Author Topic: 1590LB pedals  (Read 6859 times)

pickdropper

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #15 on: October 05, 2014, 05:17:26 PM »
Here's the the first try on an LB layout. I'm sure you can guess what it is. This one was for practice, but maybe I'll make a couple.

Looks cool.  Where do the Input / Output jacks go?
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madbean

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #16 on: October 05, 2014, 05:24:04 PM »
Looks cool.  Where do the Input / Output jacks go?

The small ones will fit on the sides, I think and the PCB on top. However, after some more thought this type of layout might be better. Gives more room for the jacks. The pots could go on top or the sides. The DC jack would actually go on the top corner!

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Leevibe

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #17 on: October 05, 2014, 05:51:18 PM »
I suppose it's time for me to spill the beans a bit about how I do the Small Block. The most critical thing about building in the 1590lb is getting everything aligned. It's less space to work in than the 1590a. The other pedals I do, I mark, punch, and drill by hand. The Small Block I use a jig and drill press to get everything right, and I still need to tweak it a bit.

I use the space in the front of the enclosure, between the two screw bosses, to squeeze my board and I have it mounted vertically, hanging from a 9mm pot. I used to use a 16mm pot and had the boards free floating in that same space, enclosed in a length of 1" clear heat shrink tube.

I have the knob up on the face of the pedal, and I set the stomp switch has high as I can get it, which is pretty effective in protecting the knob from being inadvertently turned when the switch is stomped. It works great. I've had success building a two-knob circuit using 16mm pots, again with knobs on the face of the pedal. It was an electra distortion variant with an input volume added.

Using SMT would certainly make fitting everything easier, and mounting the pots on the front of the enclosure, like Brian has done, would open up some options and would offer better protection from accidental knob movement.


Here is what the Small Block looks like on the outside:








and the guts...







No, the jacks aren't touching. I don't know if enclosed jacks could work in there. They need to be able to bypass each other and I don't see it with a 3pdt sharing space. I'm thinking I need to try some kobiconns and a lumberg. Another way to save space would be to use an "outy" power jack. I'm just not crazy about the way they look.

Either way, building in these isn't for the faint of heart. :)




a few more pics...






Stomptown

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #18 on: October 05, 2014, 06:11:01 PM »
I suppose it's time for me to spill the beans a bit about how I do the Small Block. The most critical thing about building in the 1590lb is getting everything aligned. It's less space to work in than the 1590a. The other pedals I do, I mark, punch, and drill by hand. The Small Block I use a jig and drill press to get everything right, and I still need to tweak it a bit.

I use the space in the front of the enclosure, between the two screw bosses, to squeeze my board and I have it mounted vertically, hanging from a 9mm pot. I used to use a 16mm pot and had the boards free floating in that same space, enclosed in a length of 1" clear heat shrink tube.

I have the knob up on the face of the pedal, and I set the stomp switch has high as I can get it, which is pretty effective in protecting the knob from being inadvertently turned when the switch is stomped. It works great. I've had success building a two-knob circuit using 16mm pots, again with knobs on the face of the pedal. It was an electra distortion variant with an input volume added.

Using SMT would certainly make fitting everything easier, and mounting the pots on the front of the enclosure, like Brian has done, would open up some options and would offer better protection from accidental knob movement.


Here is what the Small Block looks like on the outside:








and the guts...







No, the jacks aren't touching. I don't know if enclosed jacks could work in there. They need to be able to bypass each other and I don't see it with a 3pdt sharing space. I'm thinking I need to try some kobiconns and a lumberg. Another way to save space would be to use an "outy" power jack. I'm just not crazy about the way they look.

Either way, building in these isn't for the faint of heart. :)




a few more pics...







Looks pretty spacious in there!  ;D  Seriously though, that looks great inside and out and it looks as trusworthy as any open from 1590A build I've seen! Do you overdrill the jack holes to give yourself a little more wiggle room or does the Jig get you close enough?
« Last Edit: October 05, 2014, 06:13:06 PM by Stomptown »

Leevibe

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #19 on: October 05, 2014, 06:16:16 PM »

Looks pretty spacious in there!  ;D  Seriously though, that looks great inside and out and it looks as trusworthy as any open from 1590A build I've seen! Do you overdrill the jack holes to give yourself a little more wiggle room or does the Jig get you close enough?

I usually over drill the output jack a bit because sometimes it fights with the LED bezel. Once I get through this batch that is already drilled, I will probably go away from the big chrome bezels. They're a pain and they take up too much space.

Stomptown

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #20 on: October 05, 2014, 06:24:35 PM »
I'll have to send you a couple of the Kobicon jacks to try out in there as well. You will be shocked how compact they are. They are really nice too!

Leevibe

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #21 on: October 05, 2014, 06:25:50 PM »
I'll have to send you a couple of the Kobicon jacks to try out in there as well. You will be shocked how compact they are. They are really nice too!

Wow, thanks Jon! I'll take 'em!!

wgc

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #22 on: October 05, 2014, 06:34:11 PM »
Brian, that's some weird smd. ;)

Lee, amazing use of space!

I like the kobicons a lot but they can bend easily and not retain the plug.

Before I got the idea to omit the jacks, I was looking at enclosed jacks that are narrow but they are a bit longer at the thread. I will try to post a pic.
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GrindCustoms

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #23 on: October 05, 2014, 10:17:31 PM »
Looks cool.  Where do the Input / Output jacks go?

The small ones will fit on the sides, I think and the PCB on top. However, after some more thought this type of layout might be better. Gives more room for the jacks. The pots could go on top or the sides. The DC jack would actually go on the top corner!

Really dig that orientation, would make a nice pedal board by having couple of them all inter-locking.

@Leevibe, that's crazy... a while ago i though i was nutz for making a 3in1 1590A or use 4x 16mm pots in 1590A aswell... but you win....! :o
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alanp

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #24 on: October 05, 2014, 10:48:42 PM »
That boost is nucking futs.  8)
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Willybomb

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #25 on: October 06, 2014, 05:52:23 AM »
Oh, this is just bulls**t.

125b is about as small as I ever want to go, forget about SMD or whatever... On the upside, imagine how many effects you can fit onto a pedalboard with those things.

wgc

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #26 on: October 06, 2014, 06:55:12 AM »
Here's the jacks I mentioned earlier. Not sure how durable they are.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/phjs-4/stereo-1/4-phone-jack/1.html
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Willybomb

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #27 on: October 26, 2014, 04:26:56 AM »
I ran into these yesterday... crazy stuff.

http://www.mooeraudio.com/en/Product.asp?PClassID=36

m-Kresol

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Re: 1590LB pedals
« Reply #28 on: October 26, 2014, 05:06:55 AM »
Looks cool.  Where do the Input / Output jacks go?

The small ones will fit on the sides, I think and the PCB on top. However, after some more thought this type of layout might be better. Gives more room for the jacks. The pots could go on top or the sides. The DC jack would actually go on the top corner!

Really dig that orientation, would make a nice pedal board by having couple of them all inter-locking.


+1 on what Rej said. A Zig-Zag alignment would be awesome. Don't know about the DC jack in the corner though. Sounds hard to drill...
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