd4049ube chip (as used in red llama and others...). Does anyone of you have a clue how to get this circuit/model up and running in TINA-TI? Anyone has a model? On the TINA-TI download page it sais that "any spice model is fine for TINA-TI", which i read as i should be able to use a model from LT- or Pspice as well.

And - this makes me confused (almost annoyed...) in the "Component help" for TINA-TI, the 4049 circuit is listed. But i cant find how to load it... Maybe this is one limitation for the "free version", that i cant load some circuits that are coverred in the help.

Anyone?



***

And: Would it be a good idea to have a "Simulation" sub-forum on this forum, Madbean? Just a thought:)

***

Cheers
/Bengt

Maybe this subject has been up for discussion before on this forum? I did a short search though.

One of the defacto standard products (?) in DIY-boxing seems to be ALPHA (16 mm) pots. I use them myself as well as other things i got recommended from reading here and on other forums.

But; Are they the "only" alternative? They are rather expensive, and if you search Mouser they have 12000+ (!) different pots. Some of them should be comparable in quality (and of course functionality) and less pricey? Or?

Just to try, with my last mouser order orderred one pot branded BI Technologies ( http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=P160KN2-4QC20B10Kvirtualkey57700000virtualkey858-P160KN24QC20B10K ), and to me it works fine, even though it doesnt feel exactly as good as the ALPHA dito (you know the feeling when u tighten the nut).

Any of you with any opinions on this subject? Anyone using pots that are not ALPHA?

Finally... done. Damm ambitious build  ... almost tired me out.

I still have some tweaking to do, but basically its ready to go:)



...and one during wiring:


... and thanx to user Sigesmundninja, who mailed me some missing resistors back in ... May? I thought i should be ready that weekend......

Cheers!

Arrgghhh... hehe... Cant get a simple (?) task to work as i want...

Somehow inspired by this thread: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2545.0, i started to play around with different components on my breadboard. At the moment hooked up like this (very simplified):

Input--> [Baxandall/"James" tonestack] --> [OP Amp buffer] --> Output.

So far it works well. The OP amp buffer is pretty much exactly this one:
(link to beavisaudio tech pages)

***

Now for my next task: I want to add some make-up gain to this circuit. Can i do that in the same OP-amp stage as i use as buffer atm? I have done a few tries, but not succeeded.

Thanx in advance. Links are welcome too:)

Cheers
/Bengt

Hi folks and mr bean:)

I tend to read and browse here more than I write posts, and one thing i find every now n then here on the forum is the line

"[attachment deleted by admin]"

... it shows up fairly often. For example; i just read through this thread:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2545.0

... and every attached picture is gone. Makes it hard to follow the thread subject.

Is all this intentional? Or were there some forum crash or something before i became a member here?

(...and dont read me wrong. im not complaining, just politely curiously asking...)


Cheers
Bengt

Hi again forum.

First: Thanx to Guitarmageddon, whos threads inspired me to try out some etching. And thanx to Juansolo and Marauder for sharing some very useful info on how to trim this box. And thanx to everyone who has posted a picture of your chunkchunks on here. It is VERY useful to browse around and view how u solved the wiring and drilling etc... I concidered to "simplify" the wirings by interconnecting some pot lugs directly, but giving it a second thought; i dont think it would have been simpler. Or less "messy". So... it turned out the way it is right now.

I chose 2n5457 jfets. I breadboarded a JFET matcher, measured all JFETs and set the trimmers (drain voltages) as calculated from the measured result (always closer to 6V than 4.5V). Plug n play... sounds just great.

A bit poor photo quality (?), but you can see how it looks:) The etching part was fun!

Cheers
Bengt
Sweden

Hey folks. I just finnished this one. I call him BLAHK. Its the slow loris, where i added some "feedback clipping" mods, shamelessly inspired  by (copied) the BYOC "mouse". Sorry for a bit bad photo quality. Ill get my hands on a "real" camera tomorrow, but this will make it for tonite.

Cheers
/Bengt

Hi!

Qustion for madbean himself i guess: I just tried to order the Chunk Chunk PCB. When i come to the checkout page - paypal - it saiz that it is out of stock. I guess that is correct, but as it is not marked as "out of stock" on the projects page, i ask anyway...

And, if its out of stock, is there a plan when u will have it in stock again?

Cheers
Bengt
Sweden

Hi Forum. I guess its correct to ask a question like this under "General". If not, admin, feel free to move it.

The project im soldering on at the moment needs +/- 12VDC. And... i just cant find a wallwart with such outputs (sometimes i AM an internet illiterate, but yea, i cant find them)...

So... question #1 should be: If the product (a +/-12VDC Power Supply) even exists, can someone point it out as a link? Preferably on mouser.com, as i guess i will put my next order to them.

Question #2: I maybe have to build it myself. I have found schematics
on generalguitargadgets (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bipolar_ps.pdf),
and MFOS (http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/index.php?MAINTAB=SYNTHDIY&PROJARG=WALLWARTSUPPLY/WALLWARTSUPPLY.php&VPW=1150&VPH=588)
... and i wont rush for the PCB-s, but can build it up on a piece of perf board. The MFOS design is more complex (among other things it includes a load), so i guess thats the one to go for. Or? Advice?

... and i need to input 12VAC into that circuit. Here i need advice about which transformer to choose. Mouser link, anyone? We have 230VAC in our walls here in sweden. If i not include the transformer to the design, i guess i can go for a 230VAC-12VAC wallwart. That would be the easy/safe way too, as i dont have to deal with 230Volts in that case. On the other hand im not too afraid of that, ive been there before.

So... how would you guys solve it?

Cheers
Bengt

Hi folks. I havent written a word on this forum so far; but has been a registred member for about a month. Very good forum. I have had a few questions on the way, but turned out i never had to ask them; the answers were here allready:)

I really "just happened" to get into this build-your-own-stomp-pedal-thing just recently. I was googling for a new pot for my CryBaby (which i havent touched for... 20 years?), and i ended up buying it from a swedish dealer (moodysounds.com) who also is selling... kits from BYOC and stuff he design himself. I ordered the kit for my first build (a TS clone) together with the wahwah-pot, and since then i have built 4 boxes. Its just ... pure addictive fun:) ...

So; my last one is my first Madbean one. The low rider. Which i simply call the Lö Rider. I am pretty happy with the result. I put those discussed caps for the upper octave on a switch.

I am not completely happy with the tracking, even though im not really sure about what to expect. I think i shall investigate more time and hopefully make it better. Or at least get some deeper understanding of the circuit. Funny is: it tracks perfectly on the tone E (played on seventh fret, 5th string) and everything above, but two frets down, the tone D tracks bad (as well as the tone D played on an open string). Even lower tone, B, tracks good again...

Is there any indepth explanation on this circuit somewhere? Or just a link to somewhere where down-octaving is explained?

Anyway; heres a few pics:) Feel free to notice the eye-catching horrible 470+470+56=1000 nF... And beware, there are two more bricksized caps hidden under the board  ...

Cheers folks... and excuse my swenglish:)

/Bengt
Sweden