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heck yeah

same here. the ET apparently also does nothing to stop the UV so all my blue labels of yesteryear are now stylishly purple.

phew! glad I'm not the only one!
no pedals in a year now, not much playing either! Life's just been too much and I can't seem to catch a breath to do anything, pedulz included.
still lurking here though, things will turn around eventually... [emoji1]

i always cut them off. to make sure they are straight and with proper spacing, i stick the legs through a piece of veroboard, three holes in three adjacent strips. i then straighten anything crooked and snip from below.

what they all said, basically...

i'm on a building hiatus as we speak, i mostly lurk around here and buy stuff that's on offer to be used at some point. i know i'll be back and i actually enjoy not knowing when it's gonna happen

i gotta say, while the innards have that classic Rej look, the box seems to have escaped the usual treatment and I for one think it's a damn shame...

i do it on a small breadboard. A led, followed by a 1k followed by a 100kB pot. insert led, twist pot till desired led brightness, measure pot, add 1k
i have a tiny breadboad dedicated to this, with two pots so that i can judge the brightness of two separate leds at the same time (because sometimes even leds from the same batch are sufficiently different in output). not fancy but very efficient and easy to put together and use.

anyone knows how Fairfield does it?

yeah I'm with Mich. All over the place, depending on the application.

when mixing, i go by weight. i use one of those kitchen digital scales that measure down to grams. i put one of the plastic cups you mention on it, reset it to zero, the. pour say 5g of one and 5g of other, making a 10g total. if i accidentally go overboard on the second, i just add more of the first to make them even. even if their unit masses are different, it's such a small difference that i feel i'd make more of an error mixing them from different cups and losing some stuck to the sides of cups. mix vigorously, one big inhale next to the open window, one big exhale directly on ET and presto, no bubbles whatsoever!

ditto!

and Felix, that sounds more like sorcery to me...

why would you have it drip through?

that's what i do. drill, et, redrill. always with a step drill. never a problem. do you tape the holes from the inside before pouring et?

with ET, as with anything pedal related, there seems to be a thousand ways to skin a cat. just look at all the variations in toner transfer process folks are getting. some get amazing results, others (myself included) cant get the damned thing to stick properly literally to save their lives. ET is a whole lot more forgiving (which is why use it exclusively these days) but there are still variations that make if impossible to make one perfect tutorial that would make it a nobrainer (however much does John and Cleggy's come close to that).
you just need to find out what makes it work for you.

i find that no matter how long it cures, if i overtighten the nuts the ET lifts a bit as you've noticed. its not really a lift, more of a wobble but still an aberration and hence visible.

i also found that if you put in the hardware quickly (24 h) and not tighten too much, the washer sticks to ET so retightening the nuts after couple of days doesnt mess up the surface.

worth a try for you Paul, since you seem as impatient as I am ))
good thing with ET is if you mess up, it pulls off in one piece and very little (if at all) cleanup sanding is necessary before giving it another go.