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Slambox in a 1590a zvex super hard on

Started by eniacmike, July 29, 2010, 11:26:27 AM

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eniacmike

I had this 1590a laying around and after building the slambox board up It looked like I could fit it in a 1590a.  I have never tried this before so it was alot of work measuring, and test fitting. I basically went one hole at a time and test fit as I went along. measuring over and over again.

slambox 1590a next to a hammond 1590B


I am not very happy with this build. The whole time I felt like I was in a kafka novel. Not to mention I'm blind in one eye so my depth perception is non existent. Things are dangerously close to shorting out. The 9v+ is maybe 2 mm away from the mosfet. Also the led leads with power and ground are dangerously close to the tip of the output jack.

I am going to get some hot glue and heat shrink and try to make this thing short proof. It was a funny idea at first but I am not really happy with the results. The assembly was such a pain in the butt that I don't even want to take it apart to paint it.

I think I will leave these 1590a's to malekko. Without pcb mounted jacks and switches it's just not worth it.

pauloman80

Dude, not as bad as you think!  I thought 1590B's were tough to work with when I did my Krankosaurus builds, about to do a few Slamboxes in 1590A's myself soon.  Kudos to you for giving it a go. 

I'll tell you what I did, though.  I searched for and downloaded the official spec sheets for the 1590A enclosure, 1/4" jacks, DC jack, 3DPT switch, a pot and the Slambox PCB so I could create a mockup of the build.  Opened everything up in Photoshop, gave each component a different color and sized it as accurately to real-world dimensions as I could.  Now I've got a fairly accurate drilling template for when I do my Slambox builds.  I'm positive I'll still have some eyeballing to do when prepping the enclosures, but I feel much more confident about it now.

If you want to give it another go I'd be happy to send you the file as a .pdf.  Let me know. 

Honestly, not a bad effort for your first 1590A box, man.  Don't be so hard on yourself.  :)
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Regards,
pauloman80

maysink

Man, you are on the right path! These little buggers are equally frustrating as a painting that refuses to cooperate. I think if you rotate your I/O jacks you'll find some more space to slide the pcb away from the power jack. Might want to elec tape the LED leads, too, as they look pretty close to the output jack--shrink tube 'em next time.

Here's 2 pics of my vero build SHO in a lil' box
[nothing to see here]
-e

maysink

Forgot to add: use this type of power jack to squeeze even more room out of the insides!
[nothing to see here]
-e

eniacmike

I found some of those jacks from philmore that mount outside the enclosure, but they don't fit boss adapaters. i guess there is a different size.

madbean

Smallbear has the DC jacks with external nut with 2.1mm, I think. Also, you can get them at Fry's. They are a must for 1590a builds. You might consider plastic enclosed jacks, too. They are a little longer, but have a smaller profile.



eniacmike





2 coats of "interior paint" generic white
water slide decals
2 coats of minwax polyurethane high gloss

I decided to put the roach on there becuase I felt like I was in a kafka novel (the metamorphosis) while I was trying to cram all the parts into the enclosure. I lined it up so the roaches butt is the LED that burns an amber yellow, and it looks like the roaches hands are on the knob. I used my favorite large mxr knobs with the jim dunlop rubber stopper cover so you can adjust the pedal with your foot.

I ended up cleaning up the inside a little bit and putting electrical tape on the led leads to protect against shorts.


jtn191

Hey if it's small and it works,  it's a good build. Good build

Soup39

On those thinline jacks which is the positive and which is the negative post?

giudis

Soup39, you're talking about Lumbergs?

positive is the most external lug...