Green Bean - Screamer 808

[Kinki fuzz]

Good old tubescreamer... that's what I say when I play through this thing. I ordered a green bean to replace my old DIY TS that was a little crappy and not reliable enough (one of my first builds years ago!).

The build was smooth and issue free, I tried several clipping diodes and ended up with a standard setup  (1N4148s) for the first pair and LEDS for the other, which sound amazing. I also implemented the "bright" switch, but not the "fat", as I felt it wasn't giving me enough juice for an extra switch.

It seems that the hype on the TS808 is gone today, it feels like boring, old fashioned and mojo-lacking against other drives. But hell, this new build has reminded me that hype is hype and tone is tone, and the TS still does the job as brilliantly as always did. The extra bean options just give you more power. As fricking good as all the unicorns, dragons and minotaurs out there.

The paint, of course, had to be green.

[billstein]

Nice pedal. I agree about how good the TS is. Still one of my favorite pedals.

[pickdropper]

For the fat switch, I sometimes put a pin header on the inside of the box.  That way, you still have the option but don't need an external toggle.

Very nice looking build.

[billstein]

For the fat switch, I sometimes put a pin header on the inside of the box.  That way, you still have the option but don't need an external toggle.

Very nice looking build.

That is a great idea. I've used internal dip switches but this is much easier.

[Clayford]

For the fat switch, I sometimes put a pin header on the inside of the box.  That way, you still have the option but don't need an external toggle.

Very nice looking build.

I will second this:

The 2 of these I've built in the past - I used header for both bright and fat.
RE the hype - one had a request for the burr brown. Side by side, my buddy preferred the 4558 and knew it to be the burr brown. Convinced there was something wrong with the circuit the burr brown was in, I swapped chips between the two for him. He took the 4558 an hour later. 

[Rockhorst]

@Clayford: that was my experience with the Burr Brown as well. They're high end opamps, but we don't want nice pristine sound...we want clipping and a little noise.

@Pickdropper: I don't get what you mean with a pin header. Picture?

[pickdropper]

@Clayford: that was my experience with the Burr Brown as well. They're high end opamps, but we don't want nice pristine sound...we want clipping and a little noise.

@Pickdropper: I don't get what you mean with a pin header. Picture?

Yeah, I have preferred the 4558 as well, but some really dig the BB.  Different strokes for different folks....

Yeah , I'll post a picture of the pin header later.

[Clayford]

You'll want this and these

Then you'll do this:

The left one has the fat engaged. The right one shows a storage position if you don't like it. The same can be done with the bright switch, and you can store the jumper N/S if you like. I personally like to have the bright as a switch like you have configured yours. And before you ask - the blue jumpers came from here They're more expensive, and therefore increase the mojo.

[danwelsh]

just like computer jumpers.....awesome idea man. Nice TS also

[billstein]

You'll want this and these

Then you'll do this:

The left one has the fat engaged. The right one shows a storage position if you don't like it. The same can be done with the bright switch, and you can store the jumper N/S if you like. I personally like to have the bright as a switch like you have configured yours. And before you ask - the blue jumpers came from here They're more expensive, and therefore increase the mojo.

I think I'll be setting up a lot of dirt boxes like this from now on. I don't do a lot of tweaking, I like to find the sound and that's it. This would make the off-board wiring and drilling the box simpler while retaining the option if ever needed. I like it.

[Clayford]

Bill - One could in theory even rig up SPDT switches with a header and 3 pins - DPDT as well with 6 pins and 2 jumpers. after that it kinda gets messy. If you design your stuff, the important spacing req is 2.54mm or .1in to use header. And yes it's awesome for all those switching dirt options. Usually. I however have a hankering for a FKR. That's a Four Knob Rat, with a lot of options. How you pronounce it is up to you. It has invariably too many switches, and a rotary might make it gig worthy and turn it into a Five Knob Rat. By the way there's a TON of great reading there. I dunno what happened to Dano, but I do hope he comes out of hiding at some point. The domain is set to expire very soon( 9 Mar ), and hasn't been reregistered as of yet... might be time to firer up HTTrack and get a local mirror just in case.

[atreidesheir]

another ts lover.  I like the gain for decent overdrive tone.  Not distinctive, but smooth.

[pickdropper]

You'll want this and these

Then you'll do this:

The left one has the fat engaged. The right one shows a storage position if you don't like it. The same can be done with the bright switch, and you can store the jumper N/S if you like. I personally like to have the bright as a switch like you have configured yours. And before you ask - the blue jumpers came from here They're more expensive, and therefore increase the mojo.

Yep, that's what I was referring to as well.  I've also used the right angle version for 1590a builds where I didn't have a lot of enclosure depth to work with.

[rullywowr]

They're more expensive, and therefore increase the mojo.

Precisely!  I love using jumpers and 2.54mm headers.  I have thousands of each from another project I was working on with microcontrollers and they do find their way into my builds from time to time.  Sadly, mine are just black jumpers and therefore don't have the same toAn as your blue NOS ones.

[Clayford]

Sadly, mine are just black jumpers and therefore don't have the same toAn as your blue NOS ones.

Just remember you said that not me.