First time tagboard question

[PhiloB]

I'm a little anal but I flip the strip side image in Photoshop and print it.  I then label columns (A-whatever) and my rows (1-whatever).  You could even then label your stripboard the same with a marker before making you cuts.  I struggle with a little dyslexia and this gives me confidence when there is a lot of cuts.

[Guybrush]

Thanks for all the good advice! Really appreciated.

Unfortunately it's not working properly. I've connected the pot and hooked it up to my test rig and I'm getting a horrible mosquito like whine along with the guitar signal that increases in volume as I turn the knob. I've run a craft knife between the gaps and checked for unwanted solder joins with my DMM and everything seems fine? Does anyone have any ideas what the issue might be?

Here are a few more photos that might help:









Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[hoodoo]

Looks like your cuts are in the wrong places to me. You should have marked them out on the non copper side as they appear in the layout diagram, and you've marked them on the copper side. Have a look at the components that they are located under and you'll see what i mean. Just reconnect those traces and cut the holes in the correct spots and see how you go, good luck, Matt.

[Guybrush]

Thank you but I've tripple checked the cuts and I'm certain they are right.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[hoodoo]

They would be right if the picture was indicating the copper side, it is not. You need to mark these cuts from the non copper, component side of the vero, then turn the board over  and cut the traces where these are. Go to tag board effects and  read their tutorial. Mark the holes with a marker, drill a hole slightly larger than the hole that's already there, and then you will see on the copper side which one to cut. Or, I have been doing it all wrong. 

[muddyfox]

I believe that he realized his mistake and mirrored the entire circuit, holes and all.

[Guybrush]

I believe that he realized his mistake and mirrored the entire circuit, holes and all.

This is correct.

Before I started making holes or soldering I realised that I had to mirror the circuit.

In the photo of the underside of the board the transistor and pot 3 connection are on the bottom right corner.

I'm sure the holes are in the right place :-/

[muddyfox]

I'd try two obvious things first:
- try a different transistor - easy since you socketed
- reflow all solder - maybe there's a bad joint someplace

[flanagan0718]

So looking at you're board vs the layout the cuts are in the correct places. I would try reversing that BS170. This is one of the layouts where IvIark had the diagram correctly labeled. I would also run the tip of your iron between the 9v and ground traces. It looks like you might have a bridge there. I would also swap out that ceramic cap for a Film (not that it makes a difference but just personal preference). When you were cutting for unwanted bridges it looks like you went a little onto the copper traces. This is why I use the iron tip instead. Its a "just in case" factor, that way I don't damage any ground runs. Hope this helps.
-Mike-

[Guybrush]

OK thanks. I have already tried a different transistor and inserted it both ways around but it didn't help.
I've tested between the ground and 9vt joints with my DMM and there's definitely no connection.

I'll reflow the joints and run my iron down the gaps. I didn't not have a film cap to replace the ceramic one with but I'll get some ordered.

Thanks!

Edit: Just to clarify, I am getting audio signal with the effect engaged but is accompanied by a high pitch whine.

As I am getting audio surely this rules out shorts to ground as these cause the effect to produce no signal or buzz (in my experience).

Could it be something to do with my components? I've checked they are all the right values but my electro caps have different voltage tolerances they are:

10uf -  35v
47uf - 50v

[peAk]

Any good tagboard tutorial links?

I want to give this a shot.

[flanagan0718]

OK thanks. I have already tried a different transistor and inserted it both ways around but it didn't help.
I've tested between the ground and 9vt joints with my DMM and there's definitely no connection.

I'll reflow the joints and run my iron down the gaps. I didn't not have a film cap to replace the ceramic one with but I'll get some ordered.

Thanks!

Edit: Just to clarify, I am getting audio signal with the effect engaged but is accompanied by a high pitch whine.

As I am getting audio surely this rules out shorts to ground as these cause the effect to produce no signal or buzz (in my experience).

Could it be something to do with my components? I've checked they are all the right values but my electro caps have different voltage tolerances they are:

10uf -  35v
47uf - 50v

The film cap isn't too important. and the ele's are fine. I would start with the audio probe now and see if you can pin point it.

Any good tagboard tutorial links?

I want to give this a shot.

This site is VERY helpful!
http://www.sabrotone.com/?page_id=386

[peAk]

(((Dumb question alert)))

So this type of tagboard/vero doesn't require etching, correct?

This was why have have strayed away from vero so far because I don't have a laser jet printer for etching.

If I am understanding correctly, this just requires jumpers and drilling/cutting out traces?

[muddyfox]

That's right. You have copper traces already isolated from each other and it's predrilled for you to use as you see fit.

[Guybrush]

Deleted.

Double post (phone issues sorry)