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Hi guys, this is not a pedal enquiry, but it's actually something I'd like to lear about to end up using on a circuit.
I would like to drop the "Pot + Cap" tone system on a guitar and replace it with a switch(not sure which). The idea is to drop the potentiometer completely and instead have a 3 position switch(maybe on/on/on or on-off-on?) with two caps.
I'd like to have position 1: No cap( full sound); Position2: C1; Position 3: C2.

Is there a simple way of doing this using a 3 position spdt switch?
Any help would be appreciated.

Just looked at the afterlife comp build doc, which I assume is similar to what you are building. Brian suggest that the NSL32-R3 works well in that circuit and notes it is less expensive than the VTL5C3. A quick google makes it seem like you should be able to get it for less than $4 a pop.  Maybe that would work for you.

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/1590A/pdf/Afterlife2020.pdf

I'm more looking at roling my own. To be using something else, I'd rather find the right LDR and LED combination, and that is what I'm trying to find out about and trying to see whoever has been successful with this.

I thought that the values on light and dark resistance would be less important. But then, we're left with the other parameters of the ldr...at least I know a bit better on how to proceed, I guess.

I forgot to mention that the circuit I'm basing it in is the Diamond Compressor. I have no idea what a homemade optocoupler would behave like in this circuit. For me it would be easy to use LDR's that go from hundreds of ohms up to above 200M matched with a White LED. My concern is what about the other specs, would they matter in that circuit? (The compression is gain dependent).

Thank you guys for all the info.
What do you think about this?

I took new readings from the Xvive VTL5C3 with another multimeter. The on Resisance is spot on but the dark resistance is insane. My multimeter reads up to 200M and while taking the reading, it just stopped reading. This means that when it's dark it measures more than 200M.
Isn't this completely off specs, and if so, how is this a good quality Vtlc5 replacement?

Unfortunately, those are not high resistance enough when off. they should be 10M (don't mind if it's 20M. ALso, I have used a lot of LDR (I believe from Tayda) and they are way of those specs. They hundreds of ohms when on and 200M and above when off.

Thank you, I am aware of this and couldn't really find what I am looking for here, unfortunately.

I'm looking at finding the right parts to simulate a VTL5C3 optocoupler to be used in a compressor.
I wouldn't mind buying these if the prices weren't as high as they are at the moment, and I might need a few.

Has anyone roled out a DIY version of the VTL5C3 that stays close to the specs? If so, which LDR did you use and LED colour and type shoukld go with that specific LDR?

Thank you in advance, hopefully someone can help!!!

By the way, I have opened an Xvive and the LED is Green, diffused. The LDR when on reads 11k and off was more than 30M.

Hi Brian, thank you for responding to this. I do not know much about compressor technologies and I'm becoming aware that there are many ways of designing a compressor circuit. My idea was to make this circuit have the ability to increase it's Ratio from 3:1 to a 4:1 or 6:1, and so on. I understand that, in this case, the compression seems to be in a sort of feedback loop that it is very dependent on the input Gain. I understand now, after your suggestion, how to have a smaller Ratio, but I'm really interested on how to add bigger ratio's for more compression. Is it possible that the Ratio changes as more Gain is applied?

I finished my Rough Cut compressor build and I'm generally happy with it. It fired first time and it does what does well, even though, it would be great to improve on the Ratio of the compression. This leads me to the question, how would one go to change/determine and calculate the ratio of compression on this circuit or any other compressor by any means?

I have attached some pics of the finished build.

Hello everyone. Every time I'm in a pickle, I find it very useful to reach out here for other people's experiences and knowledge.
Having said this I would like to  know what options are out there for an smd JFET to be used as a buffer. It will be replacing an opamp and my aim is for it to be low current draw (what I'm using now is about 0.45 mA, so it should ideally be lower). As it will be a buffer, it should be able to take hotter signals as well.
I thought the mpf102 was the way to go, but it doesn't appear to exist in an smd format.
Hopefully someone can help with some useful information.

Hello guys.

I'm trying to find out what program do you guys use to make the PDF documents with the wiring diagrams?

I need to make a wiring diagram for a project I've made but I've never done the wiring diagram rather than drawing it by hand.
Is there any tutorial video on what program to use and how to use it? Is it possible to doing this using Gimp?

Any help would be appreciated.

So, here we go.
I have been on a quest to mix the two pickups on my bass. Both go through a preamp each and both have a 10k Volume pot at the end. I have designed a simple Summing amplifier to mix them in two ways.
The first time I used a Panning configuration and left the Volume pots out. Because I couldn't find the right type and value of pot(needed 10k center detent with long bush, and could only find a 50k), used the 50k and when in the center position there was too much volume drop. Tried with a 10k and it was great, but I just can't find the right type to use it as an onboard potentiomer. So I tried using 2 Volumes coming from the preamps and mixing them with this circuit. Now the effect is the opposite, it sounds considerably louder when both pickups are full.
Is there a way of using this 2 Volumes configuration where in the middle position the output will be simillar to when only one Volume is on Full?

Thank you in advance.
The Schematic is attached

Or old fashion electrical tape.


Another thing you could do is put some mounting holes on the board and use these. They work very well in my experience.

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Standoffs-Height-Offset-0-6x0-6/dp/B00R4ZT1FY

This will be a commercial product, hopefully, so electrical tape is not an option. There is a mounting hole on the bpard already. But, I feel better if the pcb bottom is coated.

How about Liquid Electrical Tape?

https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD

This looks like what I'm looking for!!!! thank you so much.
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